emissions due, and Two Evap Codes
emissions due, and Two Evap Codes
So my Emissions are due in a week, and I'm getting these two codes when I scan using torque: P2400 and P1477. Both were regarding the Evap pump from what I remember, but that's about all I know about it. How do I fix this?
Thanks a lot
Thanks a lot
P2400 Evaporative emission system leak detection pump control circuit open
P1477 Leakage diagnostic pump reed switch did not open
There's always the option of checking the connections. If everything is fine and connected with no corrosion on the connectors pins, you might be looking at replacing the pump itself. Not sure if there's conventional methods to check it other than running a test with a proper BMW scanner. I've seen some people on here that had to replace the pump, not really a common issue, but you wouldn't be the first.
P1477 Leakage diagnostic pump reed switch did not open
There's always the option of checking the connections. If everything is fine and connected with no corrosion on the connectors pins, you might be looking at replacing the pump itself. Not sure if there's conventional methods to check it other than running a test with a proper BMW scanner. I've seen some people on here that had to replace the pump, not really a common issue, but you wouldn't be the first.
Check the two small/thin vacuum tubes located under the intercooler.
I had the same code as you, P1477. Replacing those tubes sorted it out (the rubber connectors disintegrate due to the heat and oil)..
The LDP pressurizes the vacuum system, (Can't remember how many drive cycles it takes) if there is a leak, It gives the P1477 code. Basically it's doing exactly what it's supposed to be doing. Testing the vacuum system.
One tube is under the fuel rail valve in the center of the rail.
The other is under the large horn above the I/M.
Besides that, check all of the larger vacuum tube's.
I didn't wanna start fiddling around at the gas tank, (The LDP on the gen 1 is a PIA to get too) until i was sure all the tubes up front were sorted. Nothing moves back there and it's not that hot. Stands a chance the problem is at the front of the car.
I had the same code as you, P1477. Replacing those tubes sorted it out (the rubber connectors disintegrate due to the heat and oil)..
The LDP pressurizes the vacuum system, (Can't remember how many drive cycles it takes) if there is a leak, It gives the P1477 code. Basically it's doing exactly what it's supposed to be doing. Testing the vacuum system.
One tube is under the fuel rail valve in the center of the rail.
The other is under the large horn above the I/M.
Besides that, check all of the larger vacuum tube's.
I didn't wanna start fiddling around at the gas tank, (The LDP on the gen 1 is a PIA to get too) until i was sure all the tubes up front were sorted. Nothing moves back there and it's not that hot. Stands a chance the problem is at the front of the car.
Last edited by Stoker; Mar 20, 2014 at 05:12 PM.
Doesn't MINI USA have a 10 years/100,000 miles Emission Warranty?
This may be covered depending on your model year and mileage.
This may be covered depending on your model year and mileage.
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I had a buddy clear the codes, and my exhaust leak and map sensor codes have been gone for a week. Ordered the wrong evap pump so I ran out of time and am at the dealer now for a $500 fix....
There are some other threads on this. I had the code for the last 6 months and it healed itself last week??? I had already ordered a new LD pump because it seems to be a fairly likely cause once you have eliminated the gas tank cap, the evap valve at the engine and the vac tubes at the engine. I imagine it will be back.
The pump can be bought for about $120 from Sewellparts.
You may want to get a shop to do a smoke test before throwing parts at the issue though or you can end up replacing stuff that is fine.
Also the pump itself can leak. Some have had luck by disassembling it and coating the o-rings with vasoline to get a better seal. That didn't work for me and I cracked some tabs getting it apart so I went ahead and got a new one. Hopefully I won't need it.
To recap start with:
gas cap
evap valve
vac lines in engine bay
vac lines near charcoal canister and LD pump
LD pump
canister
The pump can be bought for about $120 from Sewellparts.
You may want to get a shop to do a smoke test before throwing parts at the issue though or you can end up replacing stuff that is fine.
Also the pump itself can leak. Some have had luck by disassembling it and coating the o-rings with vasoline to get a better seal. That didn't work for me and I cracked some tabs getting it apart so I went ahead and got a new one. Hopefully I won't need it.
To recap start with:
gas cap
evap valve
vac lines in engine bay
vac lines near charcoal canister and LD pump
LD pump
canister
If time permitted I would have done that but it's a bit late now.
The other threads are still pretty vague and didn't answer my question, which is why I posted a new thread.
The other threads are still pretty vague and didn't answer my question, which is why I posted a new thread.
Last edited by Tab32; Mar 31, 2014 at 08:04 AM.
So, I just did this on our 2005 r53 (108k). I got a new pump, but found that the wiring rubbed one the edge of the pump, and a tie wrap - from mini - . All fixed now. The 2400 + the 1477 is telling you that there is problem in the pump circuit.
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