Suspension What is the best "MoneyNoObject" suspension?
HMMMMMMMM you got my attention with this question... I want the same thing but as he mentioned above i don't think there is a mix of suspension parts that = ("great handling and great comfort")
Its like taking a "BULLDOG" and mixing it with a "SHIH TZU" = you get BULL-****
This is what I'm planing on getting...
TSW Springs
HSport Rear Lower Control Arms
HSport Rear adjustable Sway Bar (25.5mm Competition Hollow)
TSW X-Brace
M7 Strut Tower Brace
OEM Cabrio Braces (For non Cabrios)
Vorshlag Camber Plates
Koni Yellow Adjustable Sport Shocks
That's what I see in the near future on my R53... =) LOL
Its like taking a "BULLDOG" and mixing it with a "SHIH TZU" = you get BULL-****
This is what I'm planing on getting...
TSW Springs
HSport Rear Lower Control Arms
HSport Rear adjustable Sway Bar (25.5mm Competition Hollow)
TSW X-Brace
M7 Strut Tower Brace
OEM Cabrio Braces (For non Cabrios)
Vorshlag Camber Plates
Koni Yellow Adjustable Sport Shocks
That's what I see in the near future on my R53... =) LOL
Do you really mean "money no object" ? I know of a couple of minis with $20k of suspension work. I have driven one of them and it was awesome.
For me I have the $2k bilstein PSS9's. Much better than stock, and can be dialed from soft to hard in around 1 minute. The trick with these is not to slam them too low. The best road performance is relatively high. It is easy to change spring rates and revalve the shocks to match. Very easy to change the ride height as well.
Here are some pics of my JCW on a tarmac rally on the bilstein PSS9's
If I set them to fully soft I can drive around pretty much normally.
Once again I would stress that you drive height is important on these shocks.
Robbo
For me I have the $2k bilstein PSS9's. Much better than stock, and can be dialed from soft to hard in around 1 minute. The trick with these is not to slam them too low. The best road performance is relatively high. It is easy to change spring rates and revalve the shocks to match. Very easy to change the ride height as well.
Here are some pics of my JCW on a tarmac rally on the bilstein PSS9's
If I set them to fully soft I can drive around pretty much normally.
Once again I would stress that you drive height is important on these shocks.
Robbo
Contact Shake at http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/.
He is a great resource and can design something that will fit your needs.
I just put in his bump stops... WOW, what a difference on the OEM shocks. (Obviously I'm not in a $$$ is no object situation.)
He is a great resource and can design something that will fit your needs.
I just put in his bump stops... WOW, what a difference on the OEM shocks. (Obviously I'm not in a $$$ is no object situation.)
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in my opinion I would go with coilovers, rear control arms, lowering springs(my next mod), and rear sway bar 22mm. Good luck with your decision! By the way I talked to my MINI specialist and he said he wouldn't even try to waste money on the rear strut brace or front...he said it is a waste of money and it is just for looks. He also told me our struts are amazing for our car because how small and durable they are and there is no need for it. So your choice on that.
what did the bump stops do for you?
Contact Shake at http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/.
He is a great resource and can design something that will fit your needs.
I just put in his bump stops... WOW, what a difference on the OEM shocks. (Obviously I'm not in a $$$ is no object situation.)
He is a great resource and can design something that will fit your needs.
I just put in his bump stops... WOW, what a difference on the OEM shocks. (Obviously I'm not in a $$$ is no object situation.)
The new bump stops are predictably progressive. The car feels more planted during hard cornering. It eliminated "snap oversteer". The change allows me to trust myself to push the car.
JPMM,
As mentioned earlier, it depends on what you want to do with the car. Suspension is a whole package deal: springs, shocks, bars, bushings, braces etc., not just one part.
If it is for street use, any middle of the road stuff is quite good, Bilsteins, KWs with adjustability a major plus. Generally, go with spring rates around 300# F and 350# R to start and use good springs such as Swift or Hyperco. Improve adjustability including camber, toe, ride height, some rear sway adjustability etc. About $4-5K and you are done. Go with the settings most people tell you to start with and you have a much better handling car. But don't go too low because there is limited shock travel.
If it is for bragging rights or look what I have, do whatever you want.
If it is for track use, that is a whole different story where it becomes a money pit. In that case, flexibility, rebuildability and reliability is of upmost importance as shocks/many suspension parts only last one season or so. You will need adjustments capability or changes in camber, toe, caster, spring rates, dampening (both compression and rebound), F & R sway, End link height, control arms, bushings, stance etc. with lots of rims with tires of all sorts. And most importantly, the knowledge to know how to adjust it all. To start with, perhaps a good quality competition coil (I like the inverted Mono design) from Ohlin, AST etc, the ones with external reserviors. Again, put on the matched springs from Swift and Hyperco, perhaps F 450# and R 600# to start. Replace all Mini suspension parts and stiffen the frame. Get to know a race shop to fabricate stuff for you as needed. Make sure they have a shock dyno. Expect to spend at least $15K on the suspension to begin with. And get more money ready to swap out stuff as you go.
Remember, there is not one suspension setup for everyone, where driving style differences, driving conditions, needs would dictate many changes. You tweek as you go.
Bump stops are exactly that, it is a rubber piece that limits suspension travel in a bump. This stops the suspension tube from hitting the suspension hat and causing damage in a major bump. But they can cause an abrupt jolt in a big bump, especially the OEM bump stops which are relatively large and hard. Many just shave the OEM bump stop to improve suspension travel. Don't overdo it.
As mentioned earlier, it depends on what you want to do with the car. Suspension is a whole package deal: springs, shocks, bars, bushings, braces etc., not just one part.
If it is for street use, any middle of the road stuff is quite good, Bilsteins, KWs with adjustability a major plus. Generally, go with spring rates around 300# F and 350# R to start and use good springs such as Swift or Hyperco. Improve adjustability including camber, toe, ride height, some rear sway adjustability etc. About $4-5K and you are done. Go with the settings most people tell you to start with and you have a much better handling car. But don't go too low because there is limited shock travel.
If it is for bragging rights or look what I have, do whatever you want.
If it is for track use, that is a whole different story where it becomes a money pit. In that case, flexibility, rebuildability and reliability is of upmost importance as shocks/many suspension parts only last one season or so. You will need adjustments capability or changes in camber, toe, caster, spring rates, dampening (both compression and rebound), F & R sway, End link height, control arms, bushings, stance etc. with lots of rims with tires of all sorts. And most importantly, the knowledge to know how to adjust it all. To start with, perhaps a good quality competition coil (I like the inverted Mono design) from Ohlin, AST etc, the ones with external reserviors. Again, put on the matched springs from Swift and Hyperco, perhaps F 450# and R 600# to start. Replace all Mini suspension parts and stiffen the frame. Get to know a race shop to fabricate stuff for you as needed. Make sure they have a shock dyno. Expect to spend at least $15K on the suspension to begin with. And get more money ready to swap out stuff as you go.
Remember, there is not one suspension setup for everyone, where driving style differences, driving conditions, needs would dictate many changes. You tweek as you go.
Bump stops are exactly that, it is a rubber piece that limits suspension travel in a bump. This stops the suspension tube from hitting the suspension hat and causing damage in a major bump. But they can cause an abrupt jolt in a big bump, especially the OEM bump stops which are relatively large and hard. Many just shave the OEM bump stop to improve suspension travel. Don't overdo it.
boy at $15K-$20K I think I asked the wrong question!
I have no suspension shops around here, so I guess I should have asked whats the best bolton suspension that can be installed without alot of fuss. at around $3000. It looks like a set of ride height preset coil overs could be the easiest (with adjusting the damping for the best ride and handling).
JPMM,
for most people, the mainstream bolt on stuff will work just great. I heard great things about the Bilstein PSS9. Driven the PSS10 on Porsche 911 and they are handle much better than stock, especially for the road. And you get adjustability. But do not forget the rest of the suspension and better rubber. And try not to lower the car more than 1.25"-1.5".
Hope you can get to go to driving school for the car control clinic.
for most people, the mainstream bolt on stuff will work just great. I heard great things about the Bilstein PSS9. Driven the PSS10 on Porsche 911 and they are handle much better than stock, especially for the road. And you get adjustability. But do not forget the rest of the suspension and better rubber. And try not to lower the car more than 1.25"-1.5".
Hope you can get to go to driving school for the car control clinic.
I just stumbled across a lot of new in the package Noltec Grunt bushings. I tried to look up their website and there isn't a website anymore, I have Mini, E30, E36, etc. A lot of different types and none are open. I was wondering if anybody has an opinion on them? I don't know anything about them, they are the Blue kind and they are all poly unrethane. I have motor mounts, adjustable strut mounts, alot of different sized sway bar bushings, caster bushings all for am r53. I want to put them on my car but i do not know anything about the company. Any opions would be greatly appriciated
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,, I like the thought of the Ohlins too