It says a lot about these coilovers. Thats what this thread is for, good info. Not arguing about prices. I can live with cutting two holes, that you can't see when the rear seats are up so I can adjust the rear shocks. My mind is made up! Now all I have to do is sell one of my good mountain bikes.

 

I'm always glad to share real world experience.....and even happier others do the same so I can take advantage.

I may go that route also, although I've already removed the rear seats so the hole would be visible anyway. I'm waiting to see if Megan Racing Steve (with meb's help) comes up with something re that flexible rear adjuster extension.

 

...actually, there are two holes to drill above each rear damper. And then, you can use a 2.5" hole saw to create access to each one - these two holes are not visible when the seats are up.

Drilling the two holes just above each rear damper; re-install the stock bushing and steel dowel that will be re-used. Use this dowel as a guide for the drill. Try to get a drill bit that is the same diameter (a hair smaller) as the opening in the dowel. If you use a bit that is too small your hole might be off a little...like mine. Then, you'll need to use an abrasive bit the widen the hole. either way the variation in time is only ten minutes.

You will also need to purchase longer allen keys. Get the 'T' handle type. By two 6" long T handle allen keys and cut these to size. Grind the ends of the allen keys after cutting carefully and perpendicular to the lenght of the allen
key. After all the hard work, adjusting is painless.

Another great day at the track yesterday - stock rear bar and the car rotates and throttle modulates very easily. Set at 9 from full hard front and rear. I was assigned an instructor as this was my first time with BMWCCA. I was signed off after two sessions. However, the instructor drives a well modified EVO and he was "shocked" by how well the mini rotated and how well it handled. "I can't believe how well this thing hooks up." ...despite something broken in the front end...very loose jiggling from somewhere. Oh well! That's racing!

 

Two holes and a 2.5" hole saw? Why are you talking about a 2.5" hole? Can't I just drill a small hole down into the area where the top of the shock sits thats big enough to slide a long allen wrench into?

Did you remove the shock and drill up or drill down from inside the car? I haven't done mine yet but will soon.

 

...drilled up fromt underneath the car. Use the stock flange, bushing and guide pin as a guide for the new holes. The 2.5" hole allows acces to the right side if you have a HK sound system; the amp is in the way. So when you remove the side panel you will not be able to reach any allen key. If you do not have an HK sound system, don't worry about the 2.5" hole.

 

meb's talking about a 2.5" hole cut through the plastic side panel so you can reach through with your allen wrench in front of your HK amp (if you have one) rather than having to remove the amp to get it out of your way every time you want to access the area from the rear access panel.

 

Yes, that! I was in NYC all night...I'm not firing on all cyclinders. Thanks kurvhugr

 

You might want to consider doing this -- even if you don't have an HK amp in the way -- on both sides. It's pretty tough for me to get my big hands in there far enough to turn the allen key, and when I do things are so cramped that it makes it hard to feel the notches. I think Megan are getting ready to sell flexible adjuster extensions, but if they don't I'm going to do the hole saw surgery -- on both sides.

 

If you remove a little of the foam insulation from inside the area where the adjuster is accessed, you will have much more room and can easily reach and feel the detents in the strut adjuster. It is not a big deal to make the rear adjustments.