Replacing rear rotors and calipers 2002 MCS

I have removed the wheel and the caliper
but have not loosened the rotor torx bolt

How do I get the rotor to stay in place so I can put pressure on the torx bolt to remove it?
I can put a pin thru the lug nut threads to hold the rotor in place but I"m afraid I'll hurt the threads

I'm waiting for help before I can proceed
thanks

 

Put a long length of pipe in them studs like you're thinking. Should work. If not, just drill the screw out and be done with it.

...Les

 

Insert two of the wheel lug bolts into two of the holes in the rotor. Then, place a piece of pipe or some other bar between them an turn the rotor till the bar catches the floor and keeps the rotor from turning. (Make sense?)

If you haven't done it yet, apply a lot of "break-er-loose" or some other penetrant to the torx bolt an wait a while till it penetrates (I applied it the previous day, actually). Tap lightly on the bolt. Then remove. Good luck.

 

Use a impact wrench.
Bolt will just spin out.

 

Like many people said, use the studs and a bar to keep the rotor from spinning! After I've bought my Mini, I realized that the garage only replaced the rear pads and didn't changed the old rotors! I understood why when I tried to remove them to put new ones in! The screw wasn't going to move, I had to drill them! If you have ''loose-nut'' apply some a couple minutes before trying! If you're lucky they'll come right off!

 

Thanks for the tips--got it!
I sprayed lube yesterday afternoon, so by the time I got back to it the torx came out easily. Must have been because I put antiseize last time I changed the rotors...because the other side torx came out no problem. Just needed the reminder of how to jam the rotor so it wouldn't spin.

The torx bolt was easy, but getting the rotors off was terrible. I thought I would see if the old ones could be resurfaced, but no way after i banged on them to get them off. On the second one I ended up using a crowbar, which finally worked.
Do you think one of those gear puller assemblies would remove the rotors more easily?
anyways thanks for the replies, helped get over my brain freeze!

 

I wouldn't trust a puller to get rotors out, at least not if you plan on re-using them!

 

thanks...anyone got suggestions on how to remove the rotors so that they can be machined, without having a shop do the brakes? I wonder how they do it. I had used anti seize but of course that wasn't effective on the rotors...
they are so dang hard to get off. Not sure if it would have worked if I had just tried the crowbar and padded it well where it contacted the rotor.
The left one came off after some banging with a hammer (ruined)
The right one didn't come off with alotta lotta banging, resorted to the crowbar. Just a shame I can't get them resurfaced. Guess if I wanted to pay to have the brakes and rotors done I could do it....

 

First, the rotors shouldn't be THAT hard to get off if you're not in salt country. That said, when installing the rotors, use a *light* coat of grease on the hubcentric mating surface (I know, not an option now.) In your situation, use a deadblow hammer (plastic filled with lead pellets) or a rubber mallet.
MINI also recommends the rotors not be turned, and after my first set of pads I see why - they're pretty well eaten through. New rotors aren't all that pricey, and then you haven't paid money for a thin rotor.

 

thanks Eric,good point.
Its easy enough just to do the whole thing, and be thankful about how much mooah I"m saving by doing it myself...
thanks for all the input everybody

 

I used an impact screw driver. About $10 at a local hardware store. The only other thing you need is a good hammer.

 

Great helpful information

 

Use a KD Tool impact driver that you can put the socket on the drive and use a hammer to break loose the torx.