That is information that Can be provided when you purchase the Kit.

 

We are using these springs based on over 7000 Miles of Road Testing. We are loooking to build an agressive setup that is capable of being street driven, and are very happy with the results and setup. JLM, if you are looking to buy, you can contact me directly about your concerns on spring rate, and I can talk to you about them

 

there seems to be a wide range of spring rates is use, so my question is, did you try other rates?

some advice and info from Webb, for example. You can see the wide variation and the 350lb max reccomendation:

"Here are some rates and prices from a well known site :


H-Sports
195 lbs/in front
300 lbs/in rear
$225

H&R
260 lbs/in front
260 lbs/in rear
$240

PSS9
320 lbs/in front
340 lbs/in rear
$1750

Leda
combo
250 lbs/in front
350 lbs/in rear
race
350 lbs/in front
500 lbs/in rear
$1900

Stock
225 lbs/in front
220 lbs/in rear


I have tested most of the others as well, but I'm at home and don't have the info right now. I like the H-Sports a lot - for several reasons. If you take a look down the page about 3/4 of the way, I have explained why here:

http://www.webbmotorsports.com/faq.php


I noticed the drops you have listed, and I can say from personal experience they aren't quite accurate. There are differences between cars, options and spring manufacturing runs. Give me a call for speicific info.

The aftermarket springs, other than on coilover kits, are progressive. What that means is that for each inch of compression, the rate increases. This allows for a nice ride under standard loads, and firmer rates as the car is loaded more (like in a turn). The above rates are more of an average than a true rate, since they are progressive.

For full race set ups on the coilovers, I use rates of 350 lbs/in and 500 lbs/in respectively. Those are linear rates, and would be a killer on the street.

Hope that helps!
Randy"

 

hey Randy, where are u gettin' 1750, on the Pss9's thats a bit high!??

& on the Ledas, why in the world would u even bother w/them since they have had a butt load of quality issues!?

On the H-sports that seems pretty kool for a street car, not race!

on the h&r set why are the rates the same front to rear? ? not really feelin' that!

__u have stated that u have done some test's urself where did u feel most comfortable, both street & race!?!?!?!

so are u not feelin' Dan's research on these?

last but not least, wuz up w/ur web page d0oD? it does not werk....

 

Thanks for the information that you have.

Though none of these setups have been used with the combination shock and spring that I have, so they are hard to compare just on numbers alone. The setup I have, as I have stated has a better ride quality then the H-Sports, and they are all the waw down in the sub 200 in/lb area. It is more about the combination of the shock and spring then the number associated with the spring alone.

 

hey Dan? could u say who's strut's/shocks u will be usin' on ur set-up...

 

The parts being used are built by Megan Racing

 

okay! i see, these are actually totaly new parts, not from another manufacturer and then re-tagged sounds good...will these hold up in the winter months?

 

This kit was designed by my self and Megan Racing. The Camber Kit is a custom Kit for the Mini Specifically for these Shocks and springs.

These will actually be really good for the winter because you can actually raise the height of the car up even above stock height :-) This is what I plan to do here in NJ. With the Nasty Pot Holes, and lowsy plowing done by my town, I will have my Blizacks on, and passing all the Subbies on the road

 

i wuz actually referin' to the strut bodies (as far as finish), will they survive a good couple of winters, chemicals/salts...ect.

most that i have seen dont do to well around here cuz of the winter month's!
___
know what i mean? :O)

 

I have been looking into other cars that Megan already makes, looking for failures. I have yet to come across any. The Shock is Fully covered with a Rubber boot, so that will protect it from the elements on the top. The rest is set up to drain any water that get's into the threads or cups that exist.

 

Pilo,
I think he's referring to galvanic corrosion. Aren't they aluminum bodies with machined aluminum mounting pieces? I'm pretty sure there will be problems in areas that use salt if they're not meticulously maintained. If they're stainless, ignore this post.

 

They're no different than the tens of thousands of other products out on the market using the same materials. I'd rather have the lighter aluminum that steel any day.

 

They are made of aluminum, That is the main reason that they are much lighter then the stock ones.


The Camber plate is partially made of stainless though for anti Corosion, and strength

 

Weak

 

So all coil overs are made of aluminum? I definately see the advantage to race setups and such being aluminum but for winter driving in the northeast, I'd guess that there are stainless or atleast steel versions to be had.

I'm no suspension expert but I know salt ruins aluminum components if they're not properly cared for.

 

I can give all the numbers now, but they are meaningless to you unless you have the Kit. I am providing information regarding the how to on the rear adjustment ****, Diffrent height settings, and Damper settings.

Regarding the Aluminum Every thing is Black or Red Anodized.

 

Dan,

w/o having to go back and read this whole thread, will these coilovers last for my day to day driving? (light, but abusive, northern CA roads/highways). And pricing?

 

Yes,

They will Last. I drive 50+ miles a day, plus alot more on the weekends. I have over 7K on these, and when pulling them off my car, they are in perfect condition still. Megan Racing Makes Coilovers for several cars, so this is not just a First Off type of suspension. They used what they know about the Suspensions on other cars, and I gave them my info on the mini. From that we came up with the first prototype suspension, that is on my car. There was 1 minor change that we made (The length of a bolt) and now it is perfect. In Short, This is a time tested, solution now available for the Mini cooper.

Regarding the Cost.

Retail is 1095. If you want to join the pre-sale, the cost is 1009 or if we get 5+ in the presale it is 950.

 

Is Megan Racing ISO certified?

 

No, but the most expensive typically are.

Some shocks/coilovers are made of steel, which is heavy and rusts.

Very few companies use Stainless. I can't even name one, but I know they're out there.


There seem to be disadvantages to each option. The biggest issues tend to be when unlike materials are used - i.e. aluminum bodies with steel spring perches. Over time, they tend to seize together. If you're worried about it, a coating of anti-seize will help prevent this - of course, it also attracts dirt.

My issue with your question was that it made it seem as if this setup was somehow a new combination. Maybe I'm just reading too much into it.

 

Hey I just wanted to know if you actually provided that data. I wouldn't be thrilled if I had no starting point references. I also wanted to know if it's a pain to precisely determine ride height. What's annoying is the motorcycle world has all the tricks to set up forks and shocks with ultimate precision (with far greater adjustability, rebuildable with the ability to change valving and springs to suit personal preferences, remote damping adjusters in case the shock is hard to get to, ability to use different oil weights...the list goes on), but the car world you have to guess at everything and most "high-end" coilovers don't even allow for compression damping changes via oil valving click stops...WHICH IS JUST AS IMPORTANT (if not more) AS REBOUND!!! What you want is a soft enough spring and the ability to control it with compression/rebound adjustability and spring preload. That way you can get the car to behave over bumps first and foremost. To use a stiff spring rate and pre-determined valving to control compression just means the ride is harsh across all conditions. Once you get the suspension to behave, then you turn your attention to cornering. That's my approach anyway.

Well, I need to make the best decision I can based on what's available, and I'm seriously considering your shocks as they seem to be big bang for the buck. I just want them to be versatile and compliant enough for everyday driving (semi aggressive) and still corner like it does now. I also want it to be quiet over surface irregularities. This is what you can tell me before I send my cash your direction. Thanks in advance. Sorry for the soap box speech.

Cheers and thanks!

 

Because I have access to a stock MCS, and My MCS, I can give the needed Measurements to set the car up stock, and a recomended setting. Though with the diffrent weights of the diffrent cars, some adjustments may be needed. All measurements will be taken from the top of the shock body down for the easiest setup. The Rebound / Compression has 32 clicks that are felt while turning the adjustment ****. so I can specify 7 clicks softer, and you can tell exactly how far that is.

 

...but i think even if they are stainless they will corrode/seize cuz the threaded sleeves need to be stainless as well

***JeffS KW's & FK n. america have a SSteel set**

 

Any update on this MINIPilo?