Suspension $1500 to make a stock mini as track-able as possible.
$1500 to make a stock mini as track-able as possible.
what is the best use of $1500 in making a stock mini cooper (not S) trackable? i am solely concerned with handleing, don't care much about making it faster.
what i was thinking:
-koni shocks "yellows"
-H-Sport Springs
-27 mm front and 25 mm rear (middle setting) antisway bars
-BF Goodrich g-force T/A KDW 2 tires
how would aftermarket end-links or control arms affect the handleing?
any suggestion?
thanks in advance.
what i was thinking:
-koni shocks "yellows"
-H-Sport Springs
-27 mm front and 25 mm rear (middle setting) antisway bars
-BF Goodrich g-force T/A KDW 2 tires
how would aftermarket end-links or control arms affect the handleing?
any suggestion?
thanks in advance.
Originally Posted by koenner1
what is the best use of $1500 in making a stock mini cooper (not S) trackable? i am solely concerned with handleing, don't care much about making it faster.
what i was thinking:
-koni shocks "yellows"
-H-Sport Springs
-27 mm front and 25 mm rear (middle setting) antisway bars
-BF Goodrich g-force T/A KDW 2 tires
how would aftermarket end-links or control arms affect the handleing?
any suggestion?
thanks in advance.
what i was thinking:
-koni shocks "yellows"
-H-Sport Springs
-27 mm front and 25 mm rear (middle setting) antisway bars
-BF Goodrich g-force T/A KDW 2 tires
how would aftermarket end-links or control arms affect the handleing?
any suggestion?
thanks in advance.
In my area about $300 would get you personal instruction all day and lots of track time.
H-sport springs help with handling.
adjustable 19mm rear sway bar on middle setting would help
205/50-15 Track tires on stock MINI 15x5.5" rims would be good- Toyo Ra1 or Avon Tech R or even the old Falken Azenis Sport Rt-215
Endlinks are not necessary
Rear lower control arms help to adjust rear camber but that is only if you lower your suspension and find the ride is adversely affected. Rear camber is not as crucial as front camber.
Originally Posted by koenner1
what is the best use of $1500 in making a stock mini cooper (not S) trackable? i am solely concerned with handleing, don't care much about making it faster.
what i was thinking:
-koni shocks "yellows"
-H-Sport Springs
-27 mm front and 25 mm rear (middle setting) antisway bars
-BF Goodrich g-force T/A KDW 2 tires
how would aftermarket end-links or control arms affect the handleing?
any suggestion?
thanks in advance.
what i was thinking:
-koni shocks "yellows"
-H-Sport Springs
-27 mm front and 25 mm rear (middle setting) antisway bars
-BF Goodrich g-force T/A KDW 2 tires
how would aftermarket end-links or control arms affect the handleing?
any suggestion?
thanks in advance.
- decent brake fluid
- good brake pads
--> go drive
If you absolutely HAVE to spend more money my order would be:
- front camber plates
- better tires (and not the KDW's)
- better shocks
- rear swaybar
- better springs
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Handling improvements
I agree with the "first go to school" comments, I went to a Phil Wicks last year and a club school this year. It gets you lots of track time, with instruction, and critiquing.
What kind of track days are you considering. If you just want to play on the track, then change what you like.
If you plan to compete in ANY group, be it SCCA, NASA, MWC or others, get out the rule books first.
I compete with two groups in STOCK class with my MINI. Some of the mods allowed by one group (Cold air intake) are not allowed by the other (Sway bar and tires), and vice versa! Once you get pushed out of stock class, you can spend lots of money and still not be competitive.
I like Midwest Council of Sports Car Clubs, because I get timed runs on race tracks with out a roll bar in the car. If I start modifying the car, I could end up in a class where I need a cage, 6 point harness, etc.
http://www.mcscc.org/
Happy Motoring!
John,
Northern Illinois
What kind of track days are you considering. If you just want to play on the track, then change what you like.
If you plan to compete in ANY group, be it SCCA, NASA, MWC or others, get out the rule books first.
I compete with two groups in STOCK class with my MINI. Some of the mods allowed by one group (Cold air intake) are not allowed by the other (Sway bar and tires), and vice versa! Once you get pushed out of stock class, you can spend lots of money and still not be competitive.
I like Midwest Council of Sports Car Clubs, because I get timed runs on race tracks with out a roll bar in the car. If I start modifying the car, I could end up in a class where I need a cage, 6 point harness, etc.
http://www.mcscc.org/
Happy Motoring!
John,
Northern Illinois
Couldn't agree more.
Originally Posted by JeffS
- decent brake fluid
- good brake pads
--> go drive
If you absolutely HAVE to spend more money my order would be:
- front camber plates
- better tires (and not the KDW's)
- better shocks
- rear swaybar
- better springs
- good brake pads
--> go drive
If you absolutely HAVE to spend more money my order would be:
- front camber plates
- better tires (and not the KDW's)
- better shocks
- rear swaybar
- better springs
Originally Posted by JeffS
Recommending R tires for a newb is a bad idea. Bad enough that many organizations won't let beginners run with them.
Street tires provide lots of audible warning before letting go. R's, well, don't. Not to mention the fact that all the get-loose drama happens at a higher speed cause of their superior traction.
Originally Posted by JeffS
- decent brake fluid
- good brake pads
--> go drive
If you absolutely HAVE to spend more money my order would be:
- front camber plates
- better tires (and not the KDW's)
- better shocks
- rear swaybar
- better springs
- good brake pads
--> go drive
If you absolutely HAVE to spend more money my order would be:
- front camber plates
- better tires (and not the KDW's)
- better shocks
- rear swaybar
- better springs
Originally Posted by blalor
$1500 will buy a lot of driving instruction. Use it to upgrade the most important and exciting part: you!
Spend you first $1500 on professional instruction
Brakes are a must from my track experince. By one of the Phase One kits from Randy, or Pilo or Helix or another good vender. Ligher, shorter wheels with street perfomance tires. Big rear bar, and spend the rest on track time (with guidence).
Wes
Wes
brake flud to superblue or motuls... get new pads, like DS3000 for the front and 2500 for the back (swap 2500 for the street, you can use 2500 on the track as well)
sway bar is nice, but on some tracks it may not be necessary... and sometimes even hurt you more...
defenitely upgrade tires... like S03s or T1R.... good street tire will get you plenty of grip, and tell you when you are going over the limit
finally, driving instruction... and a helmet if you do not have one yet
sway bar is nice, but on some tracks it may not be necessary... and sometimes even hurt you more...
defenitely upgrade tires... like S03s or T1R.... good street tire will get you plenty of grip, and tell you when you are going over the limit
finally, driving instruction... and a helmet if you do not have one yet
Cheap brake upgrade not mentioned yet.
Get the metal caliper bushings $120. With some pads, better fluid, and if you want SS lines, you'll have brakes that actually work! Bump up the safety before the power....
Training.
Braking.
Handling.
Power.
This way you never have the car able to commit much more than it can deliver, with the training you'll be able to use the car well, braking will make it safer. Handling you can carry more speed, so the brakes come in handy,
Power, when you are a good driver and can handle the car well.
Actually, my Mustang is harder to drive, because it has enough power to go ***-backwards if you aren't careful! An unmodded Mini the gas pedal can pretty much be used as a switch and you won't get into (much) trouble.
Matt
Training.
Braking.
Handling.
Power.
This way you never have the car able to commit much more than it can deliver, with the training you'll be able to use the car well, braking will make it safer. Handling you can carry more speed, so the brakes come in handy,
Power, when you are a good driver and can handle the car well.
Actually, my Mustang is harder to drive, because it has enough power to go ***-backwards if you aren't careful! An unmodded Mini the gas pedal can pretty much be used as a switch and you won't get into (much) trouble.
Matt
I echo everybody's sentiments that you put the money into yourself i.e. do as many driving schools as you can afford. I've been doing schools (and now open track) for 10 years--my 05 Cooper is bone stock except for front brake pads, fluid, and lighter wheels with good street tires....in time you'll be able to keep up with most cars through the turns and it's a great feeling.
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