Suspension Strut dropped out of Camber Plate
Strut dropped out of Camber Plate
When I went to remount a wheel tonight, the left front strut pulled out of my IE camber plate. I have TX Speedwerks springs with IE adjustable street plates and stock MCS struts. I pulled the strut down further and took out the camber plate to look at it. The bearing was still attached to the strut, but it didn't look like there was anything holding it to the camber plate. I didn't see the plates get installed so I don't know if something is missing. Does the bearing just press into the housing or did something break? I lined it up and lowered the car back down, but it doesn't seem to be seated as far as the other side. Ideas?
Sounds to me like the urethane let loose from the bearing retainer then? The bearing is supposed to be retained in the retainer (big CNC'd aluminum piece). We've seen a couple where the urethane let loose and that happened. IE is usually pretty good at sending replacements and stated that they did have issues with a supplier at one point (the inside of the housing wasn't roughed up enough before the urethane was poured).
Camber plates replaced
I got the IE replacement camber plates installed yesterday. Since I had everything apart, I decided to get new struts now that I'm over 100k miles.
I decided on the Koni sport adjustables, but that presents a new problem:

The adjustment **** is too large for the slot in the camber plate. Hmmm. The plastic **** doesn't seem robust enough to try to trim down with the dremel tool. Any other common tool that can be used?
Here's the old plate. You can see where the bearing pulled out of the urethane.
I decided on the Koni sport adjustables, but that presents a new problem:

The adjustment **** is too large for the slot in the camber plate. Hmmm. The plastic **** doesn't seem robust enough to try to trim down with the dremel tool. Any other common tool that can be used?
Here's the old plate. You can see where the bearing pulled out of the urethane.
I use a 6mm 6-point deep 1/4" drive socket. It's quite a bit slimmer that the plastic tool they supply and fits perfectly.
I also drilled a ~5/8" hole in the rear frame rail and now I use a 5mm version with a thumbwheel ratchet to adjust the rears.
I also drilled a ~5/8" hole in the rear frame rail and now I use a 5mm version with a thumbwheel ratchet to adjust the rears.
I've had that happen with the IE plates as well. Sure, IE replaced them. They also replaced them when they sent the wrong size hardware with the original set. They might be inexpensive but I won't use them anymore, replaced with TSW plates. These IE ones have to many issues for this track rat.
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