P0597: Thermostat Heater Control Circuit/Open
P0597: Thermostat Heater Control Circuit/Open
Had this pop up yesterday, read/cleared the MIL with my BlueDriver.
Popped back up today on my drive in to work.
Simple as a thermostat replace? Or is there more to it?
Popped back up today on my drive in to work.
Simple as a thermostat replace? Or is there more to it?
Ran the BlueDriver on the drive home
Ambient temps: high 70s to low 80s
IATs: 96-111
ECTs: 196-207
Briefly looked under the hood, nothing looks remotely accessible & a quick browse of ECS, doesnt look like a typical thermostat replacement. Have to replace the entire housing?
Ambient temps: high 70s to low 80s
IATs: 96-111
ECTs: 196-207
Briefly looked under the hood, nothing looks remotely accessible & a quick browse of ECS, doesnt look like a typical thermostat replacement. Have to replace the entire housing?
Hello,
Unplug the connection and replug them in on the electrical. Some of the connection and pins on those units. If that still does not work then its a bad thermostat.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ode-p0597.html
Unplug the connection and replug them in on the electrical. Some of the connection and pins on those units. If that still does not work then its a bad thermostat.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ode-p0597.html
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Thanks, I'll try that first before spending any $ on replacement parts.
Anyone have a photo/diagram of what I'm looking at? Didn't see anything obvious in a cursory look under the hood yesterday.
Anyone have a photo/diagram of what I'm looking at? Didn't see anything obvious in a cursory look under the hood yesterday.
Yep, check those pins also as they like to bend. If their are straight and even then its a new thermostat housing.
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All looked good & clean best I could tell in the limited space in there.
I saw that the tstat options on @ECSTuning all say an adapter/replacement wire/connector is needed. Does this replace one of the wires, or jump from the existing to the replacement tstat?
I saw that the tstat options on @ECSTuning all say an adapter/replacement wire/connector is needed. Does this replace one of the wires, or jump from the existing to the replacement tstat?
For select models on their first replacement you will need that adapter. If its been replaced before you will see that adapter already installed on your car.
For vehicles with production from 6/2010 to 3/2012 Base/JCW models will require ES2558172 if this is the first time being replaced. Check your production date: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select put your last 7 digit here and this will tell you.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2010-...ngine/Cooling/
Thanks
Mike
For vehicles with production from 6/2010 to 3/2012 Base/JCW models will require ES2558172 if this is the first time being replaced. Check your production date: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select put your last 7 digit here and this will tell you.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2010-...ngine/Cooling/
Thanks
Mike
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@ECSTuning
Can you confirm the adapter harness isn't needed for a late '09 build?
Also, for the group, what's the coolant type for these, and capacity?
Can you confirm the adapter harness isn't needed for a late '09 build?
Also, for the group, what's the coolant type for these, and capacity?
Nope not needed based of MINI etk.
MINI coolant will be G48 coolant (same as oem MINI) this is the blue coolant. Mix 50/50 with distilled water if concentrate. I used one MINI 1 Gallon bottle and mixed it 50/50. 2 gallons total. That was enough to do the job.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...formation.html
MINI coolant will be G48 coolant (same as oem MINI) this is the blue coolant. Mix 50/50 with distilled water if concentrate. I used one MINI 1 Gallon bottle and mixed it 50/50. 2 gallons total. That was enough to do the job.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...formation.html
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Last edited by ECSTuning; Mar 25, 2025 at 01:17 PM.
2 hours & some colorful commentary later, it's done with no leaks & no CEL.
Overall not a bad job, the hose clamps were a small pain, but the clip for the water pipe flange took the most time. Easy to remove, massive pain to reinstall.
Everything is in the way of getting the clip in place. Finally got it started with a pair of needlenose pliers & slipped it on by hand afterwards
Overall not a bad job, the hose clamps were a small pain, but the clip for the water pipe flange took the most time. Easy to remove, massive pain to reinstall.
Everything is in the way of getting the clip in place. Finally got it started with a pair of needlenose pliers & slipped it on by hand afterwards
That clip was the only real pain of the process.
I'd guess I tried at it for nearly 1/2 hour before getting it on.
No issues on the run to work this morning, got a little hot but kicking the A/C on brought the ECT down. Got up to about 230 in stop/go heavy traffic when I kicked the AC on to get the fan pulling air though the rad.
What's the normal operating hot range on these?
I'd guess I tried at it for nearly 1/2 hour before getting it on.
No issues on the run to work this morning, got a little hot but kicking the A/C on brought the ECT down. Got up to about 230 in stop/go heavy traffic when I kicked the AC on to get the fan pulling air though the rad.
What's the normal operating hot range on these?
Yes these Gen 2 MINIs cars run hot. My JCW in the summer sit at 219. When i put it in sport mode or run the A/C it drops.
Thanks
Thanks
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172

MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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