Has anyone installed (or considered) the tubular F. control arms from M7?
-Pricy bit at $650 and nominal 3 1/2 lbs. unsprung weight loss.
-Advantages, concerns (strength and durability of a welded tubular design) as opposed to the app. 7 lb. OE stamped unit?
-Who/what is the market for this?
-Would a 3 1/2 lbs U.S. weigth loss on the front really be noticable? (Steering response?)
Thanks for the input

 

Mark,

I have about 6,000 miles on my M-7 front tubular "A" arms with the Delrin (not aluminum) bushings. My main reason for purchasing these "A" arms was to make it possible to remove the compliance of the front "A" arm rubber bushing from the steering equation. The version of the "A" arms using the stock stamped "A" arms and the Delrin bushings were not available at the time. I have noticed that on high G turns, with the new "A" arms and Delrin bushings, there is no need for a small second order correction at the steering wheel after the suspension "sets". In other words, the car goes where you steer it, period. So far, there have been no problems from from squeeks, clunks and other noises from the front bushing assembly. The "A" arms show no evidence of metal fatique on visual inspection.
For me, the expense is worth it. The reduction in bushing compliance in the front, from the M-7 "A" arms and Delrin bushing assembly, and in the rear, from heim jointed rear upper and lower control arms, has added quite a measure of stability to the transient response of the chassis. The car, overall, feels like it rides on rails. Necessary? No. Nice? YES ! Love it on and off the track. I just sit on my line and power on and on and on.
Some installation care is necessary. Hope that this helps.

Regards,
John Petrich in Seattle

 

John , thanks for the feedback!
-What are the install concerns and what are the your other suspension components?
Thanks again.

 

Mark,
The installation is simple and fast, but, there is only ONE way to get it all to fit. What I am trying to say, is that the stock "A" arm with the very floppy rubber bushing allows some flexibility in the installation sequence for the assembly because the components can be "tweaked" around a little. The M-7 tubular "A" arm and Delrin bushing is super rigid and there is no wiggle room. The assembly sequence is as follows:
1) Remove the stock "A" arm assembly in toto.
2) Remove the stock ball joints and keep them oriented L vs R and inside vs outside to facilitate re-installation. Removal is a super breeze with a small hydraulic press. Removal with a impact wrench or fork or BIG hammer doesn't asways work. Use the press.
3) Loosely assemble the ball joints and Delrin bushing on the "A" arm.
4) Offer up the loosely assembled "A" arm assembly straight up from below and start the bolts in the bushing then the two ball joints.
5) Once everything is aligned, tighten everything up, checking for proper torques and you are done.
6) Align the front end. At my re-alignment, there was essentially no change with the new "A" arm in place. Lucky?

Regards,
John Petrich in Seattle

 

Hi John. We've chatted before about engine bush combinations... you might remember. I've been contemplating this as well. With a press, as you said, what would you say is the total install time for someone working alone at home? I was under the impression that this is not a DIY for many, but you sort of made it sound like it is fairly doable...

Also, have you considered upgrading your MCS engine mount to the 04 style? If you haven't seen one, take a look. After speaking with Randy, we can do so...

Thank you.

 

Tony,

Remember you well. Thanks for the Y2004 engine mount tip. The total time is about 4 hours if you are organized.

Regards,
John Petrich in Seattle

 

Have fun with the ball joints

 

Mark and TonyB,

Was in a rush yesterday and forgot to speak to the need to lower the front subframe as part of the process necessary to access the bushing mount bolts. The total time to perform the project should be only 4 hours or so. I was disappointed that the job went so quickly. Love working on MINI.

The first step in the installation process is to raise and securely support MINI off the ground as high as is practical. The next step is to remove the bolts holding the subframe to the chassis. As I recall, there are two towards the front and the 4 that secure the rear subframe mounting plate under the drivers and passengers seats. It is not necessary to remove any bumper hardware. It is necessary to remove the steering wheel to steering gear bolt at the U-joint so the subframe can drop. Actually, it is rather easy to get at and it has a very coarse, I think square, male to female connection. So, refitting the steering wheel to the steering box and getting the correct steering wheel alignment is a no brainer. The sub frame does not drop on it's own accord, so underneath support is not necessary. In fact, it is necessary to pry the subframe down with wooden pry levers. Check in the engine compartment to make sure that the power steering fluid resevoir is free from the firewall mounting and has enough clearance to slide down the same amount that you pry the subframe down. The resevoir is connected with heavy hoses to the power steering assembly and comes out with the subframe when the subframe is replaced or removed. These steps are addressed in any of the "How to" sections that give instructions for replacing the front sway bar.

Some else made an ambigous post about the ball joints. I assume that they might have had trouble like I did with any of the methods of ball joint removal that don't involve a hydraulic press.

Regards,
John Petrich in Seattle

 

I've removed my subframe completely two times and have a suggestion or two.

rather than pop the hub ball joint tapers in place, you can remove the two bolts holding the upper part of the joint to the hub and remove the entire ball joint intact with the subframe/contol arm.

you will have un-equalled access to some therwise very difficult areas...like the oil filter housing bolted to the block. I removed mine and added an oil pressure Tee for a remote pressure sender and tapped the side boss for an oil temp sensor.
this is the time to swap out your front sway bar.

the bolts securing the control arms need about 100ft-lbs torque and are a ***** if you don't have clear access. You might as well drop the subframe completely if you have it loose enough to pry down, but use a jack.

 

Thanks for the detail John! I too was told that Randy's front sway bar How-To would be helpful, and I even figured that I might want to do that bar at the same time...

 

in the next 2 weeks, I am dropping my car off at M7 to have my car set up with springs, drop ties, sway bars, tubular control arms, nitrous, cam , heads port/polish , bigger exhaust valves, bigger throttle body, 400cc injectors, borla exhaust, aluminum flywheel, clutch/pressure plate, 15% pulley... thinking about the front spoiler and rear diffuser to round it out.... AS SOON as I get back from vacation I will let you know how it runs......

 

I don't think I've heard of anyone doing so many mods at one time. Peter will hook you up!

 

Wow...that car will be a whole new beast I'm gonna guess you're taking it over to steves? Those guys will hook your car up...be sure to take pics

 

I am dropping it off at Peter's house and he is taking it into the valley to their shop. I will be on vacation til the 12th of Sept. Still debating on brakes and wheels, if anyone has ideas please feel free to share...