Suspension 215/45 to 225/45 OK?
215/45 to 225/45 OK?
I'm currently running Michelin 215/45 ZR17s. When they finally wear out I'm thinking of going to 225/45. Is there any problem with this size on 17X7 wheels on a MINI that's been lowered 1.2"? Thanks!
Inner clearance problems (tire rub on strut) and wheel arch rubbing may occurs which depends on your current camber settings.
Remember with a 225/45, you're increasing BOTH the sidewall from 3.8" to 4.0" and the overall width of contact patch, which bloats the tire.
Measure and determine what areas have available room to grow and report back with specific dimensions of your current 215/45 fitment.
- Erik
Remember with a 225/45, you're increasing BOTH the sidewall from 3.8" to 4.0" and the overall width of contact patch, which bloats the tire.
Measure and determine what areas have available room to grow and report back with specific dimensions of your current 215/45 fitment.
- Erik
Direct experience-would not be a problem, if....
I am running 225/45-17's on stock Mini 17 x 7's. Like yours, a second gen car. From looking at posts about this when I did it, my sense is the gen 1's are a tighter fit, so if you get other actual experience feedback, be sure you know to which gen. Mini it applies. But, per below, your lowered ride is still the primary question mark.
Specifically on mine, I fit Michelin PS2's in 225/45 17. My suspension is the "sport" option (not just an "S", but the actual optional sport suspension). It is otherwise unmodified. The tire clearance is closest in two places, both up front:
o between the tread and the perch of the strut tower just above it, as well as toward the inside. All servicable and w/out any doubts (mybe 1/4 - 3/8" clear), but I would say running even tightly fit cable chains would be a no go as a result.
o on the inside of the tire when the steering is turned to full lock relative to the wheel liner. It does not rub there but it is quite close--call it as little as 1/8 inch.
Have driven the car 5,000 miles plus since, and there has been zero rubbing. No scuffs on any tire or any fender liner, and I have been under and around the wheels several times, including a JCW front brakes swap.
The watch areas:
o everything mentioned is specific to a gen 2 and stock wheels + factory sport suspension. Particularly if you are aftermarket lowered or running other offset and width wheels, my experience is not transferable. Since you say you are lowered, I guess that remains your biggest question mark area.
o be VERY careful on the max tire width at the "bulge"--the widest part of the tire body when it is mounted (and I do NOT mean the tread width, which is different). TireRack's specs include this for many (but not all) tires. I noticed in 225's many tended to have either a "narrower" width like the Michelins, or sometimes a broader width. Some popular choices may also fall into that broader width (perhaps Conti DWS's??--been a while so you would have to look again). Both the strut tower clearance and especially that inner fender liner clearance are close enough already, I wouldn't push it further. The rear clearances appear tightest on the sidewalls at some suspension points, so same possible issue there. Don't know how your lowering would play in there.
And yes BTW, very satisfied. Way big difference from the supposed performance summer Dunlop factory RFs to the Michelins. Softened up the ride some as expected; great handling, great braking. In retrospect, not just the RF nature of the Dunlops but also their tread compound were not up to what I wanted. I like the wheel wells filled up somewhat more too, and it eliminated any debate for me about any spacers.
Specifically on mine, I fit Michelin PS2's in 225/45 17. My suspension is the "sport" option (not just an "S", but the actual optional sport suspension). It is otherwise unmodified. The tire clearance is closest in two places, both up front:
o between the tread and the perch of the strut tower just above it, as well as toward the inside. All servicable and w/out any doubts (mybe 1/4 - 3/8" clear), but I would say running even tightly fit cable chains would be a no go as a result.
o on the inside of the tire when the steering is turned to full lock relative to the wheel liner. It does not rub there but it is quite close--call it as little as 1/8 inch.
Have driven the car 5,000 miles plus since, and there has been zero rubbing. No scuffs on any tire or any fender liner, and I have been under and around the wheels several times, including a JCW front brakes swap.
The watch areas:
o everything mentioned is specific to a gen 2 and stock wheels + factory sport suspension. Particularly if you are aftermarket lowered or running other offset and width wheels, my experience is not transferable. Since you say you are lowered, I guess that remains your biggest question mark area.
o be VERY careful on the max tire width at the "bulge"--the widest part of the tire body when it is mounted (and I do NOT mean the tread width, which is different). TireRack's specs include this for many (but not all) tires. I noticed in 225's many tended to have either a "narrower" width like the Michelins, or sometimes a broader width. Some popular choices may also fall into that broader width (perhaps Conti DWS's??--been a while so you would have to look again). Both the strut tower clearance and especially that inner fender liner clearance are close enough already, I wouldn't push it further. The rear clearances appear tightest on the sidewalls at some suspension points, so same possible issue there. Don't know how your lowering would play in there.
And yes BTW, very satisfied. Way big difference from the supposed performance summer Dunlop factory RFs to the Michelins. Softened up the ride some as expected; great handling, great braking. In retrospect, not just the RF nature of the Dunlops but also their tread compound were not up to what I wanted. I like the wheel wells filled up somewhat more too, and it eliminated any debate for me about any spacers.
Last edited by MP1.6T; Jun 30, 2011 at 03:53 PM.
It's going to depend on many factors. Mostly, what's the offset on your wheels? Good chance you'll rub on the struts especially if you're running tires that tend to run on the wider side of things like star specs.
i will soon be runnin on 205/40 ZR17's...8.25 rim width and 3.5'' of drop...gotta check your offset like stated before. but i'm just into poke nd stretch, gunna have 12mm spacers and das mini will be hella flush
Wouldnt you want to go with 225/40 vs 225/45? The 225/40 would give you much closer dimension to stock with the same width advantage of the 225/45.
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It has been my experience that 225s can be too wide for the 7" rim, even assuming no clearance issues. It may not matter to you, but back to back testing of 205 versus 225 on my 15x7 Kosei rims confirms that the 225s actually have less grip.
Most folks that I've sought advice from in the racing community seem to share my view that cantilevering the contact patch that much results in deformation at max lateral loads, thereby limiting the capability of the theoretically wider tread.
I'll not be returning to the 225s until I get an 8" rim to support them.
My observations are based on two competition seasons - one on 225 R1R, and the other on 225 RS3. I am presently running 205 Z1.
Cheers,
Charlie
Most folks that I've sought advice from in the racing community seem to share my view that cantilevering the contact patch that much results in deformation at max lateral loads, thereby limiting the capability of the theoretically wider tread.
I'll not be returning to the 225s until I get an 8" rim to support them.
My observations are based on two competition seasons - one on 225 R1R, and the other on 225 RS3. I am presently running 205 Z1.
Cheers,
Charlie
once I levered my mind open on the point, I found numerous accounts within sccaforums.com telling me essentially the same thing. Andy Hollis makes that point clearly in several posts.
In Stock classes, where the Hoosier DOT-R tires rule, the structure of the tires (particularly the sidewall strength) permits the successful use of very wide tires on relatively narrow rims. Not so the TW 140 tires that are mandated in the Street Touring classes.
Cheers,
Charlie
perhaps so, I haven't tested 215s so I could not comment. I run 205/50-15 at present.
the plan for this coming year is to get some 15x8 rims out front, and run 225/45 RS3 on dry days, with the 195/50-15 R1R on the back.
asymmetrical is the next step...
on wet days I'll just throw the 15x7 back on the front and use the 195 R1R all 'round.
we shall see...
the plan for this coming year is to get some 15x8 rims out front, and run 225/45 RS3 on dry days, with the 195/50-15 R1R on the back.
asymmetrical is the next step...
on wet days I'll just throw the 15x7 back on the front and use the 195 R1R all 'round.
we shall see...
What are you doing with the car that makes you think you need a 225 tire? If it's for the track then get a set of Hoosier A6 or R6 tires, and call it a day. If it's a street car, you don't probably need them...

Cheers,
Charlie
Ps: I dunno about the OP, but obviously I run Street Touring with the SCCA, so no Ho Ho crack pipe for me. When I was banished to ASP for a couple of years though I did run the Hoosiers - that was fun while it lasted...
Last edited by cmt52663; Feb 26, 2012 at 07:10 AM.
Guys, I have a new set of Goodyear Eagle GTs waiting for me at the Tire store and 2 sets of wheels to choose from. The tires are 225/45/17's (V rated) and I can use the stock Crown spokes with 48 offset that weigh 22lbs each or I can put them on a set of Enkies with 42 offset that weigh 18lbs. Anybody have any experience with the trying 225's on 42 offset wheels? I'd like to loose the 4lbs but I don't want to have a problem with rubbing on the outside? Thanks,
it was hard for me to believe also, which accounts for my stubborn persistence on the matter. ultimately however I had to admit that my own measurements using G-Tech as well as competition results were telling me that, and listen.
once I levered my mind open on the point, I found numerous accounts within sccaforums.com telling me essentially the same thing. Andy Hollis makes that point clearly in several posts.
In Stock classes, where the Hoosier DOT-R tires rule, the structure of the tires (particularly the sidewall strength) permits the successful use of very wide tires on relatively narrow rims. Not so the TW 140 tires that are mandated in the Street Touring classes.
Cheers,
Charlie
once I levered my mind open on the point, I found numerous accounts within sccaforums.com telling me essentially the same thing. Andy Hollis makes that point clearly in several posts.
In Stock classes, where the Hoosier DOT-R tires rule, the structure of the tires (particularly the sidewall strength) permits the successful use of very wide tires on relatively narrow rims. Not so the TW 140 tires that are mandated in the Street Touring classes.
Cheers,
Charlie
225 widths seem to be near the border line of rubbing, especially with dropped suspensions; some get rubbing and some don't. The 225/45/17 size is also a little taller than stock, so rubbing could also occur at the fender lining above the tire tread at full suspension compression.
As Charlie suggested, a 225 street tire may not get all the available tread width down on a 7" rim, while a Hoosier might. Assuming one plans to use an Extreme Performance street tire like the Star Spec or AD08, the 215/40/17 size might be another option, as they're somewhat smaller in diameter (a shorter sidewall provides somewhat sharper turn-ins) and weigh about 3# less than the 225/45/17.
BTW, the thread's OP last posted on NAM in August 2011, after a hot flurry of posts for about a year. That's okay; the thread lives on without him.
As Charlie suggested, a 225 street tire may not get all the available tread width down on a 7" rim, while a Hoosier might. Assuming one plans to use an Extreme Performance street tire like the Star Spec or AD08, the 215/40/17 size might be another option, as they're somewhat smaller in diameter (a shorter sidewall provides somewhat sharper turn-ins) and weigh about 3# less than the 225/45/17.
BTW, the thread's OP last posted on NAM in August 2011, after a hot flurry of posts for about a year. That's okay; the thread lives on without him.
I have also run into a similar problem like this in the past (not with the mini). But the conclusion I came to was not that I was losing grip, but that it was too much grip for my car to the point where I was losing straightaway speeds. Obviously it was a much more under-powered car and I was comparing a 195 to a 205 series tire. But because my acceleration was killed with the wider tires the car was slower in almost all parts of the track.
As I went up in power I ended up utilizing the wider tires better and the thinner of the 2 just didnt compete.
I'm running 215/45/17 RS3s this year, and they are an ideal size to fit in the stock 7" wide wheel. Any wider would likely feel mushier, less responsive, and less confidence-inspiring, even if they did fit without rubbing.
And cmt52663's point is absolutely correct. It's definitely possible for a tire that is too wide for the wheel to actually impair vehicle performance. The problem will be espcially bad on tires with a softer carcass/sidewall.
Which Michelins are you considering? Most of their tires are very soft sidewall...
Edit - Doh. Just realized that the OP posted this a LOOONG time ago... Well maybe it will help someone else...
And cmt52663's point is absolutely correct. It's definitely possible for a tire that is too wide for the wheel to actually impair vehicle performance. The problem will be espcially bad on tires with a softer carcass/sidewall.
Which Michelins are you considering? Most of their tires are very soft sidewall...
Edit - Doh. Just realized that the OP posted this a LOOONG time ago... Well maybe it will help someone else...







better grip = cornering on two wheels