Suspension Springs, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Suspension Pilo Racing Custom Coilovers Coming Soon

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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 04:05 PM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by JeffS
No, but the most expensive typically are.

Some shocks/coilovers are made of steel, which is heavy and rusts.

Very few companies use Stainless. I can't even name one, but I know they're out there.


There seem to be disadvantages to each option. The biggest issues tend to be when unlike materials are used - i.e. aluminum bodies with steel spring perches. Over time, they tend to seize together. If you're worried about it, a coating of anti-seize will help prevent this - of course, it also attracts dirt.

My issue with your question was that it made it seem as if this setup was somehow a new combination. Maybe I'm just reading too much into it.
Nope definately didnt think it was the latest and greatest idea, I just never thought the big buck setups were for heavy street use, let alone northeastern winter use. I definately dont see these being made out of aluminum as a negative, I just think its not realistic to expect them to be "no hassle" for a daily driver in winter months. I imagine everyone as differing opinions on how much they want to mess with their car on a daily, weekly, monthly basis.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 05:36 PM
  #152  
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where did u hear this
Originally Posted by macncheese
I just never thought the big buck setups were for heavy street use,
i do not want to invest if im goin' to run into wear issues cuz im planin' to bolt up a set and forget about toyin' w/them, other than the ride height & occasional cleanin'.........
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 05:56 PM
  #153  
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The housings and parts are all anodized to protect from corrosion. This is not something that you are going to have to go crazy with maintenance. If you wash your car occasionally, just spray off the suspension at the same time. Or go through the drive through. That is enough. This is pretty much hte same with all coilovers
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 06:11 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by MiniPilo

1. I have mot measured the camber, but I know that there is alot of movement. I will measue in the near future.
Any update on this MINIPilo?

???
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 06:30 PM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by Thameth
Any update on this MINIPilo?

???
Waiting on My Camber Gauge to come in to measue Specifics Expected Delivery is next week
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 07:24 PM
  #156  
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I was quoted in this post I see - just wanted to say that we have done no testing at all on these units.

I DO stand behind my testing on the H-Sport springs, and helped (by track testing, auto-x, and street driving as well as rate tests over time) develop them. They are designed to work with the stock set up. They hold up over time, and are not teeth rattling - my guess is that you may have had issues with your shocks, Dan.

I also like the Ledas, despite having to rebuild a set every other year. I have had the same units on my car now for two seasons, and have yet to rebuild them, with no sign of needing to. I can spec everything, the adjustment for the rear is on the side, and rebound and compression can be adjusted independently.

I like the PSS9 a lot too for a street car. They are a bit soft for the track, but very close at full tilt rebound.

My suggestion has always been to avoid the high cost of coilovers for a street car, and make a real change to the dynamics of the car with front camber and a rear swaybar. The compression and rebound of the stock shock is good, and the linear springs work well from the factory as well! Of course, coilovers give you the adjustability for the "look", and they are relatively inexpensive in this case. They also lower the center of gravity, and iwith this application allow you to change the rebound for condition or track.

As for the 400lb springs - is that front and rear? What testing was done to arrive at this setting? We found that pretty serious when develping our units, and that was after trying 10 or so different combinations and rates.

I know we briefly talked about these, but after reading the thread, I am more intrigued Dan. If you would like help on the development front, I'd be happy to. We are doing a lot of development right now with the new swaybar, so the testing could go hand in hand and give you some valuable data that I guess you may be missing right now.

Just let me know!

Thanks,
Randy
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 05:13 AM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by joker
where did u hear this i do not want to invest if im goin' to run into wear issues cuz im planin' to bolt up a set and forget about toyin' w/them, other than the ride height & occasional cleanin'.........
Didnt hear it, that's my own opinion, which may not hold any value to you!

When my employer releases parts, there are 100s if not 1000s of hours of testing insuring the quality of the product. One of those tests is a salt spray test. I did a quick search and only steel shocks turned up. KW has a bunch of info on their site. Their shocks are steel, coated with some sort of stainless steel? Maybe Megan Racing or another aluminum shock manufacturer has these test results available for their coilovers?

Anyway, heres a link.

http://www.kw-suspension.com/en/20_T..._Procedure.php

Again, take my opinion with a grain of salt (no pun intended). I'm not a suspension expert, I'm just familiar with the design and testing of new products.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 06:25 AM
  #158  
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Macncheese,

My last set of adjustable coilovers were constructed with anodized aluminum. I had the option to choose between a pinch type lower adjustable perch or an allen screw type. The pinch type is really, really preferrable for northeast winter salt/sand conditions. I simply coated the threads with some lithium base grease in the fall. I cleaned and re-applied the grease again in spring. You only have to concern yourself with the threaded areas above and below the perch, and obviously, the perch threads.

I always selected underbody wash at the car wash. Never ever had a problem in 183,000 miles.

The allen type adjustable perches will turn a mild-mannered man...er, woman...into an animal come spring, despite generous lubrication!

Hope this helps.

Michael
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 07:43 AM
  #159  
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hey ur right on the money!

....good find Man!
Originally Posted by macncheese
I did a quick search and only steel shocks turned up. KW has a bunch of info on their site. Their shocks are steel, coated with some sort of stainless steel? Maybe Megan Racing or another aluminum shock manufacturer has these test results available for their coilovers?
I do really hope they werk out (Megan's product)
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 07:47 AM
  #160  
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A metallurgy aspect macncheese seems to not be familiar with, is steel, even stainless steel, contain iron, which rusts. Stainless steel contains much higher percentage of nickel, which helps to impede the iron rusting, though it will rust eventually. Aluminum on the other hand, only oxidizes its outer layer of molecules. Aluminum cannot rust, as rust is a self-eating phenomenon unique to iron.

Blurb on HowStuffWorks about Rust:
http://science.howstuffworks.com/question445.htm

Here's a good basic read on the practical reliability of Aluminum: http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Mat...corralumin.htm

That said, Pilo's coilovers are already anodized, a controlled oxidizing, which means they're highly resistant to the environment. I'll take aluminum over steel for corrosion resistance any day!
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 07:51 AM
  #161  
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For what it's worth, I've had H&R and Ledas in my rig, both use plated steel for the coilover bodies and anodized aluminum for the adjustment nuts. I also used anodized aluminum for the camber plates. the above went through at least one NYC winter/road salt bs.


the plating (cad plate) does show some corrosion, but it seems to be cosmetic; the aluminum nuts are fine and the coilover threads fine but gunky. (they must be greased before assembly and that will hold funk) The anodized aluminum parts of the camber plates show wome weathering, but no corrosion. I also greased the hub sleeve/coilover pinch, as that can get agressively tight with weathering. Stainless steel screws into the anodized aluminum camber plates can exhibit some galvanic corrosion; I used antiseize but still got a bit of corrosion. the paint on the front Leda springs was destroyed by the road salts (but not on the rears). I re-painted the springs with an abrasive blast and epoxy paint. My advice would be to use the hose frequently to de-grit and de-salt the underside components.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 08:01 AM
  #162  
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Great words spoken by someone who knows the effects of winter and salt in New York State.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 10:42 AM
  #163  
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For Those Wondering about the spring size. The front is a 6in height x 2.5 in Inner diamater. The rear is a 7in height x 2.5 in Inner diamater.

I am working a couple sources for spring replacements for those that may want a lower front spring rate. I will let you know when I get all of the info.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 11:37 AM
  #164  
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Here is what is going on.

We are talking to the factory to see if we can make a change in the spring rate.

I still like the rates that I have on my car, but it seems that most will want to have it a bit less. We are looking into 280 front and 330 rear. This is not guarenteed, but we are seeing if it still can be done. This may lenghten the presale though because it may add a week or 2 to the manufacturing.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 12:58 PM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by MiniPilo
Here is what is going on.

We are talking to the factory to see if we can make a change in the spring rate.

I still like the rates that I have on my car, but it seems that most will want to have it a bit less. We are looking into 280 front and 330 rear. This is not guarenteed, but we are seeing if it still can be done. This may lenghten the presale though because it may add a week or 2 to the manufacturing.
Would that be added as an option or are you thinking about changing them completely? Wouldn't that throw away all your testing of the 390lb's?

Also,

Have you tracked or Autocrossed with these coilovers yet? How did they do? I know you speak alot in this thread about making the kit good enough for the street but mainly for track use, which is perfect for me since i'm an avid Autocrosser who is starting track events.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 01:03 PM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by Thameth
Would that be added as an option or are you thinking about changing them completely? Wouldn't that throw away all your testing of the 390lb's?

Also,

Have you tracked or Autocrossed with these coilovers yet? How did they do? I know you speak alot in this thread about making the kit good enough for the street but mainly for track use, which is perfect for me since i'm an avid Autocrosser who is starting track events.
It's not throwing away any testing. I have been happy with the results, and the strenght and quality of the components. Because of the tendency of the population of those interested looking for a lower spring rate, We are lightening up the rates just a bit. They will still be balanced out perfectly by the shocks beautifully, and will handle amazing. Again, This is not 100%, but depends on whether the factory can change the spring prior to full completion.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 01:07 PM
  #167  
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Also Pilo,

From this picture:



Is the center point accurate to 0 deg camber? And from there what are the measurements supposed to be? Would those be accurate for setting your camber alignment. (example: each line means .5 deg or 1 deg)

Also with the angle of the camber adjustment (looks like perfect 90deg) what would be the affect on caster? Is the camber adjustment set to possibly keep factory spec caster as you adjust camber? Not sure if any coilovers do this at all or if its possible. But just wondering since you've thought of so many things with this kit.

 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 01:12 PM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by MiniPilo
It's not throwing away any testing. I have been happy with the results, and the strenght and quality of the components. Because of the tendency of the population of those interested looking for a lower spring rate, We are lightening up the rates just a bit. They will still be balanced out perfectly by the shocks beautifully, and will handle amazing. Again, This is not 100%, but depends on whether the factory can change the spring prior to full completion.
But how will this change affect its autox or track worthiness (<yea thats a word, trust me. hehe).

I think if you say the 390lb spring rate is fine then you should wait till it hits the market and people start giving you feed back. If then people complain then change the rates on future kits and offer different springs as options. Then you can offer a street kit and a Sport kit. Or just offer the Sport kit and if people want they can later buy the Street Springs.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 01:23 PM
  #169  
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Originally Posted by Ryephile

Here's a good basic read on the practical reliability of Aluminum: http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Mat...corralumin.htm

That said, Pilo's coilovers are already anodized, a controlled oxidizing, which means they're highly resistant to the environment. I'll take aluminum over steel for corrosion resistance any day!
Thanks for the lesson on rust!?

From your link:
The corrosion resistance of aluminum depends upon this protective oxide film. which is stable in aqueous media when the pH is between about 4.0 and 8.5. The oxide film is naturally self-renewing and accidental abrasion or other mechanical damage of the surface film is rapidly repaired. The conditions that promote corrosion of aluminum and its alloys, therefore, must be those that continuously abrade the film mechanically or promote conditions that locally degrade the protective oxide film and minimize the availability of oxygen to rebuild it.
The acidity or alkalinity of the environment significantly affects the corrosion behavior of aluminum alloys. At lower and higher pH, aluminum is more likely to corrode but by no means always does so. For example, aluminum is quite resistant to concentrated nitric acid. When aluminum is exposed to alkaline conditions corrosion may occur, and when the oxide film is perforated locally, accelerated attack occurs because aluminum is attacked more rapidly than its oxide under alkaline conditions. The result is pitting. In acidic conditions, the oxide is more rapidly attacked than aluminum, and more general attack should result.

JLM already explained how the road salt's abrasion has destroyed the painted finish on his shocks, the same will happen to a cosmetic anodizing (All anodizings are not created equal). Furthermore, the high concentration of chemicals used here in the northeast doesnt exactly create pH neutral water!


Please note the first chemical noted on "corrosives to avoid."

http://httd.njuct.edu.cn/MatWeb/mat-envs/aleee.htm

and:
http://www.dow.com/calcium/

I'll agree that in most situations, aluminum is preferred to steel but this is a unique situation, an exception to the rule. This is in no way an attempt to discredit the product, just a response to a question about daily driving on coil overs in NJ. Just one of the small minuses to living in the best state in america

 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 01:35 PM
  #170  
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Well, for those that want to wait, I drive nj everyday, rain snow you name it. The Mini is my Every day Car, Weekend Car, Race Car. I would not put a product on my can that can not hold up to a crazy NJ Commute as well as a Race.

From the picture, The 0 Is Stock Camber Setting.

What is going to happen is I can offer a Sport Upgrade Package for a reasonable cost for those that want it more agressive. I believe that this is the best way for me to market the products.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 02:14 PM
  #171  
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Thanks Dan! Those are pretty small to begin with...one benfit of 4" of travel.

Michael
Originally Posted by MiniPilo
For Those Wondering about the spring size. The front is a 6in height x 2.5 in Inner diamater. The rear is a 7in height x 2.5 in Inner diamater.

I am working a couple sources for spring replacements for those that may want a lower front spring rate. I will let you know when I get all of the info.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 04:08 PM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by MiniPilo
Well, for those that want to wait, I drive nj everyday, rain snow you name it. The Mini is my Every day Car, Weekend Car, Race Car. I would not put a product on my can that can not hold up to a crazy NJ Commute as well as a Race.

From the picture, The 0 Is Stock Camber Setting.

What is going to happen is I can offer a Sport Upgrade Package for a reasonable cost for those that want it more agressive. I believe that this is the best way for me to market the products.
Awwwww but what about us who were going to buy it at 390lb now no problem and now we have to pay more?
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 04:20 PM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by Thameth
Awwwww but what about us who were going to buy it at 390lb now no problem and now we have to pay more?
Anyone that wanted in the presale at the higher suspension rate will get the upgrade springs for free when they come out. I think that is only 1 person though.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 07:46 PM
  #174  
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Originally Posted by MiniPilo
Anyone that wanted in the presale at the higher suspension rate will get the upgrade springs for free when they come out. I think that is only 1 person though.
**plus ME!
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 07:59 PM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by MiniPilo
Anyone that wanted in the presale at the higher suspension rate will get the upgrade springs for free when they come out. I think that is only 1 person though.
Excellent!! Thanks Dan.
 
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