Hey - great pictures - thanks for putting them up!

After seeing pictures of several new bypass valves here on NAM, all of them seem to have similar adjustment from the factory. Has anyone ever considered that they are adjusted like that *on purpose* for some reason? Maybe there is a reason that they don't slam shut all the way, and leave a slight gap. Maybe drivability for the average driver, or gas mileage, or ???

It's just hard to believe that the QC on these things is that bad, especially since the adjustment screw is evidently painted with loc-tite or similar. Someone must be adjusting them in the manufacturing process.

 

(by Ann Elk): I have a theory about the QC thing. Given how much time some of us spend on "improving" our MINIs, and given how many people who own MINIs don't seem to notice or care about the throttle response or YoYo or anything much else of detail about their cars, and given the MSRP of a MCS, I think it's very reasonable for BMW/MINI to make the decision to accept a relatively wide range of settings as standard for the BPV. QC is an economic decision, not a moral one.

I personally have not noticed any decrease in fuel consumption (below my standard 23mpg!) but have noticed substantial improvement in partial throttle response from both the VGS and Ryephix mods.

cheers,

 

Excellent photos and description - I think I may have similar need to adjust my '05 MCS - giving me a little "stumble around 2800-3500 rpm - became more noticible adding the MTH software V6 - a little better with MTH V7 (or I'm adapting with MY driving atyle) - but the stumble still remains. This may be the answer, sounds fairly common. I'm interested in your feedback after installation. Thanks for taking the time to post ~ very appreciated!

 

I don't know - I have a hard time with this theory because of the fact that since the valve has to be adjusted when they're assembling it, why wouldn't they adjust it correctly, i.e. to the same tolerance? I might buy this if it was a non-adjustable part and there was some manufacturing tolerance that could be off (again, hard to believe in today's manufacturing world) but since this is obviously an adjustable assembly which comes with the adjustment "pre-set" and loc-tited, someone is setting it that way on purpose.

 

pulling the spring apart and making it longer will not help that much. after you put it back together and run the car a while the spring will return to the old height. we know, we tried it. it's a bit better if you add two of the same springs into there, but no much. you need the thicker wire dia.

and while we think this is a problem, BMW doesn't. on most bone stock cars, with bone stock drivers, it's just fine. but when you add parts, or want more out of your car, we have found a way to make them better. if you are happy with your BPV than by all means don't do anything to it. every car responds to the Detroit Tuned Bypass Valve a bit different, but ever car gets more power and a better Throttle response. hope that helps.

Chad

 

Seems like logical conclusion BUT do we have enough experience to say that BPV's are indeed adjusted with consistent settings from the factory?

Chad or Rye care to chime in on this? What have you guys seen when modifying BPV's?

EDIT: Too fast for my post Chad

 

great photos
curious to see how long this fix will last if the spring reverts back to normal........

 

Well-said and I agree.

 

OK. here is the $5 fix until the real part arrives....which I hope is REAL soon.

Yes, it is crude but effective. And yes, I have lost about 2-3 MPG on the highway. It is a fairly weak spring so it should allow the valve to open. I adjusted it so that it just closes the valve when the car is off.

I also noticed tonight that the bracket was rubbing my air duct. Hopefully the tape will help.

Come on MINI, I want a new BPV that will not do this again!!!

The spring came out of a "HELP" throttle return springs package #59002 from a local auto parts store.

Mickey mouse engineering by GMG

 

Hello!!
I finally installed my new adjusted bypass valve today. It took me 2 hours to do the job and I took a few pictures. I used the instructions on this thread and everyting went well. The only problem that took me time was the top BMW clip that holds the bypass valve to the bull horn, because it was facing inward and it was tricky to pry open with the screw driver. Well, I replaced the original bypass valve spring with a stronger one from a car's rear brake's hold- down spring that I got from a shop, and I molded it to a shape similar as to the original one with plyers. I guess it was a little too strong because I really had to push with my fingers to open the bypass valve flap. I took pictures of the brake's hold-down spring and it looked a little bit taller than the original one, but before I put it back on the BPV case I lowered it to the same height as the original one. I put everything back as the bypass How to instructions say and there was no problem at all. You need to be careful not to cut yourself with the razor sharp corner of the bull horn piece. I inspected the old bypass valve and the adjustment is wayyyyyy off and specially for a MCS of July 2005. Closed my hood, turned the car on, and there are no problems and no air leaks so far. The car now goes up to full RPM range without any hesitation, it got more power, and no more flat spot.

 

bypass valve spring photos from a brake's hold down spring. Before I put it on the case I reduced the high to the original one.

 

A good test to see if your spring is too strong or too weak is to take a look at the BPV with the engine off. It should be closed. With the engine idling, it should be open.

 

More photos from the install

 

More photos of bpv installation.

 

In reading over the last six pages it has become clear to me that the problem is one & only one thing, I've seen it many times & it's happened to me once, The Problem "Inverted Polarity" brought about by "Internal Osmosis" not easy to find & even harder to fix....... :impatient

 

Thanks for the tip I will check it later, and what about it is too strong? will damage something? Wp4ldu

 

I don't think you'll damage anything, but it may not open up when you want it to - hence worse fuel economy.

 

Thanks Andy,
I check and it is working properly, it's closed with the engine off, and with the engine idling it is open. Also, this is the old bypass valve that I removed today from my July 2005 MCS.

 

We sold our last two valves last night and was able to get some more valves to mod. so they are back in stock! but from what i hear, they are still on national back order. i know one customer said his dealer told him that they were updating the valves and that is why you can not get them right now, but my parts guy had no record of it and still only shows one part number. so i can not say that there is any truth to it yet. only time will tell..... 9 left.

 

Merry christmas!!
Today, I road tested my Mini on the Autobahn and the Mini is working perfect and the yoyo or hesitation have disappear. The DSC light came on in 6th gear at 5500 RPM but I pulled over and restarted the car and cleared the DSC light.. I guess the bypass valve is doing his job keeping the boost up. The Mini have more boost and power and also my wife noticed the difference in power. This is the way the Mini should come from factory.

 

That is the exact problem I had last night and this morning... to a t...especially with the SES light going off...

 

Yeah...I had the same problem. Started when I accelerated hard on a highway ramp. The car shut down. You have to shut it off and restart it to get it going again. The worst occasion was on the way to have it replaced...the car shut down on the highway in morning rush-hour traffic. Luckily, I drifted off into the shoulder, re-started while still rolling and continued on to the dealership. Had it fixed, no issues since .

 

Hi all,

The new BPV's are now shipping. Just got mine today.

The new (?) spring is definitely stronger than my old 'broken' one. Is it stronger than a good one, don't know.

The butterfly was centered but still did not close to a full seat. The set screw material is crap and fractures when you try to adjust it. So a quick file to the screw face of maybe ten thousands now allows a nice seal.

My MA swears they are of a new design but are still shipping under the old p/n with a supersede notation. My new does have a sticker saying 150937.05 39/05. If I interpret that correctly, that means that this is revision 05 built in ww39 of 2005. In Italy!!! list price $74.47.

Looks like Saturday's project is a BPV replacement. I will report on the post install test drive then.

hope this helps...

GMG

 

Add me to the list. I experienced the SES/EML at 4500rpm. Bypass was stuck wide open.

Took it to the dealer, who "replaced bypass valve and reprogrammed the DME". I haven't picked it up yet, but I'll let you know the results.

 

Saw GoMiniGo's post this morning and took a copy to my dealer, I am waiting for a new bypass valve also. My dealer and I looked on his DCSnet/Parts Availiability and Inventory Inquiry program and saw that the new Bypass Valve is still on national backorder and all old Bypass Valves are on National Freeze.

The new Bypass Valve # is 11 61 4 543 535
The old Bypass Valve # is 11 61 1 501 937

My dealer is not sure what your number is but we both hope your new valve puts you back on the road with a smile.

Many thanks to agokart at Detroit Tuned for all his help and info on the phone, if the new Bypass Valves do not ship soon I will order one of your valves and my dealer said he would install it for me.

I will continue posting on this thread, my previous thread was "Loss of low end power, suggestions please" for all those who might want to see the suggestions and replies.