Mine went out recently and i bought a replacement oe, when i removed the stock one the bolts and rubber rings and metal sheeves all come out together, the new unit came with no new bolts, however the metal sleeves are formed as part of the coil, has anyone run into this problem? i guess i need to just buy new bolts with the head flange to squash the rubber seal ring? any thoughts?

thanks a ton!

 

The Bentley manual says to replace bolts and rubber spacers as necessary. You can get them off; it's just a bit of a process. If memory serves, you have to press on the threaded portion until it comes in contact with the base of the coil. Then you have to ratchet them all the way out.

The part I don't understand is the sleeves. I don't recall ever having to deal with them.

 

heres a pictue of it from the top, as you see the bolts have a sleeve that they come out with, looking at new unit you see the replacement has metal sleeves pre pressed in. not sure what to do here.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...edium/coil.jpg

 

Hmm, that is odd. Two options come to mind. First, you can take both coils to the store and show them the differences. They may be able to figure out a solution, or perhaps the coil is for the wrong engine/vehicle (which I highly doubt anything else uses that design). Second, you can take one of the bolts to the hardware store (e.g. Lowe's) and see if you can find a matching set based on shaft diameter and threads per inch (TPI).

 

Common problem.
The sleeves will come off of the OEM bolts.
It's a little bit of a hassle.
The new coils and the aftermarket ones (MSD) have the sleeves installed.
When putting coil back on, use a little bit of black RTV Silicone seal to hold the rubber grommets in place. If you don't put the grommets in place the mounting bolts will go through the valve cover.

 

Return it and get either an OEM coil or a screamin demon coil. They will work correctly with the stock bolts with the sleeves and washers. This helps isolate the coil from the engine. The engineers came up with those for a reason.
The MSD's and cheapo aftermarket coils don't work with the stock bolts.

 

I have had numerous mis-fires causing the check "service engine soon" light and CFL to come on. This weekend, the car started, but would not get above 2,000 RPM and the highest speed I could manage was 45 MPH. After checking all the plugs and plug wires, the engine still ran rough. My brother in law grabbed one of the plug wires while the engine was running (and got a nice jolt) and then the engine ran great. I've got my power back and the engine has been running great. I suspect the coil as the plugs and plug wires are brand new. Anyone concur?

 

What is the consensus on changing the ignition coil pack as part of a modification. I installed a GP Intercooler, and I am going to install the JCW CAI, 15% pulley, NGK plugs, and get my car tuned. Is replacing the coil pack necessary with all of this?

 

The stock coil is good up to 300 HP. Some of those who upgraded to an aftermarket coil had worse ignition issues than if they had left it alone. I'm still running stock coil and wires. Only the plugs were upgraded.

 

Well yes if you grabbed the wire and got shocked it definetly needs to be replaced. Sounds like the insulation has broken down.

 

What does that mean? How would anyone know this? Coils are not tested by HP, they are tested using an oscilloscope and a volt meter. There is a vendor that said they tested an aftermarket coil on a chassis dyno, that's absurd.

 

Talk to Jan at RMW if you want more details. I'm sure he's done alot of testing, seeing as how he specializes in MINIs.

 

Naaa...no thanks, I already use the MSD Was just wondering where you got the 300hp number?

 

The stock coil puts out 36,000 volts. The MSD puts out 40,000. I just cannot see justifying the $$$ for a 10% increase. The brass terminals are probably worth the upgrade more than the voltage. As for the Screamin' Demon, I've read several stories that convinced me not to buy theirs.

I also don't really see the benefit of upgrading the plug wires with just a pulley/CAI/exhaust upgrade. Referencing this article: http://www.mini2.com/forum/first-gen...lug-wires.html, the resistance value is based on a per-foot basis. Since our MINI plug wires are all less than a foot, I don't really see the advantage (until you get into mad mods like head, cam, header, etc.). Now, I just did a little research, and I found this article that helps to elaborate on EMF noise: http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/DavidKucharczyk/ignition.html. Based on that, I did a quick search on Nology wires, and I found these for sale for MINIs: http://www.racinglab.com/nology-hotw...ooper-002.html (I'm sure there are other sites that have them for less). If I do a head/cam upgrade, I will consider purchasing these.

I definitely believe in upgrading the plugs, being that Silver is the best conductor (I'm sure you've read this thread: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ark-plugs.html).

 

I agree with the wire, I dont see how it could be the coil?? maybe I am missing something here.

 

All, be very very careful when you reinstall the coil bolts on the valve cover, "donot", repeat, "donot" over tighten the bolts, if you do, it may crack the plastic cover.

 

Actually they both put out 36,000 volts. And you are correct, the brass terminals alone make it a better coil, not to mention if you use the MSD wires also, how they "snap" onto the coil, it's very cool. And you forgot the main difference in them...the MSD is bright red...that makes hp by itself The MSD lists for $72.95 on Summit racing, worth it to me

 

You know, the bling factor does make that a nice setup.

 

To Jiminni: You said: "Actually they both put out 36,000 volts." Did that come from the Manufacturer? Just curious. Probably doesn't make much difference.

Living in the Portland area, had Mini-Madness install the MSD, wires, CAI, 15% Pulley, Evotech (custom - canned?) tune, and suspension stuff, but kept stock exhaust. I also put in Pulstar Plugs from Enerpulse, which I use in both supercharged cars (A Buick and MCS). The stock coil was pitted on #3 like everyone says.

All I can say is the Mini is a transformed car compared to when I bought it used last year. Starts instantly, totally smooth and pulls like a train in any gear from 1,500 RPM, and to red-line. Have never seen a CEL light come on. And, the mileage is same or a little better than before all this. Averaging 27.6 MPG, mostly town driving, while the car is rated 21 city 29 highway.

All this talk of what works or doesn't kind of mystifies me if you don't have independent verifiable information that proves why the manufacturer's data is wrong, and in what particular aspect their data is incorrect. The manufacturers do a lot of testing. At least Enerpulse does.

I did exactly as Mini-Madness recommended and the car performs just as he said it would. I am planning on getting a dyno just to see.

-Just my experience and thoughts.

 

Yes that came from MSD.