What's with the rotor bolt? Is there a trick to remove those?

I've spend the better part of the day attempting to change brake pads and rotors. All was doing fine until I run into the rotor bolts holding the rotor on the hub.
What's the trick to remove those dam bolts when they're stuck (likely from rust). I almost stripped the rear right one. Stopped before it was irreversible.
I tried on the rear left and it wouldn't budge either.

I gave up and remounted everything. A bit frustrated to be stopped yet again by a silly rusted fastener. What a waste of time.
good I did my oil and filter change while the car was on stands...

 

I’ve always used some liquid wrench, an impact screw driver, and a mini sledge hammer when they’re stuck. When hitting the screw driver with the hammer, the bit is forced into the screw to help prevent slip out and the shock of the blows helps breaks things free. Just make sure the screw driver is set to loosen before hitting because the markings aren’t always obvious on them. Then I get new screws and use a little anti seize on the threads and hand tighten them.

 

I'm going to have to get one... Didn't have an impact screw driver on hand.
I did try to hammer with the bit in but it didn't do a thing.
Some PB blaster didn't either...

 

A hole punch works great......

 

If really stuck, I stop trying after about 30 minutes and get out the drill. You could also try slotting the screw head with a dremel tool to use a flat blade screw driver. Once out, use a good amount of anti-seize and only get them finger tight. Those screws do not need a lot of torque. Their only purpose in life is to hold the rotor until the wheel gets installed and torqued down.

 

If you get them out, ECS sells stainless ones for about 4 bucks each.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...ach/6-ecs-001/

 

Seems like I always have to use a drill to pop the head of the bolt off so the rotor can be removed. Use an 8mm or 5/16" drill bit because you just want to drill the head off. Then a vise-grip type pliers to get the remaining stud out. As mentioned above use anti-seize compound on the threads and conical part of bolt before installing. A hardware store should have a stainless bolt (M8 x 1.25 x 14mm counter sunk or flat head bolt) that will work, no need to spend $4 each plus shipping and wait to get them from one of the online vendors. It will probably be a Philips head bolt, which doesn't matter.

 

Years ago my experience with motorcycle engine cover fasteners -- Philips head -- sold me on the value of having a good impact screw driver assorted bits.

I used this to remove the counter sunk flat Philips head screws that held the rotor hubs on my Boxster. The factory brake hardware kit came with new screws. I used some anti-seize and just tightened them down enough the rotor/hub had no play. Next brake job just a hand Philips screwdriver was all that was needed.

 

A dewalt etc impact wrench stops any problems they just come straight out. Worth buying one to stop this kind of aggravation! Same for suspension bolts etc

 

I like that idea...

 

Tried that and nothing budged. Maybe the one I have isn't strong enough...
Honestly when these things get rusted sometime it feels hopeless short of drilling the thing out which I never like to do. So much can go wrong doing that...

 

Dewalt impact or Milwaukee battery power. These things have the power. I used them in the past when the hammer tool did not work.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-milwauke...y/2767-20~mwk/

 

Good gawd! If you're going to use one of those, better make sure you have some good socket adapter and screw bits.

 

I have those older big socket Torx bits and then a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter, (make sure its in great shape) hold it tight with pressure otherwise you could drill that head out easy, I used in on the range rover also and with 24MM impact sockets its the only thing that would take them off. Like working on a tractor with rust.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-lisle-pa...t50/26640~lis/ Torx bit T50 also

These are the Gen 1 and Gen 2 MINIs. T50 but in stainless ,

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part.../017757la01~a/







This bolt in stainless is for the Gen 2 R60 Countryman /R61 Paceman and the Gen 3 F55/F56/F57/F60 models. Takes an allen socket in our version.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...ach/6-ecs-001/

 

Thanks for all the tips. Man I wish they had used Allen instead of torx. Torx should never be used were there is rust imo!
I'm going to try that tool. I don't have a good impact wrench so it was time I did... It'll save me some sweat in many other places!

Edit: oh and I did order (with a few other things) some of those SS set screws... I thinks it's a great idea.

 

In case I need to drill, what is the diameter of those set screws?

I guess I could cross reference the screw size...

 

I have to say I just got that Milwaukee impact wrench and even tough the bolt was half busted it took that bolt off in less than 5 second.
I should have bought this years ago. All the time I could have save and the frustrations...

Thanks for the suggestion. Every hobbyist just get one!

 

So I finished changing brake pads, rotors, and sensors but after doing the rear I got into a similar rusted rotor holding screw in the front. And that Milwaukee impact wrench obliterated the TORX features... LOL
I had to drill the screw out. Thankfully after a trip to the store and some doing it came off... It's partly my fault. I should have put some PB blaster on before trying. Glad it's over and done. Brakes feel smoother now