Suspension Helix R56 Coilover installation
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Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,159
Likes: 17
From: Under your car
Helix R56 Coilover installation
With a lofty 9 miles on our new R56, we tore apart the suspension to see what it looked like.
The rear stuff is geometrically the same as the R53, with the only major difference being the aluminum trailing arms. There is also a bushing at the bottom of the dampeners that fits into the trailing arm that will be required if you install aftermarket dampeners or coil-overs.
The front is a bit different, with a new subframe geometry, as well as new strut tops (bearings). The big news is that the new strut tops are now camber adjustable (although not much adjustment is available: I would guess half a degree). They are not the same shape or bolt pattern as the 53s, so new camber plate tops will need be manufactured.
The rear swaybar seems to be exactly the same as the R53s. I'll confirm that later today when I try to install one. Rear control arms seem to be exactly the same as well.
While the stuff was apart, we of couse had to try fitting stuff on the car so we went about installing a R53 coilover setup. It's not a direct swap but with a little persuation, we were able to get it done. The biggest problem was fitting the stock swaybar drop links. With the new angles of the subframe, it looks like lowered cars will have an issue of the drop link smashing against the lower control arms. If I were smarter, I would be able to tell if this is true for all lowering springs or just the coil overs that we installed, but the links were too long. I did quick measurements and am pretty sure that the REAR links from the R53 will do the trick. I'll confirm that later as well.
Here's how it sits now, and after lunch I'll play with it some more.
Other interesting notes are that there is no flange after the second cat, and therefore producing a 'cat back' exhaust will involve either cutting and flanging a la BMW aftermarket exhausts, or designing an exhaust with the cat included (yikes).
The rear stuff is geometrically the same as the R53, with the only major difference being the aluminum trailing arms. There is also a bushing at the bottom of the dampeners that fits into the trailing arm that will be required if you install aftermarket dampeners or coil-overs.
The front is a bit different, with a new subframe geometry, as well as new strut tops (bearings). The big news is that the new strut tops are now camber adjustable (although not much adjustment is available: I would guess half a degree). They are not the same shape or bolt pattern as the 53s, so new camber plate tops will need be manufactured.
The rear swaybar seems to be exactly the same as the R53s. I'll confirm that later today when I try to install one. Rear control arms seem to be exactly the same as well.
While the stuff was apart, we of couse had to try fitting stuff on the car so we went about installing a R53 coilover setup. It's not a direct swap but with a little persuation, we were able to get it done. The biggest problem was fitting the stock swaybar drop links. With the new angles of the subframe, it looks like lowered cars will have an issue of the drop link smashing against the lower control arms. If I were smarter, I would be able to tell if this is true for all lowering springs or just the coil overs that we installed, but the links were too long. I did quick measurements and am pretty sure that the REAR links from the R53 will do the trick. I'll confirm that later as well.
Here's how it sits now, and after lunch I'll play with it some more.
Other interesting notes are that there is no flange after the second cat, and therefore producing a 'cat back' exhaust will involve either cutting and flanging a la BMW aftermarket exhausts, or designing an exhaust with the cat included (yikes).
3rd Gear
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
From: Malvern, PA
This is all good stuff I've been waiting to hear. It sucks that the camber plates wont transfer but the possibility of the coilovers is good news, the end link deal doesnt seem like that big a set back.
About the exhaust, that sounds like it going to be a pain. So the new exhaust has two cats, a resi, and a muffler. Knocking some of those off should make some nice improvements, a full turbo back is looking pretty nice.
About the exhaust, that sounds like it going to be a pain. So the new exhaust has two cats, a resi, and a muffler. Knocking some of those off should make some nice improvements, a full turbo back is looking pretty nice.
Thread Starter
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Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,159
Likes: 17
From: Under your car
Okay, more info:
the R53 rear sway bar installs and fits perfectly: no changes needed there. It's actually a little easier installing it compared to the old cars because there's less exhaust shielding and junk to slide the bar by.
The drop links for the front sway bar was more involved: I thought that I could use the shorter ones from the rear of the old car, but discovered, feeling kind of stupid that the ball joints point in the same direction in the back. In the front the drop link ball joints point in opposite directions. So I cut one of the ball joints off of the rear swaybar link (and no, good Dr., I didn't use a Sawzall; I used a cutting wheel
) and welded it the opposite way. Stop groaning you purists, I'll bet money that weld holds for the life of the car: remember that the drop links have mosly longitudinal load, not lateral. It looked like this:
It works excellently and has full range of motion. I still have to play with the heights of the car and corner weigh, but that's for another day. If I get a chance tomorrow, Big Brakes
.
Here she is:
the R53 rear sway bar installs and fits perfectly: no changes needed there. It's actually a little easier installing it compared to the old cars because there's less exhaust shielding and junk to slide the bar by.
The drop links for the front sway bar was more involved: I thought that I could use the shorter ones from the rear of the old car, but discovered, feeling kind of stupid that the ball joints point in the same direction in the back. In the front the drop link ball joints point in opposite directions. So I cut one of the ball joints off of the rear swaybar link (and no, good Dr., I didn't use a Sawzall; I used a cutting wheel
) and welded it the opposite way. Stop groaning you purists, I'll bet money that weld holds for the life of the car: remember that the drop links have mosly longitudinal load, not lateral. It looked like this:It works excellently and has full range of motion. I still have to play with the heights of the car and corner weigh, but that's for another day. If I get a chance tomorrow, Big Brakes
.Here she is:
Turbius Maximus
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,416
Likes: 0
From: Infinity and beyond
ha ha! awsome stuff guys... nice job being hard core about stuff... as you well know... that's what R&D is all about!!
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6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 0
From: Centerville, Ohio
I actually drove the Helix r56 today and all i can saw is WOW. Aside from the Styling shortcomings (Side grilles, and center console), it is an awesome car. it goes like Stink, and handles and rides great. Plenty of power, and it just feels smooth with a bit of harhness.
i can see one of these in my Future.
i can see one of these in my Future.
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