2012 Clubman S P1776 & P18B8 Permanent codes
2012 Clubman S P1776 & P18B8 Permanent codes
I had all of my abs lights on, CEL on, traction control light on, and warning light on. I plugged in my Bosch Bluetooth code reader and it gave me codes P1776 and P18B8. I scoured the internet and couldn’t find anything on these two codes. My code reader tells me nothing about them other than they are there. I assumed the cause was a bad ABS sensor. I couldn’t tell which one so I ordered all four. I replaced the driver front sensor and all of my lights went out except my CEL so I assumed the issue was fixed. The codes were listed as permanent so I drove the car for a few days to work and around doing errands and they still have not cleared. Does anyone have any knowledge of what these codes are or how long it takes to get them to clear?
I had all of my abs lights on, CEL on, traction control light on, and warning light on. I plugged in my Bosch Bluetooth code reader and it gave me codes P1776 and P18B8. I scoured the internet and couldn’t find anything on these two codes. My code reader tells me nothing about them other than they are there. I assumed the cause was a bad ABS sensor. I couldn’t tell which one so I ordered all four. I replaced the driver front sensor and all of my lights went out except my CEL so I assumed the issue was fixed. The codes were listed as permanent so I drove the car for a few days to work and around doing errands and they still have not cleared. Does anyone have any knowledge of what these codes are or how long it takes to get them to clear?
I've read that disconnecting the battery for a few minutes will reset the ECU, but I can't say I've tried it --- I have an AccessPort which has both an ECU reset and code clearing function.
Found this code on Motoring Alliance forum --- P1776 - CAN Wheel Speed Front Left Wheel, No Signal. Nothing on your P18B8
I've read that disconnecting the battery for a few minutes will reset the ECU, but I can't say I've tried it --- I have an AccessPort which has both an ECU reset and code clearing function.
I've read that disconnecting the battery for a few minutes will reset the ECU, but I can't say I've tried it --- I have an AccessPort which has both an ECU reset and code clearing function.
I have cleared codes with my scanner before but they were only pending codes. These codes are listed as Permanent so they won’t let me clear them with the scanner. I have been reading some information online that these “permanent” codes can only be cleared by the vehicle when it runs/tests certain parameters. Some manufacturers even have specific drive routines of maintaining certain speeds for a length of time or letting your car idle for so long before it will “test” these parameters and clear the code. I wasn’t sure if MINI had something similar to this.
no driving routine is found for minis, 2nd gen speaking. when I used to finish any rebuild, I would take it on the highway for 60 to 70 miles on the same day with about 70 to 80mph before I can get it state inspected.
if the codes won't clear, that means it is permanent and the issue isn't fixed. having a bmw/mini specific code reader gives you the advantage of know what the code means right on the spot. sometimes due to other systems acting up, the check engine will also be triggered. for example, clearing the abs codes might solve the issue or even the CAS. so it really depends on the tool you have not the driving. Again, this is from personal experience and others might disagree
if the codes won't clear, that means it is permanent and the issue isn't fixed. having a bmw/mini specific code reader gives you the advantage of know what the code means right on the spot. sometimes due to other systems acting up, the check engine will also be triggered. for example, clearing the abs codes might solve the issue or even the CAS. so it really depends on the tool you have not the driving. Again, this is from personal experience and others might disagree
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I disconnected the battery for a good half hour and hooked it back up to no avail. I even read somewhere that connecting the power and ground cables while it is disconnected will ensure the ecu and any capacitors are fully drained. Still didn’t work. I will go on a long drive tomorrow and see if that fixes the codes. This Bosch Bluetooth code reader is pretty crummy in my opinion. Do any of you recommend a MINI specific code reader?
I disconnected the battery for a good half hour and hooked it back up to no avail. I even read somewhere that connecting the power and ground cables while it is disconnected will ensure the ecu and any capacitors are fully drained. Still didn’t work. I will go on a long drive tomorrow and see if that fixes the codes. This Bosch Bluetooth code reader is pretty crummy in my opinion. Do any of you recommend a MINI specific code reader?
ECS tuning has some good readers too...
no driving routine is found for minis, 2nd gen speaking. when I used to finish any rebuild, I would take it on the highway for 60 to 70 miles on the same day with about 70 to 80mph before I can get it state inspected.
if the codes won't clear, that means it is permanent and the issue isn't fixed. having a bmw/mini specific code reader gives you the advantage of know what the code means right on the spot. sometimes due to other systems acting up, the check engine will also be triggered. for example, clearing the abs codes might solve the issue or even the CAS. so it really depends on the tool you have not the driving. Again, this is from personal experience and others might disagree
if the codes won't clear, that means it is permanent and the issue isn't fixed. having a bmw/mini specific code reader gives you the advantage of know what the code means right on the spot. sometimes due to other systems acting up, the check engine will also be triggered. for example, clearing the abs codes might solve the issue or even the CAS. so it really depends on the tool you have not the driving. Again, this is from personal experience and others might disagree

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