R50 5 speed Midland at 200k miles.

I was replacing the clutch for the first time and separated the gear box from the clutch housing.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=k4bLXbhFiYY&feature=youtu.be

So at one minute fifteen seconds 1:15 it seems he puts a thick layer of RTV on the transmission clutch housing before bolting the gearbox on.

​​​​​​​Can I get a consensus on if it was just RTV?

 

I would use this or a similar product:

Permatex anaerobic gasket maker.

 

Thank you brother

 

My clutch is bolted on, and I have my shift cables solid in place, but shifting through the gears is not easy or accurate between fifth and reverse. Is this because there's no transmission fluid yet? Or is my transmission shot?

The shifting is stiff and inconsistent. It feels like something is gonna break or pop out of place. I can go through all the gears when I'm under the hood shifting the transmission by hand.

Here's where I am.



No axels, fluid or transmission mount.

 

If it shifts ok with you under the hood, I'd bet it's not shifting smoothly because it's not all mounted up right and it's putting weird forces on the cables. I'd put all your mounts in place and then see how it shifts. you also might have pinched a cable when you were putting the motor and tranny back in.

 

Thanks for the 411. I got just about everything but the suspension bolts torqued down so I turned in the car and with my foot on the clutch ( which is SUPER soft now) I could go into first and second no problem but third was hard and forth was bad, grinded a little too. Fifth was impossible and I didn't even try reverse. Maybe this all has to do with this after market bushing replacement I put on my shift cable (the forward backwards cable not the up and down cable). I'm guessing I gotta replace the cables CRAP.

Other thing was once I got out of my car and turned it off I noticed a burning smell. Not exactly burnt clutch, but I didn't bother turning the car back on to figure out where it was coming from.


​​​​​​So tired.

 

Oh dang shift cables are EXPENSIVE. Way has some used for a reasonable price, any other advice? I could try the scrap yard, but idk how to take them out.

 

I jumped into the car this morning and tried again while it was up in the air. Three clutch pedal feels soft like I said, and putting it into gear is difficult. At first I thought it was the cables or this after market bushing, but I noticed something this morning.

When I got the car into gear with the clutch pedal pressed the wheels were intermittently spinning. So it's like the clutch isn't disengaging completely.

 

These clutches are hard to bleed correctly.
Read up on how to get all the air
out of the slave cylinders.

 

+1 on bleeding all air out

 

The car is running well! The spinning wheels was due to the car being in the air, and the softness comes from never driving a new clutch with appropriate grease in the appropriate places before.

I didn't get new flywheel bolts though, and I just read that I'm supposed to. I did torque them to 60lbs though

 

If your crank bolts are like mine, they are a grade 10.9 (maybe even 12.9). Some people say that you have to replace them each time.

I've talked to more than a few people that specialize in bolts and clamping hardware. Their consensus is, No you don't. 60lb.ft. on a bolt with the tensile strength of at least a 10.9 is in no way going to compromise or "stretch" the bolt. These bolts are not head bolts, they are not torque to yield. If they were a lower grade bolt then maybe but not with what comes stock. What you should do though is chase the threads to clean them up, clean the locktite off the existing bolts and then reapply when you reassemble. That's about it.

 

My friend, you have provided concise and confident information which I appreciate. Unfortunately I already put everything back together, so do you think it will be fine considering I didn't chase, clean, or apply new lock tight?


I've already gone 1,000 miles and normal odd issues are all that I've noticed.

Issues being 1/10 starts the engine idles very low making the car shake and sound like it might die. I think I need to change my fuel filter. 200,000 miles officially yesterday!

 

Have you checked your coil pack, especially the cylinder 3 connection? Common place for corrosion to set in. In any event, if its original replace it and the plug wires.