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Metal in the oil pan and looking to replace the engine in a r35

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Metal in the oil pan and looking to replace the engine in a r35

  #1  
Old 05-23-2019, 02:04 AM
RhinoEngler
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Metal in the oil pan and looking to replace the engine in a r35

I recently traded my motorcycle for a 2005 mini cooper s with 245k miles on it (he said engine was replace at 140k). I was told it had a 15% pulley, full exhaust, intake, and upgraded radiator overflow. I knew it had electrical issues (he left the sunroof open) none of the instrument panel worked and had a small oil leak (took it to have the oil chg and they said it was very very low). I was able to fix the electrical issue. It was that issue with the bc1 connection. Took the car to a tuner. He said it had misfire codes from the computer. I told him some times it would take about a min or so until the car felt like it had boost or any power..it would just bog out when you gave it gas until it came in to power.

He took the valve cover off and said something like " the rocker arms have messed up the cam and there is metal in the oil....so you are looking at a new engine. He also told me it would be about 4.5k or 8k for new engine. He also advised the driver side tie rod is bad, axel seal on the passenger side was leaking, front strut was going out, crank seal leak, and the Oil O ring was leaking. (looked up the parts looked like about 305 in parts. He also advised me that there was no upgraded pulley or a header on the car. Least to say I was not really happy with this.

So, I am looking at "if I need a new engine" can I put a JCW 2005 in my mini. Would I need to do anything in the computer? Can I put a newer engine on it?.or what would be a good route to take? New head (Jesus big head). I wanted to mod this car up. I was looking at the pulleys (2% crank, 17% supercharger, plugs, sway bar, and some engine management) for starters. I was going to do the engine swap on my own. I feel there is enough info on here and vids on you tube to get it done. I just know it still runs and leaks. I hate to just junk the car or drop another 5 grand into it. It is a great little car fast and really fun to drive. I have always wanted a mini but was hesitant to get one. Now I got one.
 

Last edited by RhinoEngler; 05-23-2019 at 02:11 AM.
  #2  
Old 05-23-2019, 08:54 AM
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ItsmeWayne
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Wow, Bummer on all the issues! It is worth putting in a engine, whether new or used. If you do go with the JCW engine, you will need to flash the computer to the JCW tune.
Pics? You can find deals on used R53 engines, so this is the cheaper option. We have vendors here that have rebuilt and built up engines, I believe in the $4K range.
These are usually pretty robust, but lack on maintenance is a death blow! It sounds like the wheels were driven off of yours.
Welcome to NAM! This is a great lace to get help and a great resource for everything Mini!
 
  #3  
Old 05-23-2019, 10:00 PM
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Got it back. I am going to order parts. Getting these CODES from auto zone: p0301 cylinder 1 misfire detection (I think that is the cam and rocker issue), p0070 ambient air temperature sensor circuit, p2096 post catalyst fuel trim system too lean bank 1 (not sure I am going to look this one up), p2300 ignition coil a primary control circuit low,p2303 ignition coil b primary control circuit low.

Anybody has any ideas I am open. Like I said this is going to be my baby. I plan on taking the valve cover off and will post some pics. When I picked it up he had it all back together. I would have like to seen what he was talking about.

I am getting a new, MSD Coilpack, MAGNECOR Wires, Brisk Spark Plugs, ALTA 17% Supercharger Pulley, ALTA Tensioner Stop, Supercharger Pulley Belt, The ALTA Performance pulley puller. I am hoping this will help with the misfire codes. I will need to fix the leak on the crank sensor seal and oil cooler o-ring and a new upper radiator hose.

When and if she blows going to put in the JCW 2005 s engine and just add these parts on to that engine.

 
  #4  
Old 05-23-2019, 10:34 PM
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Quote: Got it back. I am going to order parts. Getting these CODES from auto zone: p0301 cylinder 1 misfire detection (I think that is the cam and rocker issue), p0070 ambient air temperature sensor circuit, p2096 post catalyst fuel trim system too lean bank 1 (not sure I am going to look this one up), p2300 ignition coil a primary control circuit low,p2303 ignition coil b primary control circuit low.

Anybody has any ideas I am open. Like I said this is going to be my baby. I plan on taking the valve cover off and will post some pics. When I picked it up he had it all back together. I would have like to seen what he was talking about.

I am getting a new, MSD Coilpack, MAGNECOR Wires, Brisk Spark Plugs, ALTA 17% Supercharger Pulley, ALTA Tensioner Stop, Supercharger Pulley Belt, The ALTA Performance pulley puller. I am hoping this will help with the misfire codes. I will need to fix the leak on the crank sensor seal and oil cooler o-ring and a new upper radiator hose. : End Quote

Cylinder #1 misfire can be from many things, but the fact the the volts are low on the coil, can accout for that also. Buy a spray can of electrical contact cleaner, disconnect the primary coil plug and spray the contacts on the plug and socket. If they are not too corroded, this may fix the issue. Replace the spark plugs and wires with NGK iridium plugs . An easy job.
The air filter looks like it is one you oil. I totally think they are a problem and I recommend a paper filter, as they will not clog the map sensor with dirt, like the oil ones do.
The lean condition is usually from air leaks in the intake system. This triggers the lean condition. The supercharger green gasket, the small 2 inch diameter hose that blows off the boost, when you are slowing down, or a broken spring on the vacuum pot, or broken rubber diaphragm, can do this. Als the hose off of the PCV valve too!
I hope you can figure it out, without draining your wallet.

Do you have the intercooler cover? it helps to divert the scoop air through it.

The air filter looks inadequate for a supercharged engine.
You will need and engine for an 05/06 MCS or to 08 from a convertible S.
 
  #5  
Old 05-24-2019, 12:06 AM
RhinoEngler
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Thanks for the input. I will check into your recommendation. Yes, I have the cover it was off when I got the car. Just never put it back on. Today I noticed it was leaking in radiator fluid in the drivers side. It never did that until I took it to the mechanic. So not sure if something was put on wrong or not.
 
  #6  
Old 05-24-2019, 05:10 AM
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Get an original coil. They last forever and are plenty of spark. Some have problems with MSD, which are overrated in my opinion.
 
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  #7  
Old 05-24-2019, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by tgriffithjr View Post
get an original coil. They last forever and are plenty of spark. Some have problems with msd, which are overrated in my opinion.

+1
 
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  #8  
Old 05-24-2019, 06:19 AM
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Also, that "custom" intake is pulling hot air from inside your engine bay. That's counter-productive to producing HP which requires colder, denser air. The air needs to come from OUTSIDE the vehicle so my recommendation would be to reinstall the original air intake plenum with a free-flowing paper filter.
 
  #9  
Old 05-24-2019, 06:50 AM
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Make sure the coolant is up in the system. If it is overful, it will come out from the coolant tank. It looks like there is a bolt in the coolant drain. This is a bad thing and needs to be removed or you risk head gasket failure. Buy a new radiator cap, as that one must have failed and this bolt fix, is no fix at all. Remove that right away!
 
  #10  
Old 06-02-2019, 01:26 AM
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Thanks for the input. I have fixed the radiator hose. I saw that to. I had to replace the heat exchanger and noticed it.

When I got the car back from the shop. I started tinkering with things and noticed when he put the intercooler back on it was not sealed on the bottom..Now it runs like it did before I took it to him (needless to say I will never go back there. That was basic skills). Now I am second guessing all he said. I have cleared all the codes but now I have P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire detected), P0507 (idle control system rpm higher than expected) I looked at the throttle body and it is very nasty looking plan on cleaning this weekend. I think it is due to the Air Filter and the oil. I did notice I have a hose (I think should be on the air filter box) that is just hanging there) this might be triggering some code, P2096 (post catalyst fuel trim system too lean bank1.

And I did look at the intercooler it had some oil in it not sure what that means. Car runs great. I already ordered the coil pac, wires, colder plugs, and I went with 15% pulley. I guess now I will look for a new air filter. I do not have the original one.
 
  #11  
Old 06-02-2019, 05:14 AM
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A little oil in the IC is normal.
 
  #12  
Old 06-02-2019, 07:51 AM
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And as sort of mentioned, get a "complete air box". Stock, JCW, etc.
Open the back to the opening in the cowl box and seal the air box to the cowl box. Keep the hot engine air away from the intake air.
Super chargers and hot intake air do not play well together..!

Mike
 
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Old 06-02-2019, 08:58 AM
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and send the MSD coil pack back to where you bought it from and use a stock MINI coil pack......the MSD units are not good enough as mentioned

Bryan
 
  #14  
Old 06-03-2019, 11:22 PM
RhinoEngler
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I already bought the MSD coil. it was part of a package deal.
 
  #15  
Old 06-04-2019, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by RhinoEngler View Post
I already bought the MSD coil. it was part of a package deal.
from what I have read and from what others have testified about those MSD coils, they do not work as well as the OE coils......

Your car, your call

Bryan
 
  #16  
Old 06-04-2019, 04:26 PM
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Get rid of the MSD coilpack, get an actual intake rather than the "custom" one you have installed.
Clean the throttle body and install a Detroit Tuned BPV, drive until engine failure. Swap in another W11 and continue on.
 
  #17  
Old 06-05-2019, 06:02 AM
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As a benchmark, have you performed a compression test...and, hopefully, a leakdown test if you have access to a leakdown test gauge. The readings will either give you confidence that you're going to be modding an engine that's worth modding...or throwing good money after bad.
 
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Old 06-05-2019, 10:04 PM
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I plan to do the checks. I am just thinking everything I am getting can be moved to a new engine. I am going with a DDMworks intake after doing some research it appear people like that one. I will be off next week plan on taking the valve cover off and see if the crank needs to be replaced. They also sent me a 17% pulley...wanted 15% but was on the fence due to the engine being so old. Plan on servicing the SC as well and fixing the oil leak.

Thanks for every ones input. It is still running strong. Love this little car.
 

Last edited by RhinoEngler; 06-05-2019 at 10:06 PM. Reason: forgot to put fixing oil leak in .
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Old 06-06-2019, 01:41 PM
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Aside,
What are those wheels and tires? Sidewall looks way too big and they are poking out. Do they rub?
 
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Old 06-06-2019, 09:43 PM
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they are avid 1. http://www.avid1wheels.com/wheels/. they don't rub lots of grip.
 
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Old 06-07-2019, 07:51 PM
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Have your head rebuilt with new lifters, cam, etc. I’m not sure I would replace the entire engine just from a bad cam.
 
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