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Evap Codes/leak after work done

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Old 05-13-2019, 08:08 AM
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Evap Codes/leak after work done

Hey guys, I'm back with more issues with my mini. I had my timing chain tensioner fail on me so I sent it off to my mechanic to fix. Failed tensioner and broken guides. After new guides, new oil pump (cracked apparently), new chain, and installing my GPR tensioner for the sprintex, I drove ~50 miles and got a p0500 and p0171. Cleared them to see what would return and I got these new codes and a "check fuel cap" for about 15 minutes.. After some research, it seems that p0442 often points to the canister in the rear, but logic, and the very coincidental timing, would tell me that since the whole front end was apart, it's probably more related to something up front. What are your opinions? Related to recent work (send back to mechanic to fix) or pump at the back? Anything to look at before pulling pump?

 
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Old 05-15-2019, 09:29 AM
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Any of you fellas smarter than me have any opinions? Mechanic gave me generic response of "will need to smoke test to diagnose" and this is the second time it's come back with another issue, so not taking it back to him. Does the combination of codes give an idea of where to start looking? Could the canister up front be causing the leak/lean? The LDP at the rear wouldn't cause a lean code, would it?
 
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Old 05-15-2019, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by CSP
Any of you fellas smarter than me have any opinions?
Code P0171 oftentimes comes back to a vacuum leak, which in your case may come back to the mechanic failing to reconnect a vacuum line. Since he was in the timing cover area as well as in the passenger-side supercharger area, I'd look at the small vacuum line (p/n 13517515137 - about 8" long) that connects the fuel breather to the underside of the supercharger. It's #6 on the diagram below. Also check the breather hoses that connect valve cover to supercharger inlet pipe. My guess is, you find whichever vacuum leak is causing the P1071 code, and the other (related) codes will go away as well.

The green line shows where the right-angled section of that line connects to another line which runs under the supercharger. The opposite (straight) end of the line connects to a line that runs next to the fuel breather valve.

HERE'S a recent thread on that particular line.

 

Last edited by AoxoMoxoA; 05-15-2019 at 10:18 AM. Reason: Additional info added
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Old 05-15-2019, 10:29 AM
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Dope. That's kind of what I was thinking. Didn't make sense that some loose o-rings on the LDP would be throwing a lean code and triggering a knock sensor. That'll be the first place I look this week.

Thanks man
 
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Old 05-16-2019, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by AoxoMoxoA
Code P0171 oftentimes comes back to a vacuum leak, which in your case may come back to the mechanic failing to reconnect a vacuum line. Since he was in the timing cover area as well as in the passenger-side supercharger area, I'd look at the small vacuum line (p/n 13517515137 - about 8" long) that connects the fuel breather to the underside of the supercharger. It's #6 on the diagram below. Also check the breather hoses that connect valve cover to supercharger inlet pipe. My guess is, you find whichever vacuum leak is causing the P1071 code, and the other (related) codes will go away as well.

The green line shows where the right-angled section of that line connects to another line which runs under the supercharger. The opposite (straight) end of the line connects to a line that runs next to the fuel breather valve.

HERE'S a recent thread on that particular line.

X2 on this good post. Keep in mind that all vacuum hoses need to be on, in order for the codes to go away. You may also need a new gas cap, as the o-ring goes hard and cracks too!
 
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Old 05-20-2019, 01:20 PM
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I pulled the intercooler and the hoses to inspect everything. All the hoses looked to be in good condition with no obvious ruptures/cracks. I did find that the vent was installed upside down, though. Any chance that could've contributed to the codes? when pulling the i/c off I also noticed a fair bit of oil in the horns. I doubt the vent would be responsible for all of that, though, right?

If (when) the codes come back I may just take it to go get a smoke test.
 
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Old 05-20-2019, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by CSP
I pulled the intercooler and the hoses to inspect everything. All the hoses looked to be in good condition with no obvious ruptures/cracks. I did find that the vent was installed upside down, though. Any chance that could've contributed to the codes? when pulling the i/c off I also noticed a fair bit of oil in the horns. I doubt the vent would be responsible for all of that, though, right?

If (when) the codes come back I may just take it to go get a smoke test.
The oil is typical and is normal.
 
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Old 05-20-2019, 03:32 PM
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Cool. I thought a few drops was normal, but that anything more than that signified a vacuum leak. Thanks for the reassurance.
 
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Old 05-21-2019, 12:39 PM
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I had a similar issue. Thought is was the gas cap. Inside gasket was cracked. Nope.

It was a very small canister in the front of the car. The Mini dealership noticed this and replaced. Wasn't too expensive and sorry I do not remember what the exact name of the part was.

It was about the size of a thumb, a little thicker


Good Luck
 
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Old 06-09-2019, 05:26 PM
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Switched the evap valve around and haven't had the codes back for about 50 miles. I did a homemade smoke test with a cigar and saw nothing at all, but the evap valve is still quite noisy and I don't know what that means. Brakes also feel "weird" so I feel like I do still have a vacuum leak somewhere. I also did get a low oil pressure light going around some corners though. Additionally, there is now a wiring issue because the car dies after a few days of not driving. So after receiving car back from mechanic for a failed chain tensioner, I now have 3 separate problems. Can you guys help me think through these problems logically?

Note: Haven't noticed any oil puddles, or oil along the back of car.
 
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