Is there a short cut way to do this without (completely) dropping the front subframe? One of mine is shot and I want to replace both. I don't need to remove the bar, just replace the bushings that bolt to the top of the subframe. Looks like there is not enough clearance to get the bolts out with the subframe in place.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

I will be replacing mine in the next 2 days with powerflex, along with lots of other suspension mods. will keep you posted.

 

I think this will be the post you are looking for--

with
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/99725-front-control-arm-bushing-install.html..

without
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...g-install.html

 

You are correct tazio that you don't have to lower the entire front subframe to swap out your control arm bushings. I swapped out my worn bushings a couple summers ago with the Alta PSRS and essentially did it the same way 002 did it in his how-to thread, except I did it w/o using the "special" bmw removal tool and used a pneumatic hammer and a blow torch instead.

As long as you have your car fully raised 5-6 feet on a lift it shouldn't be that difficult. It took me and a buddy about 5 hours from start to finish. I think it would be a 3 hour job if I ever had to do it again.

Pretty much follow this thread step by step: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...g-install.html

 

Thanks guys. So 002's approach won't work as he does not lower the subframe at all and I will have to lower it at least an inch or so to remove the bolts. Again, I am not trying to replace the control arm bushings but the sway bar bushings. This little bit caught my interest:

"...they accomplish this without dropping the subframe completely. As it was relayed to me, they disconnect the steering column universal joint and the rear most subframe bolts, wedge a board between the subframe and chassis to maintain clearance, and that’s about it. They do have a special ball joint tool to help with that approach."

That is more along the lines of what I was hoping I could do. So if I am not removing the control arm brackets, would I still need the ball joint tool? I'm assuming no. And is disconnecting the steering column universal joint pretty straightforward?

 

My apologies. I guess its getting late and my brain isn't fully functioning.

Disconnecting the steering column joint is straightforward. There's only 1 way to take it off and put it back on. I never even knew there was a special ball joint tool; depending on the variety of sockets and extensions you have, you probably don't need it.

So you're going to try unbolting one side of the subframe at a time, and hoping it drops down an inch or 2 and gives you enough clearance to install a new bushing? If it looks like that will work, just make sure that you aren't stretching any wires.

 

I really hate bumping old threads but someone has to do it...

Hoping to attempt this Friday. Keep you guys posted. It seems as if even a few inches will make this a breeze. Hopefully I don't choke on my own words. I soaked the bolts in PB blaster yesterday afternoon.

I'm assuming that the slits in the bushings face the rear of the car?

 

I would of posted these pictures sooner but I can't seem to get this forum on tapatalk?

In any event, after doing this, I would suggest NOT to attempt it the short cut way described here. I replaced the passenger side and it took me almost three hours, with air tools and a lift.

I'm hoping to drop the subframe this week and do the other side. The car has developed a slight "click" at very low speeds that I'm sure is from the passenger side bushing not being seated properly. At least I'm hoping it's not the rack...

 

I'm all about short cuts myself, but this is one of those where I wouldn't if you have the correct tools. With a good jack/stands and air tools to accompany the normal hand tools necessary of course, this job can be pretty painless compared to the "shortcut" if the old bushings decide to give you a hard time.

Drop it. Replace with pre-pressed for the CA bushings and throw some poly sway arm bushings on while you're at it. Put things back together.

Could be done in the 3 hours it took you for the one if not less with the tools you have.

 

The original post here by tazio asks whether it is possible to remove the SWAY ARM BUSHINGS, not the CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS.

The "answers" all go to the CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS.

He asked the same question again in a different set of words.

The "answers" again ignored his question and discussed the control arm bushings.

Like him, I've searched all over the web for this answer and fine none.

I did lower the front subframe on my 2009 R56 to get at a hidden transmission pan bolt a few months ago, without touching any wires or pulling any ball joints. That worked, and it looks as if lowering only the front of the subframe would allow for the removal/replacement of the sway bar bushings so I don't have to get the car half apart and then get on my bicycle and ride 3 miles into town or the Internet buy a puller while my car sits on jacks.

So does anyone have an answer to the question which was asked rather than the one you want to answer?

 

The pictures I posted were of when I swapped my right side sway bushing?

I'm unsure on the r56 but I would not advise this method on the r50/r53. There simply is not enough room. I've since dropped the subframe and gotten access a lot more effortlessly and cursed less...

Whatever your pleasure though.

 

I'm now in the process of reassembling after replacing the sway bar bushings. I didn't have to completely remove the front subframe. However, lowering it enough to get to the rearmost of the bushing clamp bolts required pulling off the grille, the front bumper cover, and the front bumper and crush tubes, along with a large number of those annoying plastic rivets, some of which always break in the process. (To the extent possible, I always replace that plastic crap with small bolts, nuts, and washers.)

Also, I had to disconnect the tie rod ends (one of which I wanted to replace anyway) and the lower nut on the sway bar end links (which I was replacing anyway). Even if not replacing them, these parts have to be moved out of the way to get at one of the subframe bolts on each side, a pair of male torx bolts. In all, 16 subframe bolts have to be found (some very cleverly hidden) and removed, in addition to the nuts for the tie rod ends and sway bar end links and all the front end parts.

Disconnecting the tie rod ends was relatively easy only because I had recently done it. The prior time, without a puller, getting the passenger-side tie rod end off required a trip to the auto parts store on my bicycle. So have a puller or a wedge tool handy.

Even with the subframe bolts off, the subframe won't lower enough on its own. I pushed it down a bit on each side by putting the car's tire jack between the body and the suspension just in front of the front struts and jacking the suspension/subframe down a bit.

With the right power tools (if there are any that fit some of the tight spaces), this job could have gone a bit faster. But a couple of the bolts are in tight spots and require a breaker bar, which will only move about 1/12 of a rotation. You have to move the breaker bar, pull it out, rotate the socket a quarter turn, re-insert it and turn it 1/12 turn, pull it out, rotate the socket another quarter turn, et cetera until the bolt is loose enough for a socket wrench. I broke a 1/2-inch drive socket wrench trying to avoid this tedious part of the job.

All in all, this job will have taken me about 30 hours, including lookups -- just to replace two bushings which normally wear out by 45-50 k miles. It's yet another reminder of just how badly designed and made the 2009 R56 is. I've been servicing my own cars for 52 years now, and I haven't seen a car needing so many major repairs before 50k miles since ... maybe my original '60s Mini or my sister's '60s Renault Dauphin back then.

But thank you, online parts dealers, for inexpensive alternatives to dealer parts and fast, efficient service. If not for you, I'd push this POS off a cliff.

Fun to drive, but not worth it. Maybe the newer Minis are made right.