great idea ; i just looked ; they got a 12ton for 109.00 . thx !!!

 

Ok... I have now installed 3 sets of Powerflex bushings over the past three weekends using the BMW tool. For the last set, I got the procedure down to 3 hours (with some air-ratchet assist on the dozen + subframe bolts). So, with everything still fresh in my mind, I'll add some comments to this thread since my technique is similar to 002's. While a press may have done the job, I didn't really want to find a home for one in the garage right now... Plus, the only press I would spend moeny on has to be able to do RWD axle bearings and that size press will cost a fair bit more than the BMW tool did. I bought the BMW tool from Morristown MINI. Be warned on the cost... I was NOT quoted $320 for as I've read elsewhere... was quite a bit more.

1. I drop the subframe about a 1/2". Not a big deal, although I use a long extension and a universal joint socket to get to the steering coupler bolt. The only subframe bolts that are completely removed are the angled bolts holding the LCA bushing bracket. The rest are just loosened. The lower motor mount bolt stays. This is done mainly to get some extra working clearances.

2. I do NOT completely remove the LCA. This is key to really speeding up the job and avoids touching the CV joints. I pop the outer ball joint, then remove the rear inner ball joint bolt and loosen the forward bolt about an inch. Then using a large pry bar, pry the LCA out of the old bushing. There is enough play in the loose forward bolt to allow the LCA to swing out of the way. I spray some silicon lubricant on the bushing although I can't say for sure if it really does anything. The driver's side is a little more annoying if you have to work around the HID leveling mechanism.

3. Then I use the BMW tool to remove the bushing. However, every description I've read for using the BMW tool is WRONG (sorry guys). First, use the notched plate with the flat side against the bushing (cup side rearward) to pull the bushing flush with the housing. Then switch to the smaller plate to pull the bushing through the housing. Doing it this way prevents the tool from flaring the bushing and making your life miserable (ask me how I know...).

4. I used the BMW tool to install the Powerflex bushing, but with a small modification. I made a larger "recieving cup" so the rubber flange has space to expand when it exits the rear side of the housing. I made this out of a 1/2" long piece of a 2.5" PVC pipe coupler (NOT 2.5" PVC pipe, which is too small) and a 1/4" thick piece of mild steel plate stock (both from Lowes) and a M16x1.5 nut and a 5/8" washer (from the local Ace).

5. Now, mount the inner (purple) parts of the Powerflex bushing to the LCA and grease liberally with the supplied grease (which I'd swear is ti-prep... ). Now, insert the LCA into the mounted bushing and wedge it back into place. The driver's side needed some persuasion with a pry-bar to pop in, but the passenger side went in easily. YMMV.

6. Reassembly the ball joints, tighting up the subframe, reattach the steering column, bolt the wheels back on and enjoy.

I can't say if this technique will work with installing OE type bushings. Considering the forces described with getting the LCA into the bushing, I'm guesing no, but maybe if you have the BMW tool for R&R the LCA to the bushing. Since a friend had his replaced less than a year ago and one of them is already puking oil, I'm not sure I'll ever install a OEM bushing.

We still have 3 more sets of Powerflex bushings on the shelf waiting to be installed, so if anything changes, I'll add updates.

 

my friend has a mini and i am new to working on mini's , but me and my grand father have always used larger sockets and a torch to press out bushings. im looking at the pictures and thinking that you could use a torch to heat up the area on the control arm where the bushing is and use a large special socket like for a axle nut to hammer out the old oem sleeve. my friend has purchased aftermarket bushings and we are trying to figure out a way around to not buying the bmw tool. would my way work you think or no ? like i said.. i am not familiar with these mini's so i have not yet taken anything apart. planning ahead is all. thanks for all replys.

 

This process worked Great!!!

 

Has anyone done the install using the power flex bushings Way sells already pressed into the housing? After reading the write up above it seems like the whole thing could be pretty simple if you don't have to worry about getting the old bushings out.

Thoughts?

 

I used Way's bushings and the process went great. The only issue I had was trying to install them upside down.

 

I used IanF's directions and something I found on minicooperspeed.com to do the install using stock bushings. I was able to get them installed without popping either of the ball joints. I mainly lowered the subframe about 3". Very easy after disconnecting the steering and power steering reservoir. I was then able to unbolt the three bolts on the bushing, pry them off with a large pickle fork and replace. Then I was able to press them back on with a large c clamp.

I am used to working on Jeeps and I was pleased at how easy this car is to work on even though there is not a lot of room to work.

TomH

 

I've just completed swapping out my bushings using the method in the first post. I felt like I did everything right; no extra parts, everything fit back together where it was supposed to go, etc. But, now when I'm driving, my steering wheel rests right of center, and when I hit bumps or dips in the road, my steering jerks hard to the left. I'm a novice, but I didn't feel this job was beyond my capabilities; it was just time consuming.

I definitely had some struggles with getting the drive shaft moved enough on both sides to get the forward bolt of the inner ball joints out and back in, but managed to do it.

I also struggled for a little bit trying to figure out if I was missing a circlip on the right side; neither the instructions nor my service manual make it clear that there is only one on the left side.

I had to swing the hubs out some to gain access and get my hands in there, but I didn't put any tools on any steering parts, so I don't know if that would afffect it.

Any ideas on what I might have done wrong and what the fix may be?

 

002, I am considering doing this repair myself. I'm wondering why it wouldn't have been easier to remove the bracket that holds the bushing and just wack it off the end of the control arm. From one of your pictures it appears that one of the bolts may be covered by the sub frame. Is this the case?

 

I replaced both control arm bushings, struts, and strut mount/camber plates. I did not even touch the subframe. This video helped me understand the process. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XERQz9yJ5i4
I tried for 2 hours trying to get the OEM bushing out . Finally I went to the sawsall with a SHORT metal blade. Bushing came out in under 3 min. cutting from the wheel side. If you do this, make sure you dont hit the floor pan with the blade and be very careful not to cut into the mount.
I was not going to pay for a tool that I would probably only use once, and all the parts stores did not have a tool that I would be happy with using. So I made my own. Most of the parts came from HomeDepot.
I used a 9in carriage bolt, I would suggest using a piece of all thread rod (hind sight). 2 2in pipe caps with drilled hole, nut, washer.
To keep the bushing from twisting and moving around during install, I put a 1 1/8 socket inside the bushing to help keep it aligned (MAJOR HELP).
When the bushing was about half in I removed all the tool pieces and knocked it in with a dead blow hammer. Re assembled and took it to have the front end aligned.

 

Had Power Flex bushings installed to replace the shot factory ones. The car now rides like buck board. Every bump, crack and irregular portion of the roadway surface is felt. It almost feels like a fork lift with hard rubber tires! I would not recommend Power Flex bushings. Replace with OEM would be my suggestion. Oh, and it just adds to how fast your "guaranteed to crack" windshield cracks. What started out as the usual MINI windshield crack traveled about 10 inches in 24 hours after the bushing install.

 

What happen to the video? AL.

 

Certainly not the result I got. I did notice much less movement when trying to move or kick the wheels, but very little increase in NVH,
and boy we have some rough roads here in PA. I have Dunlop SportMaxx tires in 205/50/16, so they're softer than 17 or 18 inch runflats,
but still barely more road harshness than the stock bushings even when they were new.

Are you sure you have the regular purple 80A durometer Powerflex Bushings and that they're fitted correctly? (actually purple insert with black surround)
One can instead order black 95A durometer Powerflex ones that are much harder, and not really recommended for street, and there are some other products
like the Alta PSRS and these http://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-rac...-bushings.html that would more likely give you the results you're describing.
Alternatively, the bushings from Bavarian Autosport are said to be a softer urethane than the regular Powerflex ones, and they have a regular geometry one as
well as another one that increases camber - but they may be on clearance on the way to being discontinued.

 

Still on the fence on this one . I was looking for a vendor that offered a complete OEM type package includung all replacement parts for the lower controll arms for a 2003 MINI, any out there? , AL.

 

Pelican parts is very high priced, do better at a dealer, AL.

 

I got the OEM rear control arm bushings for the front control arms from the dealer and going to try to replace them with out removing the complete control arm. I read that this is possable by lowering the sub frame, wish me luck , AL.

 

Thinking of getting this done at the shop. Short on time, and tools.

Any idea what would be a fair price for just the bushings to be replaced?

 

Labor should be $200-300 at an independent; probably more at the dealer.

 

Pheewwwwww... Estimate I got was much more than that.
I was quoted about 4.5-5 hours of labor (at $110 an hour) plus about $150 in parts, so about $700.

 

Did mine this weekend in my garage on jack stands.

To get the balljoints loose just hammer onto the control arm with the inner nut off. Then undo the outer and use a tool for it.

I didn't drop the subframe or pull axles. I used a sawzall with a metal blade to cut the bushing sleeve and then air chiseled the housing out though you could almost do it by hand.

Pushing the bushings in I used two 2.5" square peices of 1/4" steel that I drilled a hole in and used a price of m10 threaded rod.

 

At leat 2 questions on this DIY:

1) What is this 'BMW Tool' that is constantly referred to?

2) If I am replacing the ball joints, is there any reason to worry about "popping" them off? Don't they just unbolt?

Sorry for reviving an old thread.

 

They have 2 bolts for each ball joint and a nut for the joints itself. You will need a ball joint removal tool. Good luck getting the outer ball joint out from the wheel carrier, mine are fused together.

 

great thread. hooptie, we're supposed to revive old threads instead of starting new ones that have already answered most Qs. I think you did the right thing.

So I'm about to attempt replacement of LCA bushings on my brother's 2005 mini. It is a car he won't have more than another 20-40K miles and/or a few years. So cheap(er)/stock bushing will be fine. I'm also looking to KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid). I replaced his power steering pump, fan motor and rad fan. Really found it a difficult PITA to do those particular jobs.

I see on ebay this style of bushing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251351434250?item=251351434250&viewitem=&vxp=mtr#ht_1121wt_930
Is this style easier to re & re? It is unclear, but maybe this is what some of the folks were talking about on this thread? Any particular brands that I should splurge on for a few extra bucks?

There are also these styles, but I assume they need to be pressed out:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEEZA-MN-R201-Suspension-Control-Arm-Bushing-Front-Lower-/321166141908?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2005%7CModel%3ACooper&hash=item4ac6fe69d4&vxp=mtr#ht_1521wt_930
So considering I want to minimize the cost & labor, what should I do?

Thanks for your help!!

 

Well, if you buy the mevotech one which has the bushing pre-pressed into a carrier, your going to have to drop the subframe to replace it. I've read stories of those bushings which are like the oem bushings failing early. Its not worth it to buy the cheaper ones just to have to replace them after 20k+ miles. It took me 3 hours to replace both sides with power flex bushings without dropping the subframe.

The BMW tool is what is used to press the bushings into the carrier. With a little creativity you can do it without that expensive tool.
I "made" a tool using a long bolt and 2 aluminum bearing installer discs.

Let me know if you need me to go into more detail.

 

seems like there are some creative methods to avoid buying the tool. I definitely am NOT going to buy the tool, which was probably one of the reasons I looked at the mevotech one (as an example). Some folks seem to say the powerflex is really stiff riding (?).

another poster asked about heating up LCA and knocking out bushing. My alignment guy said to never use heat on suspension components. I do have an air chisel and saw another poster talked about that. And of course your custom tool sounds like it works good too. I'll have another gander at this thread as there was a ton of info and I mostly skimmed through it.

the OEMs lasted 100K miles (probably been worn out for awhile though).

I do agree that i don't want to re-do this job. Where do i get best deal on powerflex brand?/set up? what do make of the stiff ride comments from a few folks?