Help me out with this dang driver side strut assembly.
Help me out with this dang driver side strut assembly.
How the heck do you compress the strut assembly enough to get it out? Yesterday I had the car up and jacked up underneath the A arm to compress the assembly, threw my spring compressors on the already compressed spring and tightened them down as much as they would go (ie, the two clamps on the compressor were touching each other and couldn't be threaded any tighter). When I let the suspension down again the bottom of the strut still had a good half inch before it would come out of the spindle. Do I just need better spring compressors or what? I've got the Harbor Freight cheapo special so maybe they don't compress as much as they should. I'd heard of some people using tie down straps to hold the spring, but that turned into a logistical nightmare when I tried to wrap those around the spring.
Any help would be great. I'm about to just go out and buy a lot of thick zip-ties and call it a day.
Any help would be great. I'm about to just go out and buy a lot of thick zip-ties and call it a day.
Shorten the tie down strap until it is about 3 feet long. Hook the "s" hook ends to the top of the spring cover plate. Compress the spring with a floor jack. Tighten the strap that is looped around the bottom spring base. Remove strut. Install spring compressor on spring, remove strap and then undo the compressor. Hope that helps, I have done many Mini's like that.
If you have a Bentley manual it tells you to disconnect the tie rod and control arm. I did this and the strut falls right out. I used a block of wood and a ten pound sledge hammer to release pressed on ball joint. Keep on hitting and it finally drops - no damage is done. Good luck
You can avoid the need for a ball joint remover by removing the control arm to strut ball joint by the two bolts at the bottom of the strut. Use something to pry the ball joint assembly from the strut an you should get all the clearance you need without popping any ball joints. I don't think you need to disconnect the tie rod. You can jack the hub up at the rotor to compress the spring while you release the control arm and ball joint.
I use two endless loop ratcheting tie downs for getting the driver’s side out and a cedar plank wedged on a jack to get it in. I once used a two by four with the rotor as a fulcrum; I don’t recommend that procedure. At some point in the 03-model year the driver’s side got easier for whatever reason.
Trending Topics
k-huevo,
That is correct, I helped a buddy with an early 03 and the drivers side was a problem until we undid the two bolts mentioned by 002. When we did my 04 the both sides just dropped out with no spring compressors or anything.
Bill
That is correct, I helped a buddy with an early 03 and the drivers side was a problem until we undid the two bolts mentioned by 002. When we did my 04 the both sides just dropped out with no spring compressors or anything.
Bill
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
R50/53 2002 R53 Creaking/Clacking
maestro39
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
3
Oct 27, 2015 02:38 PM
RACEnSK8
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
2
Aug 31, 2015 01:08 PM



