I would appreciate anyone else out there with an OBD reader that can tap into the Hg boost/vac and tell me what are your readings at maximum load/rpm...my reading from the OBD in Hg (after conversion) doesn't correlate with my boost gauge in PSI so I'm not sure if my gauge is off...

Thanks

 

I have the safc which does pressure reading in HG. When it use to Pop the SES light which i thought was around the 18+ psi i was getting reading of 1.19 .. as of now i dont pop the light anymore im down to .89 but still putting down 215 whp accorrding to the dyno

 

hey Sid, just grabbed some quick numbers for ya........
its a lovely 91 degrees F here in Cali. ambient pressure (absolute) is around 29.3 inHg. At 100% load, 6,529 rpm, boost was at 57.4 inHg. hope that helps.

 

Thanks much...

 

That comes out to 13.8psi

I think I have a boost leak somewhere as I'm not able to break past 53 inHg...and this is with 15% pulley and 2% crank I've checked, double checked, tripple checked everything and am stomped...any ideas guys? Could my SC be toast? I know it lost it's coating a while ago but could that keep it from building boost?

I'll verify my actual boost later today when my digital boost gauge is delivered (0.1psi resolution)...

 

How much boost loss is caused by a larger Intercooler? I'm not trying to blame your new M7 DFIC as I'm sure its top notch. But how much loss should be expected from the use of it?

 

I've checked the boost readings of both DFIC and stock and the readings were about the same...I have problems elsewhere...



-Water leak down test revealed no leaks in either stock of DFIC units

-Intercooler boots are in very good condition

-Could a bad BPV cause boost leak?...I've gone back to using VGS to take advantage of positive valve pressure from boost.

 

Have you tried zip-tying the bpv closed? I felt a slight loss of power so I tried the zip-tie mod, the difference was like night and day. My boost gauge confirms a gain of about 1 psi and I get up to full boost much quicker under full load. I don't quite understand how the zip-tie mod could create increased boost as opposed to simply quicker boost, but it did. I'm getting my bpv replaced today!

I have tried a couple of boost gauges by the same manufacturer and they show slightly different readings, so I don't consider their numbers absolute. (Unless it was just my installation which is entirely possible.) So...minor threadjack...can anyone recommend an OBD reader that can tap into the Hg boost/vac? Thanks!

 

I don't recommend using the zip-tie fix as it will load your SC all the time and your output plenum's temperature will go through the roof (had a stuck bypass valve and found out the hard way).

I am using Auterra/Palm OBD diagnostic/reader to see the actual inHg...

 

Oops, thanks for the info...but just to diagnose the issue I mean...anyway I hope it helps in some way.

 

I'd say your BPV leaks a bit...

I've had the same problem, and changed for a DetroitTuned BPV. Full boost now and a happy driver lol

 

I'm going to check that when AGS-V3 shows up...I don't know how it could go out of adjustment since I checked it my self the last time I opened it up...

 

Does it close fully and the seal is good?

Also, the DetroitTuned BPV has a stiffer spring which really makes a huge difference. And the best part is that it didn't hit that much (in fact not at all) my fuel economy...

 

I'll have to see if Chad has one floatn around when he comes by tomorrow for our BBQ

 

Mystery solved...essentially...there was no mystery other than the Autometer's junk:impatient After installing the high resolution boost gauge, my reading proved to be normal...15.7psi normal max and sometimes reaching 16.2psi

The gauge was temporarily mounted next to the Autometer for comparison...it has since replaced it




The boost tap is directly from the DFIC. I will be rerouting the tap line to read from either pre-IC and/or post-IC in a few days...

 

Very nice Sid..... I'm glad it is all sorted out......

In the audio world we have three classifications

1) consumer
2) semi-pro
3) pro

and there is a 4th but not in my market - audiophile

the auto meter seems a bit questionable as to its intended market

 

I guess "Miniphile" equipment are harder to come by

 

Just out of curiousity, does your Autometer and digital gauge show the same readings or there is a little difference?

 

Difference? The Autometer goes "bzzzzzzz....12, no maybe 14, no maybe 15...naw just kiddn...how about 12 instead?":impatient It vibrates so badly that the only thing I can tell is that there is air in it The digital gauge is accurate to 0.1 and no BS inbetween...

BTW...anyone want to buy a used Autometer boost gauge? It's really not that bad

 

Hummm... That's strange...

My Autometer gauge is not doing that... Maybe yours is broken??

I,ve never had any problems with Autometer gauge, either in my Subaru or MCS

 

You probably have the electric version right? They're better but still not very accurate IMO...

 

I think you need to work on your sales pitch