mini n18 with 115k



Took off my intake manifold and throttle body due to several throttle body codes on my crank no start mini. Found this crack where the throttle body sits on the manifold. Also found this yellow paste on the throttle flap but has the consistency of frosting so it shouldn’t prohibit it from moving at all.



My P codes are 2714, 28B0, 28BB, 2880 all for throttle body. Plus one charge air sensor code 129F0

The main throttle body sensor is plugged in and when I checked everything else under intake manifold it all seemed to be plugged in. I’ve reset adaptations due to me doing a timing, head gasket job, and more. When it cranks rpms don’t move on gauge either. Haven’t tested resistance for crank sensor yet , I think it has to be more than a crank sensor for there to be so many throttle body codes. Would the crack be causing all these throttle body codes and a no start?

 

I just took my intake manifold off as I was getting a 2b64 code (unmetered air) as well as multiple misfire codes and found the same crack as shown in your pictures in the same place. I just got finished doing the oil filter housing gaskets and the car barely wants to run now SMH! 🙃

 

Yep, first i have seen this, yes unmetered air getting into the causing issues. Someone did a carbon blasting as one time and really beat up the intake manifold/throttle when installing or installed with tension.
OEM Part

Throttle Body:

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/13548675278/





https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...d/11617595078/

 

Thank you for the reply! This is the 2nd time this morning I've been told it's the first time they've seen this. When you say "with tension" what do you mean? I do most of the work on this car myself so I'm pretty sure I did this on accident. Whoops 🤭😬

 

Yep all I can guess is when it was installed or when taking out it must have applied pressure on that seam to crack. Heat cycles on plastic make it brittle and can happen.

 

pdate:

got it started!

Forgot to check some of the most important connections next to the junction box

Only left with code:
High pressure fuel. plausibility
Pressure too low

pretty sure it’s HPFP as I have had symptoms before and after rebuild on starts. Will die at idle if I’m not holding throttle to send more fuel. Also the live data between nominal fuel rail pressure and actual are way off from each other.

snapshots for live data at fuel rail below, is from a video so I believe there is some lag between what the rpm’s are on cluster vs scan tool. But still shows how much the fuel rail pressure should be and what it actually is.