Hurry up guys!

Only 5 left of those masterpieces!

 

an option to being on backorder...weld it shut ensuring no leaks.

 

Barry,

give a call again. part of your number was cut off in the message.

chad
Detroit Tuned
586-484-1158 cell

 

Got mine fixed about a month or so back. My SA said the fix was to grind down the stock valve, so that it wouldn't get stuck against the part it was getting stuck against anymore. He said the 'mod' fixed the problem, and likely added boost due to the ligher valve.

Don't know if it's related, but I dyno'd my Mini a week ago... all I have is a cold air intake, and I pulled 171 at the wheels, the same as two other Mini owners with intakes, pullies, and exhausts. I'm really beginning to believe the bypass valve mod has something to do with it.

 

On my drive home (about 2 miles from work) I noticed a little delay when going from 2nd to 3rd. Thought that was peculiar, but then a mile or so later lost just about all power, SES light, EML light and DSC lights were lit. Little to no response from the pedal, so I quickly pulled to the right then off into the grass. Checked the manual then restarted only to have it reoccur 1 mile or so down the road. I was unwilling to "limp" 50 miles home when the Mini dealer was 25 miles away so I had it towed via Roadside assistance (AKA AAA). Could not be throttle body motor as it would rev upon restarting (right?). I also called the service department and someone there told me he had heard of this one other time so hopefully they have some BPV in stock. Last time they kept my car for a week I drove a 2006 BMW 535 (or was it a 540 - whatever it takes). I don't think I want a Mini tech or anyone else just grinding away on engine components - I see images of Orange County Choppers. Those guys fix everything with a grinder or a hammer!

 

This is exactly what happened to mine (with 1350 miles on the clock...). As soon as I revved to 4k, it would go into limp mode and stay there until I restarted the engine. In my case, the BPV was sticking (or so I'm told) and a new one fixed the job (on the 2nd trip to the dealership, mind you).

 

I talked with my SA and he said the BPV service beulletin is only for automatics. My question is do any of you guys have manuals with this same trouble?

I am not getting a good feeling about the SA's attitude towards customer service. It was there since 8:00 last night and they haven't touched it yet and it now 2:00.

Stranded motorists should get prority I would think at the very least just to as some level of apeasment (sp?).

 

Not true. It happened to my manual '05 MCS. I was told that at the time mine was in for this repair, the service *measure* had just been released. The *bulletin* comes after the measure "matures", I guess. Either way, this problem happened on my manual tranny car.

 

Are you talking about Hendrick MINI? I've always had good experiences with them. They've always had the car ready when they said they would.

 

I got the Car back Friday night and they said it was the BPV and there was a service bulletin. Maybe he just didn't want to admit I knew what Iwas talking about on the phone - who knows.

I do think I will stick with my alternate Mini dealer in W-S as opposed to the guys in the queen city. I just get a better feel from them, could be nothing though. Maybe had they cleaned it or offered me anything at all for my troubles (sitting in the cold car for 1.5 hours in 38 degree rain weather and then having to drive across town to pick up the car and then back the next day to pick up my other car).

 

FIXED MINE!

After taking my BPV off and adjusting the butteryfly and the set screw, it now closes fully. However, the spring was definitely not strong enough to close it all the way, even off the car.

Well, until the new dealer part arrives, I bought a universal throttle return spring and got it all situated with just enough force to close the valve. Definitely not as elegant as the Detroit Tuned version, but it works.

After a couple of test drives, no more engine lights, just full throttle acceleration!!!

Happy camper now! my car is back!

GMG

 

I have a MCSa 2006 that was built in in Sept. and Picked up in Oct. and I drove it for 130 miles (3 days old) my EML light with check engine light came on and lost all engine power. I had it roadside assistance
Tow it to the local BMW/MINI service center in Miami, FL. They told me Don't worry its a common problem. all I need is a software upgrade we'll take care of it right away. that they seen Minis come out of the dealers with 0 miles and a this problem having to customers down the block. he said "all you need is a software upgrade."
I got my car back after waiting 1.5 hours and it drove home fine.

The next day at about 180 miles(4 days old) my fiance test drove the mini, we were going to a new Costco down the block. When she went to pull into the parking space. the throttle accelerated full. and the mini hopped the curb and hit a tree. THANK GOD THAT THERE WASN'T A CHILD WALKING IN BETWEEN THE CAR AND THE TREE.

So I had the MCS only 180 miles and its been in the shop for 2 months now. the whole front needs to be replaced and the engine block is cracked. $14,000.00 of damages.

At this point I don't want this particular MCS I want a new one I feel unsafe driving this car.
2 months and no loaner and my insurance rates might go up with a claim that technically not my fault.
Does anyone have the same problem where the throttle gets stuck or accelerates for no reason?

 

to be helpful, this post is really in the wrong thread to get any good feedback. repost it in mini talk and you will get more looks and better help. also sorry to hear about your mini. your know that the throttle is drive by wire, so if the throttle sticks open, the computer would have to go hay wire, or something would have to break inside the throttle body servo or something get jammed in there.

chad

 

OK, just completed a 300 mile round trip with spring in place. Cost = ~2.5 MPG decrease.

Now a question for all the tech guys:

Is the 'normal' position of the BPV fully closed when the car is off? Little thought running through my mind is that the diaphragm may actually push the valve closed when under boost. Or is the spring supposed to be just strong enough to keep the valve closed when the car is off? Without my little helper spring, mine is has about 3/8" gap between the adjustable stop and the valve flange. So mine either has a bad spring or bad diaphragm or both.

As a side note, my cars seemingly deadly bog when trying to accelerate from a stop when the engine is cold is gone. Many times the car almost stalled during my initial pull out into traffic with no blipping of throttle making it go. It felt like my old Triumph with not enough manual choke applied.

This is certainly an interesting little device that really effects the way the car drives.

Also, I cannot tell if I am getting more yo-yo or not. I think I am just more sensitive to it now. It was never a 'perceivable' problem before. I think when I replace the BPV, I will add the vacuum hose fix.

GMG

 

The bypass valve is closed when the car is off, because it is only open when vacuum is present. hence the car has no vacuum when the car is off. the spring will always close the valve to the closed position when off vacuum, when the car is turned off or under boost. your 3/8 measurement is when the car is running or not running? while i have never looked to see how far it opens when running. the valve stop should be fully against the stop set screw to be fully closed, this is assuming that your set screw is adjust correctly. the only way to see if it is adjusted correctly is to take the valve off and look at it up to a light.

as for your cold bog issue. i find from time to time in really cold temps that my car will get a bit of bog, but only in really cold temps. and your supposed to let the car warm up a few minutes anyways to get things up to temp in really cold weather. once it has about a minute then everything is fine. i only find it happens after my car spends the night outside in the winter. it likes the heated garage much better.

hope that helps.
chad

 

Yeah, thanks! It is kind of what I thought.

the 3/8" gap is when the car is off. So my spring must have seen its better, more productive days.

I did adjust the butterfly and set screw when I had the BPV off the car. With the addition of the throttle spring, it is definitely closed when the engine is off.

My bog was happening all the time from a dead cold start. Now with a closed BPV, all is SO much better.

GMG

 

Hello!!
I took these pictures to a (BRAND NEW) bypass valve from the box before and after adjustment.

 

That's wild ... looks like an eclipse!

 

What'd your "adjustment" consist of?

 

sorry

 

Important thread, thanks for starting it

Getting to this late, but I experienced this problem WAY back in late '03/'04.

Don't know if Ryephile remebers or not, but back at Minzila's place (Galion, OH pulley party) Rye & I talked about the problem. He had a look the BPV on my MCS. When Rye attempted to actuate the BPV (by hand) he commented was that it was gritty & sticking & that it shouldn't feel that way.

After the PP I told my SA about the issue, but no dice. 6 months of continued issues later MINI finally replaced the BPV underwarranty. But not before I'd made umpteen visits to the dealer & been given all sorts of excuses... everything from non-stock T/B to sparkplugs being the cause Been golden ever since.

It sure sucks when a 'new' issue like this one crops up. Glad to see its now well documented

Any other considerations on the issue? Exactly what's going wrong with the BPV to make them malfuntion - aside from what I can only assume must be wonderful QC at the factory?

 

Hello!!
This is a brand new bypass valve that I ordered from my local BMW dealer here in Germany, and to my surprise came unadjusted. I will post a few more pictures of the bypass valve adjustments. To adjust the bypass valve you have to remove the paint from the bypass stopper bolt to be able to unscrew it, and adjust the bolt until the flap is closed to the max on the bypass valve. Second, only loosen a little bit the two screws on the bypass valve flap with a TORX T10 screwdriver, put a flashlight behind the valve flap and manually move the bypass valve flap until is closed enough so that no light is coming from the flashlight to the front. I also put my mouth on one of the sides of the valve to gently blow air into it and listen for air leaks. When you can't blow any more air across the flap you are set. Lock the 2 set screws on the flap by using few drops of blue or red locktite, and also put few drops on the bypass set screw stopper bolt. I havent installed the new bypass valve on my Mini yet but I will tomorrow and I will post my impressions. I couldn't find a stronger spring for the bypass valve, so I streched out the same spring and put it back in the same place. To open the cove for the spring I used a nailcliper tip to pry on the tabs. I will post more pictures to better explain the how I did it. WP4LDU

 

Bypass valve photos set 2

 

Supercharger bypass valve photos set 3

 

Supercharger bypass valve photos.