OK. Now I'm officially po'd. Took my 2004 MC40 in to have it aligned after mounting new tires. Prior to the alignment today, the steering wheel was turned slightly left in order for it to go straight. Post-alignment the steering was turned even further left for it to go straight. Obviously, drove it right back to the shop (after they test drove it and somehow didn't discover it still had a problem) and told them they did ****-poor work. The alignment "specialist" came out with the manager and said the car was veering right when I brought it in. Duh! That's why I brought it in. The shop then went on a soliloquy about it not having caster and camber adjustments and all they were able to adjust was the toe-in (I knew this already). That was two and a half hours of my life I'll never get back! However, when I look in my Bentley manual, it details all sorts of settings for toe-in, caster and camber (it does actually spec through 2006 so I'm assuming caster/camber adjustments are possible on later models). I provided a copy to the alignment shop. I'm also not interested in adding camber/caster devices because they're simply not necessary or the factory would have installed them when built. I've had my Mini aligned before and had no problems. I should also note that the entire suspension has been rebuilt including all bushings, struts/springs, etc. Who among you have some brilliant advice on how to approach proper alignment because it appears that most shops are clueless and I'm not about to take it to a stealership. Help!

 

Over the years I have found I have to *request* the steering wheel be centered in order for it to be centered when I get the car back. Some techs *eyeball* the steering wheel but I've see special steering wheel *levels* used.

One has to be careful. I had one car, a new car, for which I asked the steering wheel be centered. When I got it back it didn't look centered. As I drove the car and took in the dash it became clear to me the wheel was centered the wheel spokes level it was the dash which was at a slight angle. This was the way the car was made, not a bad dash install.

Caster plays a role in how straight -- or not -- the car tracks. Don't have the caster call out for the MINI but for another car the caster setting was for both front wheels 8 deg +/- 30 minutes with a side to side difference of 40 minutes.

(Years ago it was not unknown for a car to arrive with the two front wheels having caster differences. This was intentional and intended to counter the effect of driving on heavily crowned roads.)

A number of cars don't have caster adjustment per se. But with some cars the strut fasteners can be loosened and the strut top moved forward or backward and side to side to change -- slightly -- caster and camber. But with caster just small changes should be all that is required provided the steering/suspension bushings are good.

Also, I found I got the *best* alignment when I asked for and received a *before* and *after* printout of the alignment settings and their actual values.

 

Thanks, appreciate the input. Centering the steering wheel and ensuring the tires are aired properly are the very first things every alignment shop should do prior to an alignment. I'm afraid I took it to a bunch of yahoos though you would think a Firestone shop could be trusted to do it right. I have called a shop that did a correct alignment before even though they are much further away since I've moved. Hopefully my luck with them will continue.

 

Is it still pulling to one side, or is the wheel just not centered? If it just isn’t centered, that’s a simple tie rod adjustment.

The first gen cars never came with anything but toe adjustment up front, which is stupid in my opinion, but presumably they were cutting costs. Stock, there is too little front camber to begin with, plus the weak strut towers can really mess up alignments. I had a slight pull due to some cross caster before I fixed my towers and went to camber plates.

They did add a small amount of rear camber adjustment with some eccentric bolts for the facelift cars, but that’s it as far as changes over the model run.

 

Did they give you a print out when the task was completed? If not, always request one. The print out is the only way to tell what was done, and what the new alignment settings are.

Also, even though there are specs for caster and camber, doesn't really mean they are adjustable. However, those numbers can tell you if something is bent or broken.

 

Well, I assumed centering the steering wheel was just part of the alignment, but I got a car back with the wheel not centered yet the alignment numbers were spot on. Ever since then I have specifically asked the steering wheel be centered. And every time it has been.

The few times I have used a name brand tire store for anything -- was forced to as the car needed something and the dealer service department was booked - I have been disappointed.

For tires, alignment, servicing -- even if the car is out of warranty -- I rely upon a dealer.

 

Sorry for your troubles. Just another example of how even the 'experts' can screw stuff up. And by experts I mean people being paid far too little to do their job competently. This is why I service everything myself.

I put together a write-up for how I do my own alignments. Happy to answer any questions if you feel like giving this a try yourself.

See my DIY toe alignment post.

 

When having any of my vehicles aligned, I always request to actually sit in the vehicle while the alignment is done. Most European auto manufacturers specify that a certain weight (usually 150 lb. or so) be placed in the driver's seat anyway. I hold the wheel straight and know that it's done to my satisfaction.

 

I've also had annoying experiences when having my previous (classic) vehicles aligned at a shop with somewhat of the same concerns or disappointing out comes as mentioned above.
Many, many years ago a good friend of mine who was a highly specialized German auto mechanic taught me how to DIY my own alignment. Not surprising = The same procedure you've outlined in your link/post. I've been doing it that way ever since. Several months back; I had switched struts, added lowering springs, new strut bearings/bushings, outer ball joints, drop links and new tires on my Mini. Did the alignment myself and then brought it into a local BMW garage to have my work checked. Dropped $180 for them to tell me that the alignment was great - except for the 1/16" tow in. I am no ace mechanic.
However, I do believe in taking my car in to a have it professionally aligned with the right equipment by someone with experience.....who actually gives a ****!. Unfortunately those can be somewhat hard to find these days without alot of $$trial and error$$.

 

Some shops have made a big deal out of adding ballast to compensate for the driver during an alignment. Don't know about other cars but Porsche factory service manual didn't call for any of this. Just:

• Empty weight of vehicle in accordance with DIN 70020, i.e. car ready for the road, with full fuel tank, spare wheel (collapsible wheel) and tools.
  

• Tyre pressure in accordance with regulations, fairly uniform tyre tread.
  

Before I take a car in I make sure the tires are properly inflated. Saves the tech time. (However, given my experience at least with the techs that serviced my Porsche cars I'm sure they checked the tire pressures.) Of course if I have an alignment done after having new tires fitted the tech sees to it the tires are properly inflated.

 

Thanks for all the input. I did get it competently aligned at a shop I used previously even though they are now locationally inconvenient. I always get a read out of the alignment settings and the difference between the Firestone specs and the corrected specs were startling. Now I definitely know who NOT to take it to for an alignment. Unfortunately, unless you choose a stealership to do this type of work, the "mechanics" you find in independent shops can be a crap shoot as was in my case. All good now, though.

 

 

See Bentley Service Manual 320-21: Alignment in "normal loaded position" which is each front seat 68kg/150 lb., cargo compartment 14kg/31 lb., fuel tank full. I prefer only driver's seat loaded and 3/4 fuel tank as that's how it sees the track.

 

After I just dropped the subframe, replaced LCA bushings, inner & outer ball joints, tie rods and steering hoses, did a toe adjustment using the "String" method depicted in FCP Euros YooBoob video, worked great.


Cheap, fast and relatively easy though it took eight iterations of measure / adjust to get it right. Wheel centered, car tracks straight, no issues, and less than $50 invested.