As GoMiniGo said the new BPV set screw is secured so well it splits when an attempt is made to back it out. FWIW the part # on the box is the same as the old one and has the added sticker that GoMiniGo mentioned. There are a few different details in construction from the other BPVs I’ve worked with.

stustan, if you want the one I have I’ll be glad to send it to you; it’s already adjusted. My under hood project has been delayed and the current BPV is only hesitating and not completely failed.

 

I am not exactly sure which post I have read this on [their have been so many] but someone has said that they are applying some heat to the threadlock to break the adjustment screw free so it can be worked on. No specifics were given as of type of heat to do this. I assume that they were using a heat gun or possibly propane to do this. Anyone out there know the answer? Thanks

 

Thanks for the offer but my dealer has been doing his best to help me and I have the patience to wait a bit longer

 

Got mine all fixed!

The tech confirmed that the bypass valve, or "shut-off valve" as they are called by BMW, was sticking open. It was replaced with the old bypass valve according to the part number. I also got the new ECU version the tech said was v44. He said it took about 15 minutes, which is longer than normal. Either v44 is big, or I had an older than normal version. Note with the new version, when I turn the key to the off position, the dome light doesn't come on. It will only come on when I open the door.

My sheet says the following:
CONCERN 51: CUST STATES EML LIGHT ON
CAUSE: FAULTY
CORRECTION: CHECKED CODES ON DME FOUND CODE P1688 FOR BYPASS VALVE.
COMMENT: CHECKED FOR VACUUM LEAKS. NONE PRESENT. FOUND BULLETIN PERTAINING TO CODE BULLETIN #M12 200 04 REPLACED SUPERCHARGER BYPASS VAVLE.
TECH NOTES: REPROGRAMMED DME WITH CURRENT SOFTWARE. ALIGNED EWS AND CODE MOTRONIC.
CLEARED DAULTS (should be faults) FROM DME. RESET ADAPTATIONS. TEST DRIVE O.K. AT THIS TIME.
PART NUMBER: BMW 11 61 1 501 973
DESCRIPTION: VALVE
SELL: 37.05

 

I’m looking forward to see what comes of the “new” part number because I’ve experienced surprise changes before. A look back through my records shows the same 11-61-1-501-937 number for all the BPVs I’ve replaced in the past 2 years. The latest version has a different hose and butterfly plate screws from the ones I’ve adjusted. The local parts dept. doesn’t show any superceded information but says they have replaced a bunch in the past few months.

 

Oh, apparently I read this wrong; I have the OLD bypass valve. The tech told me it was a *new* one though.

 

Grrr!!! they now are in fact shipping the old one along with the new one. And lucky me gets the old one. Interchangeable according to the regional tech. Also, that tech says there is nothing wrong with the old one. BULLscheise! If there was nothing wrong it, why the national ship freeze, why the national back order, why the new p/n, why are we having problems....

Don't expect a recall on this. Not a safety or emissions problem. Although pulling out into traffic expecting it to go and it not going is a definite issue to me. Just wait until someone gets hurt. Can you say 'class action'?

When someone gets a new one, please post a pic.

PO'd,

GMG

 

Just keep on trucking until it fails. When it does, get it fixed citing the above service bulletin.

 

true, but I am out of warranty. 55k miles on Wuf. This is an out of pocket expense.

Only good news is that parts bought through the dealer come with a two year unlimited mileage warranty.

At least I can do this myself. Dealer wants big $ for labor.

GMG

 

i still have yet to see a new valve, but I'll work on the new part number in the next few days.

i just had a car come into the shop for repair. his bypass valve is sticking open, giving a whole bunch of codes, and no power at all. he is so feed up with the dealer that he is having me install a new valve into his car this weekend. this car only had 7,000 miles and is only a few months old. more info for everyone.

 

Update on the car that was here this weekend. The ByPass Valve was cracked where the butterfly rod went thru the housing. it caused the valve to stick open. i'll try to get some shots up tomorrow.

 

Replaced mine yesterday. Even though it is the old p/n, the driveability of the car is much improved.

Now I am real curious to see what the new p/n looks/performs like.

GMG

 

My dealer called me this afternoon to say the updated bypass valve is in transit from Germany, due to arrive tomorrow (Wednesday). He will call me when it arrives and will install immediately (probably Thursday). I sure hope this cures my car and I can once again enjoy my toy. I wouldn't know the old valve from the new, so if anyone gets the new valvle (agokart, in particular) and can campare old and new, please describe the differences.

 

Bring the digi along, take pics

 

The updated bypass valve was installed today and as soon as I let up on the clutch I knew my car was fixed. The car felt great and I have to thank everyone on the forum for their advice and help. My dealer was actually happier than me! He diagnosed the bypass valvle correctly but was skeptical due to a lack of error codes. I did not see what the new updated bypass valve looks like, due to the size of the repair shop and how busy it was this morning, sorry no pics either. I was able to examine my old bypass valve and it did not close completely. I am now going for a looooooong drive.

 

Has anyone seen the bypass valve with the new 535 suffix numbers? Did the service report show the new number when you had yours replaced stustan?

The local parts department is still receiving the old numbered units as of this past week. I ordered one with the new number and the parts department ordered five on top of that to see if the inventory would be depleted enough to get a new one in the mix for next week.

 

I have gotten both part numbers, and still to date they are all the same. they are all adjusted different and have the same small spring. i buy 10 at a time, and have been for the last year or so. i would guess that if there was a new design out that we would have seen it by now since there was a time just a while back where you could not get them (they were on back order). i just picked up 10 yesterday and they are all the same. hope this helps.

Chad
Detroit Tuned
586-296-6001

 

Agokart
Are you finding that your new supply of BPV'S are coming with a stronger threadlock material? If so would you care to let us know what you do to loosen the adjuster screw to be able to adjust the butterfly. Thanks for your help.
P.S. I know that some people are just filing the end of the screw to get the adjustment but I think it would be more precise to be able to use the screw for the intended function.

 

I use a propane torch to heat it up just a bit. i heat it for less than 20 seconds and use an allen to back it out. it's a wax like thread locker and with a bit of heat it will flake right off. NOTE: do not touch it after heating it as it will be hot. back out the set screw and let it cool.

All the BPV have been coming with this locker for the last 6 months or more. without heat you will break the set screw as it is a cast item. i know, i have broken a few in my day. i have a supply of set screws here for replacement if that happens during rebuild.

 

i used a propane torch after splitting the adjustment screw. One question tho...i had the plate out and the shaft was horizontal. However, with the plate in, the spindle wasn't hitting the adjustment screw, cos the side of the plate keeps getting caught on the wall of the BPV. Hopefully time will see the eroding of the plate so it closes flush.

 

your plate is misaligned. it will hurt function and cause leaks till fixed.

 

Hi folks

Took a long look at how everything was connected last weekend but thought i'd ask a few more questions before attempting this:

Any help appreciated.

a) is the tricky part of this bpv fix, getting the bpv bolted back onto the i/c horn? or bolting the i/c horn back onto the manifold?

b) Any issues with unbolting/ re-bolting the 4 bolts that connect the Throttlebody? i rememeber reading somewhere that putting this thing back on is scary incase u break some plastic thingo?

c) Are they'r any parts of this (bpv, t/b, i/c horn or manifold) that are more delicate than usual and can be easily broken if not handled properly?

Cheers

 

there are no tricks or parts to break, but if you are not comfortable doing an install like this you should find a quality installer. as there are always parts that need a certain way to be taken off and installed. a mechanic would know these or with the directions we include with every bypass valve we sell you should be able to install it. hope that helps.

 

i spent 2 hours trying to realign the plate, nothing i did could fix it, i even lubed up both the plate and the wall, made no difference. I played around with it, fiddling with the three screws the whole time....and no way i'm gonna take off my BPV again, it took sooo long to refit everything...

 

Pictures of the different BPV builds. In the three BPV picture the one on the left has slotted screws, the middle is the same 937# but has flare staked T10 screws and a minor casting difference, the one on the right is the latest 535# and has a different body casting and stop limiter. In the other two pictures are close ups of the differences between the 937 and 535.