Suspension pulled left, now pulls right!
pulled left, now pulls right!
Okay, I recently had some new suspension goodies installed (FSD, TSW springs, IE adj plates, 19mm rear bar). After having that done, the car could hold a straight line, but still clearly needed an alignment as the low speed feel can best be described as "wrong".
Took it to a local place that seemed to know what they were doing and got the alignment done:
Fr Camber: -1.62 -1.66
Fr Toe: 0.0 0.0
Rr Camber: -1.15 -0.95
Rr Toe: 0.6mm 0.7mm
However, after this the car was pulling to the left!
Took it back and asked them to do it again. Basically he just played a little with the front and rear toe trying to fine-tune it.
Now the car is pulling to the right!
Is this a suspension issue, or have I just found an incompetent technician?
I'm reluctant to take it back to the same shop, yet I'm also reluctant to pay multiple times for the same service.
Took it to a local place that seemed to know what they were doing and got the alignment done:
Fr Camber: -1.62 -1.66
Fr Toe: 0.0 0.0
Rr Camber: -1.15 -0.95
Rr Toe: 0.6mm 0.7mm
However, after this the car was pulling to the left!
Took it back and asked them to do it again. Basically he just played a little with the front and rear toe trying to fine-tune it.
Now the car is pulling to the right!

Is this a suspension issue, or have I just found an incompetent technician?
I'm reluctant to take it back to the same shop, yet I'm also reluctant to pay multiple times for the same service.
Okay, I recently had some new suspension goodies installed (FSD, TSW springs, IE adj plates, 19mm rear bar). After having that done, the car could hold a straight line, but still clearly needed an alignment as the low speed feel can best be described as "wrong".
Took it to a local place that seemed to know what they were doing and got the alignment done:
Fr Camber: -1.62 -1.66
Fr Toe: 0.0 0.0
Rr Camber: -1.15 -0.95
Rr Toe: 0.6mm 0.7mm
However, after this the car was pulling to the left!
Took it back and asked them to do it again. Basically he just played a little with the front and rear toe trying to fine-tune it.
Now the car is pulling to the right!
Is this a suspension issue, or have I just found an incompetent technician?
I'm reluctant to take it back to the same shop, yet I'm also reluctant to pay multiple times for the same service.
Took it to a local place that seemed to know what they were doing and got the alignment done:
Fr Camber: -1.62 -1.66
Fr Toe: 0.0 0.0
Rr Camber: -1.15 -0.95
Rr Toe: 0.6mm 0.7mm
However, after this the car was pulling to the left!
Took it back and asked them to do it again. Basically he just played a little with the front and rear toe trying to fine-tune it.
Now the car is pulling to the right!

Is this a suspension issue, or have I just found an incompetent technician?
I'm reluctant to take it back to the same shop, yet I'm also reluctant to pay multiple times for the same service.
. If someone screwed up
, like in your case, you did the right thing by taking it back, but it was not fixed. Try taking it somewhere else and see what they think. Also, shouldnt the tech be test driving the car afterwards to make sure his work is done correctly?
Last edited by drsilvermini; Sep 29, 2008 at 10:49 PM. Reason: spelling
As I mentioned, I just had a bunch of suspension work done, including getting rid of the mushrooming and preventing it's return with camber plates and M7 plates.
Yes, he should have, and believe me I am kicking myself for not insisting on it!
Turn a left corner, does the car now pull left? After that, turn right, the car should pull right. My IE adjustable plates did the same thing when they were new and occationally do it now almost 20,000 miles later. But at this point it is just the sign to re-lube the plates with some spray lube. Afterwards, they are fine for a a couple thousand miles.
So you might try lubing them.
So you might try lubing them.
Turn a left corner, does the car now pull left? After that, turn right, the car should pull right. My IE adjustable plates did the same thing when they were new and occationally do it now almost 20,000 miles later. But at this point it is just the sign to re-lube the plates with some spray lube. Afterwards, they are fine for a a couple thousand miles.
So you might try lubing them.
So you might try lubing them.

What area specifically needs the lube?
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In the center of the plate looking down the shock towers there is a small spherical bearing. I spray some silicon spray lube on that for about 5 seconds. It seems to help a lot. However, when the plates were new, they stuck like I described earlier. Lubing at that stage didn't do much. Just head to some twisties and break them in.
It had never bothered me because I never let both hands off of the wheel except to shift.
It had never bothered me because I never let both hands off of the wheel except to shift.
In the center of the plate looking down the shock towers there is a small spherical bearing. I spray some silicon spray lube on that for about 5 seconds. It seems to help a lot. However, when the plates were new, they stuck like I described earlier. Lubing at that stage didn't do much. Just head to some twisties and break them in.
It had never bothered me because I never let both hands off of the wheel except to shift.
It had never bothered me because I never let both hands off of the wheel except to shift.
You need to get an alignment that considers dog-legging and cross thrust. Just because you have camber and toe doesn't mean the car is square. It also doesn't account for your tires and road surfaces, which can cause havok with the straightline feel of the car. Most OEM alignments are such that the car will track straight on a road with a slight crown with OEM tires. Just changing the tires can necessitate a new alignment spec.
Have you been moving your tires from side to side & corner to corner?
A tire can have an internal belt seperation that causes a pull to one side...switch the tire...the pull also switches...move it to the back...pulls/pushes differently.
If it is a tire it is unsafe. Many manufacturers warrantee for this type of seperation.
A tire can have an internal belt seperation that causes a pull to one side...switch the tire...the pull also switches...move it to the back...pulls/pushes differently.
If it is a tire it is unsafe. Many manufacturers warrantee for this type of seperation.
You need to get an alignment that considers dog-legging and cross thrust. Just because you have camber and toe doesn't mean the car is square. It also doesn't account for your tires and road surfaces, which can cause havok with the straightline feel of the car. Most OEM alignments are such that the car will track straight on a road with a slight crown with OEM tires. Just changing the tires can necessitate a new alignment spec.
Have you been moving your tires from side to side & corner to corner?
A tire can have an internal belt seperation that causes a pull to one side...switch the tire...the pull also switches...move it to the back...pulls/pushes differently.
If it is a tire it is unsafe. Many manufacturers warrantee for this type of seperation.
A tire can have an internal belt seperation that causes a pull to one side...switch the tire...the pull also switches...move it to the back...pulls/pushes differently.
If it is a tire it is unsafe. Many manufacturers warrantee for this type of seperation.
Thanks for all the input! I am pretty sure it's just a matter having purchased "budget" adj. camber plates that needed some lube and breaking-in before they performed optimally.
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