This is how to install the front control arm (wishbone) bushings without dropping the subframe.
I used powerflex bushings

Tools;
Jack and stands
Medium pry bar (about 18 inches long)
10mm socket
13mm socket
13mm ratcheting wrench
16mm ratcheting wrench
BMW tool 31 5 150 (and 27mm socket or wrench)


Support the front as high as possible on stands and remove the wheels.

Remove the two bolts that hold the outer ball joint to the hub with the 13mm socket

Push down on the arm to seperate the hub and ball joint.

The drive shaft must be released from the transmission to gain enough clearance to remove the forward bolt that holds the inner ball joint to the sub frame. There is a circlip holding the shaft in and only reqiures a nudge with a pry bar to release it. Be careful not to pry at the seal. There may be some fluid that drips down so be prepared to catch it.

NOTE: The passenger side has an intermediate shaft and support bearing that must be removed to release the shaft. First remove the power steering fan (two 10mm nuts) and electrical connector. Then you can release the support bearing with the 13mm ratcheting wrench.


Now remove the two inner ball joint bolts with the 16mm wrench. I used two together to get leverage to brake it loose, then used the ratcheting wrench for the rest



Now pry the control arm out of the bushing at the inner metal part (red). Some WD40 will help it slide out. If you pry at the outer part of the bushing it will require more effort to rip the rubber out of the sleave. Three pictures down shows the result.


Remove the old bushing with the BMW tool. Here is how it looks on the car



Roughen up the inside of the bushing carrier with sand paper (not if using the stock bushing) and fallow the lubrication directions from powerflex. I found it easier to install the new bushing with the center piece in.

Here is an exploded view of the new bushing vs. the old. The stock bushing could travel back and forth through carrier axially (causing wheel hop and judder), where the powerflex stops once it compresses. There is no extra space across the diameter and should reduce toe changes under load



As they say, install in reverse order.

The powerflex bushings added stability at higher speeds. My car would drift back and forth and couldn't hold a line. They stopped the wheel hop I had with my light flywheel. Reduced the scary wondering when braking hard, especially into a turn on back roads. The car now has more solid feel and did not add any noise, infact it reduced alot of the tire noise I had before.

 

Great follow-up 002!!! I think you told me the remove and re-installion took you about 4 hours?

 

Yes, I was expecting to pop the inner ball joints from the control arm to save time, but the BMW tool didn't fit. It took some time to find an alternative to dropping the subframe and use the few tools I brought home from work. That plus chasing the dogs, BSing with the neighbor, etc... Expect half a day to take your time and smell the roses. Two to three hours if you stay focused.

 

So, if I pop the inner ball joints I'll not have to remove the axles???

 

Awesome write up - worthy of hall-of-fame!

Thanks for sharing!

 

Yes, but the specified BMW tool didn't fit. You need a tool with a pivot point that will fit in the hole in the control arm and a pressure point that will pass the control arm opposite the ball joint. The tool I had was too short and ended up bending the pivot bolt.

 

i had the same problem with my bmw ball joint removal tool. i ended up grinding/filing it to make it work. i'll post pictures of the modified tool if anybody is interested.

 

Sure! What other tools do you both feel will work?

 

Any generic tool that will fit those parameters. Napa has some, but I didn't want to spend any more time or money looking for tools. The BMW ball joint was about $250 and the bushing tool was about $320 retail.

I'm not sure if I will look for a new ball joint tool for the next I'm scheduled to do. It wasn't that bad with out it.

Thanks for the feedback on the how to. If anyone in the bay area would like this done or needs tips or tool rental let me know.

 

Are you talking S.F. Bay Area? If so, Could you give a ball park on a $$$ to install the Powerflex bushings on my 04 MCS? (I already have the bushings)
Thanks!
Jim

 

Yes, SF bay area. I was thinking $225 including bushings, and an extra 50 to go to your place. I don't really like charging people for help, but I have to draw the line somewhere. Because you already have the bushings, $150 will work. I don't know the dealer estimate, but that should more than fair.

Remember that I am a BMW tech NOT a shop or MINI tech. Also, I am currently FAR east bay (brentwood) But there is a great back road on the way, marsh creek. I can help with other service too, Expect at least half the dealer estimate.

Moderators, If this crosses any forum policies let me know.

 

Oh yeah, I would recomend an alignment afterwards, especially if you had one with the worn bushings.

 

002,
PM Sent.
Jim

 

I occasionally hang out at a local european car shop; I would consider myself somewhat friends with the staff. Would they have the tools necessary to remove the bushings (is the BMW bushing tool necessary)? Is $200 cash a fair price?

And Flyboy2160, did you ever take those photos of your modified bushing removal tool?

 

The tools required depend on which method and bushings are used. If you want to do it as pictured above, then special tools are needed. You could also lower the subframe, remove the bushing carriers and use a shop press or vise to remove the bushing insert. Infact, you can buy a complete replacement bushing with carrier and just bolt it right in. Your friends are unlikely to have the special tools, but should have a generic set that can be used when removing the carrier from the subframe. $200 would be a good deal for you, but I doubt you'll find a shop that will do it for less than 200 plus parts.

 

Thanks 002, but I already had it done. I actually had the Alta PSRS and a couple new front ball joints installed last weekend at a friend's shop. The ball joints alone were $40 a piece. I paid less than $200 labor for everything!

We didn't have a BMW bushing tool, but we still managed to get the old dry-rotted bushings out with a modified impact gun . We put the PSRS in the freezer for about an hour, then smoothly squeezed them in with a press. The entire process also took us about 4 hours with a quick lunch break, but after doing it, we could probably do the job again in as little as 2-3.

My advice to everyone thinking about replacing their front control arm bushings:

1. Don't spend money on replacing them unless you need to (worn out/dry rotted)
2. Do it the way 002 describes in this thread
3. Lowering the subframe method will not make it easier
4. It really isn't that hard of an install if you have a lot of tools available.

Thanks once again 002 for the write up.

 

Glad you go them in, and for a great price. If you haven't already, start a thread with your impressions of the alta stuff.

A couple things about using "my" method, the tools are expensive and can cause the original bushing to flare out and rivot itself into the carrier (if not done right). That would require dropping the subframe anyway. For people that have more time than money and/or will only use the tools once, I say drop the frame or better yet put some money into the mini community and pay a tech to do it.

 

I plan to do a write up on the PSRS after next weekend's autocross. It's the same group of cars every month, so I want to see how much my times have improved relative to theirs before I comment too much.

I also have 4 brand new Falken Azeni RT-615's and just purchased the Megan racing coilovers with camber plates from Cliff @ coast to coast, so I might wait another week or two before I install those and simply see the before and after effects of the PSRS.

 

Thanks for this really nice write up. I have some questions, hope you can help.

Does the new bushing go into the metal clad for the original factory bushing, then the metal clad is pressed back onto the bushing carrier still attached to the car?


The BMW tool used to press the original metal clad bushing out of the bushing carrier on the car: 1. Is used to install the new bushing.
2. How much does the tool cost and where did you purchase.
3. Did tool work well for you, any comments?

How hard was it to bush the control arm back into the new bushing, any comments or tips please.

Finally, it appears that you did not have to remove the bumper. True / false

Thanks in advance for your time.

 

Great write up! I am definitely thinking about tackling this project also, bhut with these:

 

^that is great for a race car but sucks for a street car

 

i'm not keen on paying 300 for the tool . the car's about 4+ yrs old now with close to 100000 mls. so i'm looking at all the bushings while i'm in there . question is ; how tough is it to drop the front subframe ? the bently shows the mounting points etc. but no procedure for dropping it .big job?

 

Do a search for "front sway bar install" and that'll bring it up. The procedure is the same (sway bar bolts to the bushing brackets). It does not look like what I would consider a beginner job, though...

Some comments:

If you want to replace with stock: buy the bushings pre-installed in the brackets from Pelican parts (or others).

If you plan to upgrade to an aftermarket bushing, then you'll need the BMW tool, or some sort of equivalent to remove the OE bushing from the bracket, or carefully cut it out.

 

just did; k heuvo did a great one . i've had the front end off alot . this just goes deeeeper . it's a good write up . i.m going power flex so i'll be cutting . thx .

 

i done the alta bushings and dropped the subframe,was not that big of a deal and iam not a mechanic,not really needing any excuses to buy more tools,i bought a shop press from harbor freight to push out the bushing.So the whole project cost me $230 for the bushings and $160 for the press and i have the press forever,not bad!I also used the press as a spring compressor when i changed the spring rates on my coilovers