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Ignition coil replacement

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  #1  
Old 08-06-2018, 08:01 AM
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Ignition coil replacement

New Mini owner here: I'm attempting to replace the ignition coil on my 2004 MC40. Seems like such a simple operation, right? Caveat: the four bolts retaining the coil will neither loosen nor tighten which leads me to believe that in the past someone may have severely over-tightened them and stripped whatever threads are present in the valve cover. Even though the threads may be gone, the coil will still not lift. Has anyone run into this problem before and is there a solution other than removing the valve cover and replacing it? What am I doing wrong? Thanks.
 
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Old 08-06-2018, 07:17 PM
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Just to clarify, the bolts are still attached and tight? Have you tried spraying WD40 on them and letting it sit over night?
 
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Old 08-07-2018, 07:24 AM
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MCS02 -- the bolts will neither loosen nor tighten which makes me think that the brass nuts (in the valve cover itself) into which they screw have somehow been compromised by an overzealous mechanic in the past trying to get them way too tight. It appears that the nuts are spinning in whatever receptacle they inhabit in the valve cover. I am curious as to why if that's the case, they simply don't lift up. Way Motor Works (thanks for the analysis) believes as I do that the valve cover needs replacement but even a used one is $150. I'm just disappointed that a $30 ignition coil may end up costing me $180 to replace. This is what you get when you buy a 15-year old Mini, I guess, but it's probably not the only snafu I'll run into while trying to bring it back to life. Moving on!
 
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Old 08-07-2018, 07:34 AM
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Why do you think the coil needs replacing? Lots of multi-100K cars around with oem coil still running.
 
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Old 08-07-2018, 08:59 AM
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Ok I under stand now. Sorry. Yea I guess it may be time for a new valve cover.
 
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Old 08-07-2018, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by MINI33342
Why do you think the coil needs replacing? Lots of multi-100K cars around with oem coil still running.
This is true. I had over 100k on my R53 before changing it. The leads were corroding so I went ahead and replaced it.
 
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Old 08-07-2018, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by cooper48
...the valve cover needs replacement but even a used one is $150...
There's a used valve cover on eBay right now for $38.95 and free shipping, and yes, the seller accepts returns...
 
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Old 08-07-2018, 02:46 PM
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Thanks for the eBay lead on the valve cover, XoxoMoxoA, but after viewing the pic it appears that the underside has been cracked and rather shabbily epoxied in an attempt to mend it. Would you concur?
 
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Old 08-07-2018, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by cooper48
Thanks for the eBay lead on the valve cover, XoxoMoxoA, but after viewing the pic it appears that the underside has been cracked and rather shabbily epoxied in an attempt to mend it. Would you concur?
Believe it or not, they all have that crap (whatever it is) smeared in that area.
Look at other listings for other valve covers and you'll see. This one has it too, as do the others...

I have no idea what the purpose of that stuff is. If someone does, I'd love to know.

FYI: While you have the valve cover off, I'd replace the gasket and the four spark plug tube seals, as they most likely need it.
 
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Old 08-09-2018, 02:55 PM
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OK,here we go. Nowadays we don't repair ,we remove & replace so I'll share some old school bullshyt and tell you what I have done on a similar job.
Remove the valve cover with coil attached. Save VC bolts as they are expensive but purchase a new VC gasket (about $15).
Extract coil from VC even if you have to cut bolts. Throw it out and purchase an MSD coil and matching wires.
Fill holes in VC with an industrial epoxy and when hardened drill out same. You could use inserts here and if you do it is best to get BRASS from a plumbing supply.
Go to Dodge and get the hold down bolts for a NEON as the work very well with the MSD. Install rubber grommets under coil bolts and mount on VC. Not too tight as vc cracks VERYeasily.Grommets absorb vibrations and shocks.
Clean everything-paint the VC some really bright color so people will know you worked on the engine (OG)
Carefully tighten down (mixed pattern) VC. Slam hood then rip that stupid R/C aerial off the roof.
ISAMIN
 
  #11  
Old 08-09-2018, 03:05 PM
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Isamin, thanks for the advice. I found a used VC for $39 so that solves my coil problem. R/C antenna is part of the original MC40 package so it stays - sorry.
 
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Old 08-10-2018, 07:41 AM
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Stay away from that crap MSD coil. OEM is great. Has enough for the 600whp cars.
 
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  #13  
Old 08-10-2018, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by MINI33342
Stay away from that crap MSD coil. OEM is great. Has enough for the 600whp cars.
You mean the MSD isn't faster?
It's RED, so it must be faster, right?

Agreed; Stock OE coil is your best bet for both mounting to the V/C and reliable ignition.
 
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Old 08-10-2018, 07:55 AM
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Yep, stock coil is what I'm using. If only some idiot hadn't over-tightened the bolts it would have been a 5-minute swap -- oh well! Does anyone know why the #3 contact on the coil degrades so badly? 1, 2 and 4 are perfect, but #3 is pitted and rusty -- weird. Thanks all for the advice.
 
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Old 08-10-2018, 08:11 AM
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#3 was the only funky one on my old r50.
thats how it goes, ... it goes that way.
 
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Old 08-13-2018, 06:28 PM
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Hello, MINIites. Anyone have a source for the rubber donut washers at the top/bottom of the ignition coil (R53)?
 
  #17  
Old 08-14-2018, 07:14 AM
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I just used some gromments from the hardware store.
 
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Old 08-14-2018, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by cooper48
Yep, stock coil is what I'm using. If only some idiot hadn't over-tightened the bolts it would have been a 5-minute swap -- oh well! Does anyone know why the #3 contact on the coil degrades so badly? 1, 2 and 4 are perfect, but #3 is pitted and rusty -- weird. Thanks all for the advice.
I simply take a bit of sandpaper to it and make sure to use some dielectric grease on it. Keeps them nice and bright.
 
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  #19  
Old 08-14-2018, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by isamin
OK,here we go. Nowadays we don't repair ,we remove & replace so I'll share some old school bullshyt and tell you what I have done on a similar job.
Remove the valve cover with coil attached. Save VC bolts as they are expensive but purchase a new VC gasket (about $15).
Extract coil from VC even if you have to cut bolts. Throw it out and purchase an MSD coil and matching wires.
Fill holes in VC with an industrial epoxy and when hardened drill out same. You could use inserts here and if you do it is best to get BRASS from a plumbing supply.
Go to Dodge and get the hold down bolts for a NEON as the work very well with the MSD. Install rubber grommets under coil bolts and mount on VC. Not too tight as vc cracks VERYeasily.Grommets absorb vibrations and shocks.
Clean everything-paint the VC some really bright color so people will know you worked on the engine (OG)
Carefully tighten down (mixed pattern) VC. Slam hood then rip that stupid R/C aerial off the roof.
ISAMIN

MSD coil from a Neon is junk.
 
  #20  
Old 09-12-2018, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave.O



MSD coil from a Neon is junk.
Rather ignorant response, but guessing its only due to lack of knowlege.
I spent weeks testing various coil packs/wires spark plugs and spark plug gap.

The benefits of an MSD coil pack do not come into play until you START PLAYING WITH THE SPARK PLUG GAP ! .......Having DONE THIS I can say unequivocally that yes the MSD coil pack does make a difference when applied correctly. With the mods on my JCW R53 after testing from .028-.065, I found a .050 GAP was perfect for mods to my R53.

A stock coil pack will NEVER PUSH that much energy across a gap that size. So whats the benefits of increasing gap and energy ?

The increase gap = increased more efficient burn of gasses = more power.

Like the differnce between the heat from a match and a butane lighter.

And never use sandpaper on the contact points of a coil pack.....use green scrunge side of a sponge.
 
  #21  
Old 09-12-2018, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by MINI33342
Stay away from that crap MSD coil. OEM is great. Has enough for the 600whp cars.
Where do you people get your information from ?
 
  #22  
Old 09-12-2018, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by cooper48
New Mini owner here: I'm attempting to replace the ignition coil on my 2004 MC40. Seems like such a simple operation, right? Caveat: the four bolts retaining the coil will neither loosen nor tighten which leads me to believe that in the past someone may have severely over-tightened them and stripped whatever threads are present in the valve cover. Even though the threads may be gone, the coil will still not lift. Has anyone run into this problem before and is there a solution other than removing the valve cover and replacing it? What am I doing wrong? Thanks.
More involved, but maybe remove the spark plugs, then remove valve cover for better leverage.

You probably need new valve cover gaskets, rubber gromets for spark plugs anyways......But word of caution. The knurled brass gromets in the valve cover for those 4 coil pack bolts have been know to unseat themselves from a valve cover in a situation of excessive tightening.....they are heat molded into the valve cover.
 
  #23  
Old 09-14-2018, 09:40 AM
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I need to replace mine as well and I'm just looking at a few and does it matter if the mini is a non S or an S? Some descriptions have vehicle fitment - aspiration: supercharged
Just wondering if it makes a difference?
I just bought a Delphi GN10388 and it said it will fit but it won't. The connector is the wrong size. Any thoughts?
 
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