I'm ready to do a tire rotation - first one on my MCS.

Question is, is there a spot on the MCS where you can use a floor jack to safely (both personal safety and safety to the car) jack up one side of the car with a single floor jack, or is it necessary to use a jack stand on one end, then jack up the other with the floor jack?

Thanks!

 

I use a floor jack all the time for this purpose. Just locate under one of the front jacking points and it will lift the entire side of the car.

 

If I were to lift the entire car up using jack stands where would be the best place for the floor jack? I can't fit the stands under the jack points while the jack is there.

Thanks
Forest

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...32&postcount=1

voila!

 

i can lift the entire single side of the car using the front jacking point.

 

Thanks everyone for the input, sounds like it won't be a problem.

Now, as a follow up question, any secret gotcha's on an MCS tire rotation? Or, is it just as basic as with any US made vehicle?

 

Standard stuff.. I did mine a couple of weeks ago.. Jacked up at the normal front jacking point and both tires lifted. Swap wheels... Torque to 85 - 90 Ft lbs... 88 optimal

 

Depending on where you live, exposure to moisture, etc., the wheels may stick to the hubs. If that happens, one solution is to slightly loosen the wheel bolts and roll the car forward or backward one complete wheel rotation to use the weight of the car to loosen the wheels from the hubs. To stop the wheels from sticking in the future, there are a number of approaches - cut patterns for the hubs out of wax paper is one that I have heard about and would probably use myself. Application of a very thin coat of anti-seize compound to the hub is another fix that I have heard about; but I would be concerned about the anti-seize compound migrating to the brake rotors. Or, you could just do the loosen the wheel bolts and roll the car forward or backward thing again....

 

If the hubcentric rings are not lubed, they WILL stick to the hubs, fiercely at times. My first time I had to wail on a few of the tires with a rubber mallet for several minutes before it finally broke free.
Just a light coating of grease on the mating surface (I put it on the wheel as that's a bit easier than the hub) and it won't be a problem in the future.

 

Good info, I have been wondering about this for some time.

 

I also always use grease on the hubs. I also put a dab on the end of the lug bolts for easy removal next time.

 

I have always been under the impression that grease on your lugs is a no-no. Anti-seize is different from grease as it does not interfere with building and maintaining torque. Am I wrong?

 

Grease and Anti-Seize will do the same thing, but grease will "coke" (partially combust) if you're braking aggressively. You can also elt the nylon wheel centering rings that way. A THIN coating of anti-seize will do the trick on lug nut threads, and be sure to check 'em every 3kmiles. The wax paper thing is a good idea, but again if you're racing or doing a lot of mountain driving you'll cook the paper. I leave the hubs dry - also don't want any of that stuff migrating onto the brake rotors...

USE A TORQUE WRENCH! Even if the tire shop tells you the "torque bars" they use limit the torque on the lugs, it's not entirely true. EVERY TIME a wheel is off the vehicle, tighten lugs to wrench-tight, then torque to spec with a hand torque wrench, 88 ft-lb. Evenly tightened lug nuts will help keep rotors from warping (no foolin' - from experience, not an "old wives tale").