2005 Mini Cooper S JCW... 83k.. Power steering pump and fan failed a few weeks back.. I replaced both. Then developed all these other issues. Seems like the car is taking a dump on me all at once.

Car kept going limp after certain rpm. However as many have reported they usually get a battery light if they have a failed pulley. I purchased a scanner and got p1688... Bypass valve.

I'm at a loss here, I don't see any slipping or damage from above.. The The only sound (comes and goes and seems to originate down low by the crank pulley but my hearing is terrible) I can report is via this YouTube video R53 Mini Cooper knock: http://youtu.be/68AHNbi0XcY I would greatly appreciate it if a few of you kind folks can walk me through troubleshooting this.. We are getting ready to move to California from Georgia.. Finances are tight so I just can't go on and replace everything. Thanks in advance!

 

Hate to be the bearer of bad news. More than likely your crank pulley is dead.

Bad noises in that area are a clue. Do you smell rubber burning? If you have a belt tool, release the belt and get your hands on the crank pulley and wiggle/spin it.

That's the same code I had when mine failed.

If you want to keep you mini for a long time, get an ATI damper. Stock size. Otherwise, get OEM. The ATI won't fail, the OEM will.

 

If you jack the car up...you can yank off the passenger side wheel... Yank the liner out...and look for cracks in the rubber of the damper....
Alternately, if the car is on a lift, you can try to wiggle the pulley with a pry bar...if it moves lots, its bad or going...

 

PS.
One more though....
Look at your intercooler boots....when they tear or leak, you can go into limpmode too...
Rubber gets stiff, and since it is one of the first colder days of the year...might be worth looking...

 

You will need a prybar or other tool to move the pulley. Mine felt solid when done by hand....until I took the belt off.

 

No smells at all, just that tick/knock that comes and goes..... I will definitely go aftermarket. It seems like if one thing goes on a Mini, you should expect more to come. I guess I need to to find the [How to] now... I looked up the replace/repair and that manual had me removing part of the front... Is there an easier way? I really don't want to pay a mechanic...... Thanks for the feedback. I need to go buy a belt tool too... Meh.. Awesome sauce!

 

Definitely get a new belt, and if you can swing it, a new tensioner and idler pulleys. Gates is the brand, Amazon is the store to look at. They aren't too expensive. The ATI pulley needs to be heated to slip into the crank snout, and ideally the crank snout cold. A regular pulley puller should get the OEM one off. You may need something special to put the ATI on. We had some custom made tool when we did mine. Don't know what it was or why though.

 

Just did the crank pulley for a friend. Thought it would be a big deal, but it was pretty easy. Only need to remove the wheel and wheel well liner (as well as releasing the tensioner.)

I used this thread. Just used a loaner puller from Autozone.
Will post details in a bit.

I used the ATI, didn't need to heat it though. And it goes on easily with a 100mm bolt, included if you get it from WMW.

 

My scenario
Friend had P1688 code, checked crank pulley, it was hosed. Considered cheaper alternatives but eventually went for the ATI from WMW. (if it makes anyone feel better, an ATI for a Miata can run in the mid $500’s!)
I contemplated the procedure and read up on the process. I was a bit wary having heard about bolts breaking, drilling/tapping, and the big kahuna, having seen Randy Webb do one in Vegas where the OEM ‘crank pin’ broke. He got it done, but not without consternation. I had also seen him do one in the paddock at Laguna Seca after someone’s belt/tensioner let go.
All that said, I decided to give it a shot, and if things went south, just tow it to a shop.
Borrowed a puller from Autozone, but it didn’t have the right size bolts
First I obtained a M12x100mm threaded rod, bottomed it out in the crank, and drilled a divot in one end for the puller to center on.
Also picked up a trio of M6x100mm all thread, along with a few washers and nuts, as the hardware store only had M6x35mm bolts.

I started with the puller, the convex side out. Applied anti-seize to the pulley threads, in case something broke. Not surprisingly the M6 rods started to bend as I added pressure, as the washers were at an angle (not perpendicular) to the pulley. Having read the horror stories, I quickly stopped to confirm their strength (grade 5), and went out to source grade 8 bolts.
Based on my initial setup, I chose M6x50mm bolts, though I had read someone suggested four inches (100mm). I figured l’d rather have less length to fail.
On the second round, I turned the puller around so the flat portion was away from the pulley. This posed a bit of a problem as the bolts just barely fit with enough room to fit the pulley push point. I actually had to thread them in with the puller in place. If I had to do it again I’d get 60 or 70mm.
Once I had it all together, added a squirt of PB blaster.
The pulley came off like butter. Whew.

The install was even easier. Not knowing what to expect, I sourced a M12x120mm bolt, as Pelican Parts showed that you could install the pulley with just a longer bolt, with a ½” socket as a spacer.
As it turned out, the ATI from Way came with a M12x100mm bolt and 5mm washer that worked perfectly to install the pulley (until it bottomed out, and I used the new bolt to finish pressing it on.


All in all it was pretty simple and problem free. The hardest part was getting the damn belt routed correctly.
Sorry if this was a bit long, but figured pointing out what I did wrong would help others do it right the first time.

 

Failed harmonic balancer for sure! Fell all to pieces... Only tip I can add.... Impact wrench makes the job a piece of cake. Thanks everyone for the feedback! Went with 2% Ati... From WMW... HOORAY!

 

That's GREAT, glad I was at the shop yesterday to get you what you needed.