There seems to be a lot of options for coilovers in many different price ranges. I have read the product descriptions on various websites, but there's nothing that really compares them to one anther. Can anyone shed some light on what the differences are and which one's would be the best for a JCW Clubman? I'm looking to lower the car ~1 inch or so and stiffen the ride a little.

Thanks

 

This forum has tons of discussions on this topic. Look at the info that is here and has been posted over the past year for a better overview than a few answers to a vague question.
IMHO, your question tells me you don't need coilovers.

 

In all honesty, I did a search; and yes, there are many posts regarding coilovers for the R56, but very few regarding the R55. My primary question is regarding pricing. What explains the drastic difference between say the H&R $1000, the M7 $1500, and the Cross at $2400?

 

I just did a lot of research. I ended up installing the H&R RSS coilovers on my 2009 JCW. I chose the H&R RSS because is was stiffer and more performance oriented than the H&R Sport and for the most part it was unlikely that once properly installed I would not need to have additional dampening adjustment like the Cross, Megan and M7s do. At first I really thought it would be good to have dampening adjustment capability but I really like the firmness of the RSS and I can use if for street or track. Most of the ones that have dampening adjustment, have the adjustment on the top, so the only way to adjust the rears are to take them back out and adjust them, or cut a whole in your frame to access the adjustment ****. The exception was M7s which have the adjustment on the bottom, but as I understand it, the M7 is made in Asia (Taiwan?) and I was just concerned about possible fit and finish. The H&R's get excellent reports. With the H&R as with about half of teh coilovers out there, you will use the upper caps from the stock shocks. I bought lower rear control arms to make sure there was plenty of room for camber adjustment. The front did not need camber plates. I still had room for adjustment. The other issue was price. The H&R RSS cost me about $1,200 as compared to $2,400 for Cross, $1,000 for Megan, $1,500 for M7. So I think I got a high quality performance oriented coilover for a good price. And since I was going to do all this stuff, I went ahead and installed an Alta 22mm sway bar too. The JCW Clubman would have the same set up as the JCW coupe.

 

Great, thanks for the information.

 

I am also looking for Coilovers for our Clubman, I am thinking that either the Megan or H&Rs are the way to go. The Megans look nice because of the dampening adjustment, but I am worried that the ride will be too rough for the wife and kid with spring rates of 6k front and 8k rear.

 

H&R- adjustable ride height, no dampening adj, no camber plates
M7- adj. ride height, adj. dampening, rear dampening adjustable on bottom without shock removal, no camber plates
CROSS-adj ride height, adj dampening, adj shock bodies, Camber plates included, rear adj cables included, front end links included
MEGAN- adj ride height, adj dampening, adj shock bodies, camber plates, rear upper mounts included, rear adj cables include

Now all of these different coilover kits have different spring rates and valving, that's a BIG difference in them and ride/performance
If you have adj shock bodies this will help you maintain shock travel as you lower the car, if you don't have that when you lower you will loose shock travel and decrease performance and ride quality
If they have camber plates this can be a big plus, otherwise you'll spend $200-500 for a set later.
And of course there is a difference in quality and durability.

Hope that helps

 

The cross have adjustable shock bodies? That's a major benefit, as it lowers without sacrificing travel.

 

The problem i have with a lot of coilovers that have adjsutable shock bodies is that yes, you can lower with sacrificing bump travel, but they have so little travel to begin with that you're still not really ahead of other coilovers unless you really slam the car (but then geometry isn't pretty). This isn't all of them, but in my experience it's most of them.

I like to see actual travel numbers when i can.

- drew

 

Sometimes you don't want the travel on a lowered car... hence, rubbing. H&R's on mine.

 

true, i'm just more interested in performance and ride quality.

 

Those 2 words aren't always synonymous. Guess it depends on yer definition of "ride quality" when it comes to lowering it.

 

they can be, and when performance and ride quality work together it's awesome.

 

Very true.

 

Yea but limited travel on a valving that was designed with little travel in mind is a good thing. I am never a fan of shortening travel on valving that wasn't designed with such little travel in mind.

I dont care about travel numbers, but if I could see bump and rebound numbers from a Shock dyno, that would be cool. I definately need to spring for coils at some point. Nice to know there is a set out there that can lower without sacrificing travel.

 

Limited travel works when you have stiff spring rates, otherwise you bottom out a lot. Then you need good valving with those spring rates or ride will suck, as well as handling.

Shock dyno plots are very important, but i think travel numbers are too. Lack of travel is my biggest complaint with the stock Mini suspension.

 

LOL what are you doing in your mini, that you are hitting bump stops with the stock suspension??? Rally-X?

 

You're like on the bumpstops at rest in the Mini.

I'm serious, there's like 2.5 inches of bump travel, including the bumpstop.

And DC/Baltimore area roads kinda suck....