I have a couple of questions about the valvetronic system on a 2011 Clubman S with codes 2D42 (valvetronic, adjustment range: stop not learnt) and 2D43 (valvetronic adjustment range: Fault range check). The car was purchased not running (timing chain issues). The timing chain and tensioner were replaced, oil pan removed and cleaned out (guide pieces and some fine metal shavings), and water pump replaced due to a small leak. It will start and run but has a stumble at throttle tip in. It was running very rough at the first start up but has smoothed out, and now just does not seem very responsive. It has not been driven on the road yet.

The previous owner had a few trips to the dealer with a complaint of lack of power. Valve cover and intake boot replaced, as well as spark plugs and one coil. One of the dealers recommended replacing the valvetronic actuator and eccentric shaft 30,000 miles ago (currently at 144,000). The previous owner declined the $2789.39 (!!!!!) estimate.

Now for the actuator. The eccentric gear is rotated fully against it's stop in the counter clockwise direction (viewed from transmission side). The actuator can be easily rotated to the other stop with an allen key in the back. Using the schwaben diagnostic tool's valvetronic learn function, there is no change in position of the actuator. With the key in and start button pressed (engine not running) the actuator will rotate all the way back CCW. The scanner does note that there are fault codes before starting the learn process and recommends to repair them first. Well, duh. They are for the relearn we are trying to do. When the codes are erased, there is always a code for the valvetronic adjustment remaining, every time the codes are cleared.

So, the actuator/motor only rotates in one direction by itself - is it bad? winding's, encoder, bad day???? The shaft rotates easily, so did the actuator not eat his Wheaties? The engine is not running for this, right? A new actuator is around $400 so it is a little tough to spend that if the current one is working and it is a software/programming glitch. The nearest dealer is an hour and a half away and from looking at some of the invoices I would prefer to not be fleeced by them.

Is a used actuator the way to go here? I've only found two so far, one posted here six months ago and another on ebay for $70. I am in south Alabama and used parts for Minis are hard to find. Another $700+ for the eccentric and $400+ for the tool to remove it is not going to happen.

This is my second Mini timing chain replacement. The first was a 2008 S hatch that is doing great now. The 2011, besides eating through some of the upper guide before it broke off, had the tensioner unthreaded out the back of the block with the plunger and spring just touching the plastic guide. Lots of shiny metal bits in the oil but no scarring on the camshafts. All of the shavings were in the oil pan, none present in the cylinder head.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

before you do anything, check the timing again...

check my recent experience.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...8-edition.html

 

Thanks for the link, I did not see it in my recent searches.
However, everything is still timed correctly. The flywheel pin slides in and the cam lockers drop right on.

 

try this

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...-gear/Db6g9sBW

also, check the plugs make sure everything is pressed nicely...did you clear the codes and they came right back?

 

I have not removed the actuator yet, I have just been trying the relearn procedure with the eccentric cam in various starting positions.

One of the valvetronic codes will not clear. When I select erase codes and then immediately go back to verify, there is still a valvetronic error. This, along with the actuator/motor moving the eccentric (only in one direction), has me wondering if it is a programming/DME issue. After starting the engine I will get the second valvetronic error. Again the engine will idle smoothly, but stumbles at throttle tip in and does not seem to be very responsive.

I also had an error for the upstream O2 sensor( 2D0D ) and am waiting for it to arrive (wednesday) before I go for a test drive. I may have damaged it when working/laying over the engine.

 

A little update -

New O2 sensor installed and that code has not returned.

Start up was a little rough and stalled after 10-15 seconds of the idle jumping around. Finally settled to a smooth idle but with a little stumble on throttle tip in just like before. Idled in driveway to warm up and try valvetronic relearn again. No luck on relearn and still can't clear 2d43 valvetronic, adjustment range: fault range check.

Well, let's go for a little drive to make sure O2 sensor is fully responding. Trying to leave driveway and half power check engine lights up. Return to house after about a mile of driving to check codes. Dang! Old codes and new codes added -

2D43 - valvetronic, adjustment range: fault range check
3786 - Auxiliary water pump, electrical: Line disconnection
2C01 - High pressure fuel, plausibility, pressure to low
2DA0 - Inlet camshaft: Angle offset with respect to crankshaft outside tolerance
2C58 - Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequence
2DA2 - Exhaust camshaft: Angle offset with respect to crankshaft outside tolerance

2D43 - covered above

3786 - checked and everything appears to be connected ok, recall open on Mini's website so I can go to dealer eventually for this

2C01 - This probably explains the rough running on startup. Checked earlier in the week when the engine was running after warmed up. Pressure looked ok.

2DA0/2DA2 - Panic! Pull valve cover and everything lines up with flywheel pin in place and cam lockers installed. Guessing problem with Vanos solenoids? Maybe some metal shavings form timing chain/guide wear, old crusty oil, age??? I had a different scan tool when we looked at the car and it had P0012/P0015 - Cam position actuator B/A - bank 1 timing over-retard. I thought these were part of timing error if the chain had skipped a couple of teeth. I did not see these return at the first start up after the timing chain. I had it running for at least 30 minutes making sure the air bled out of the cooling system after the water pump replacement. They only showed up during the test drive.

2C58 - Found this video which relates to MiniToBe's example from above and covers the 2DA0/2DA2. I guess its time to order new bolts and try this again, even though everything lines up?

Odd question for tightening crank bolt - at the last step on Newtis https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...shaft/Dd5vhE1u the picture shows tightening the crank bolt with tool 11 9 280 in place with the torque angle gauge, but the instructions say to remove the tool first???? Newtis also shows tightening the exhaust cam first while the instructions show in the youtube video shows intake first? Maybe time to order the Bentley manual for a third opinion.

So -
valvetronic motor/actuator 400+
HPFP 300+
bolts 30+
Vanos solenoids 30 to 100+ each

 

before you buy these items, could you post pictures showing how you locked everything.

you may buy a used valvetronic motor and save. hold on to the HPFP because the pressure might be reduced to save the engine. as for the vanos, swap the front with the rear and see if anything changes (and also try without plugging them (no power) )

where are you located by the way?

 

I don't have any pics and it would be a while before I can get some. Confirmed that the flywheel pin is in proper hole (the automatic does not seem to have the extra holes as in the manual flywheel) checked with equal length rods in spark plug holes. The cam locking tools will only go on all the way with the cams in one position. Both intake and exhaust cams have lettering on top surface and u-shaped portion of cam lock interface pointing down. Vanos units appear to be locked in position (can't rotate with wrench on hex at transmission end of camshaft without cam locking tool on).

I did order new cam/crank bolts, 2 vanos solenoids, and a Bentley manual before I saw your post. I am going to re-time the engine as per your experience and the video I linked above. About to look for other used valetronic motors and start looking for best price on a HPFP. I am going to try a few more cold starts after clearing codes to see if the HPFP codes come back with rough starting before changing it out.

I am in south Alabama near Mobile.

 

I think you should also invest in ISTAD software (K+Dcan usb cable too) for Mini/BMW. this is a dealer level tool that will with no doubt help you fix the issue.

I bought few minis from that area...nice condition despite the flooding few years ago.

 

A little update - after replacing crank/cam bolts/re-timing (even though timing tools dropped on with ease), VVT solenoids, and installing a used valvetronic servo/actuator/motor I am still having some issues. Code 2D43 or 2D42 will not go away no matter how many times I erase codes (ignition on or off). What is still odd is that one will always be there but not always the same one???

The Schwaben tool will go through the motions of a valvetronic relearn but the actuator will not move during this process. The new (but used) actuator will move from stop to stop when the ignition is turned on but not during the relearn. I am unsure if the original actuator moved both directions with the ignition, but it definitely would move counterclockwise when viewed from the HPFP end. So maybe some improvement there. What a pain in the rump to get to the bolts! The eccentric shaft seems to move easily with the actuator, and could be rotated against the spring pressure with the actuator out. After more googling I am starting to think the DME needs to be updated/reloaded.

Other fun stuff with the startup - very rough running with the first crank and died about 30 seconds later. Restarted and running smoother then half power check engine light comes on. Another 2C01 high pressure fuel plausibility, pressure too low, and some misfire codes - expected with the rough start. Really starting to seem like a HPFP is in my future.

Clear codes to go for a drive, 1/4 mile later some bucking/stuttering and more codes. 2DA0 - Inlet camshaft: Angle offset with respect to crankshaft outside tolerance (again!?!) and 2BE9 - Cylinder injection cutout; Pressure too low in high pressure fuel system, as well as some misfires. Check timing again and everything is OK. After a few more 1/2 to 1 mile test drives the only codes are for the valvetronic and 2BE9. I did not monitor fuel pressure during the drives but while parked and graphing the pressure I could not tell how well it tracked the throttle input due to the data/screen lag. I am drawing a blank on what the pressures were. I will check again tomorrow.

After a couple more test runs and attempts to do the valvetronic relearn the camshaft code never came back. Maybe it popped up with the heavy stumble during the first test drive.

So, off to look for the best price on a new HPFP. Mini of Kennesaw at $223. Do bolts only torqued to 10 Nm really need to be replaced? Do most new HPFP come with the o-ring that needs to be replaced?

And for MiniToBe - Is Rheingold the only place to buy ISTAD, what version do you recommend, and do you know if the files are available to reload a DME? I have found a local BMW/Mini independent shop and will be checking with them about reloading the DME.

 

Have you done a compression test? "Timing chain issues" often involve some bent valves.

 

ISTAD is for diagnoses only. ISTAP is the one that does the programming. Get the latest version if you can. The one I have is v57 i think or v53.

If the car was involved in an accident, consider checking the wiring. I bought a car back in the day with front end collision, the MAP sensor was damaged. After 3 replacements and pulling hair, i swapped the dme/cas set with one i had...no codes as a result. So i figured the dme was shot. Got it cloned and was back on the road woth no issues.

 

The compression was 170 psi across all cylinders. I have not done a leak down test yet. It does not seem to have any strange noises when running.

New HPFP should be here in a day or two and I will try more testing after that.

For ISTAP, is Rheingold the only place to buy or??

Local Mini shop says only one hour diagnostic time to reload DME and has seen this before. Still plenty of possibilities for more stuff to fix in the system.

 

I got my ISTAP from Ebay. it is about 90Gb size and will take time to load and set up. depending how much they charge, you have to make a choice. Also, let them know what happens if they reload the DME and it doesn't fix it, would they reimburse at least half the cost.

 

Well HPFP finally showed up. Replaced HPFP and ran leak down before putting everything back together. No cylinder worse than 15% even with the wonky Harbor Freight gauge not returning to zero after disconnecting from plug adapter.

Buttoned up and first short test drive car still not very responsive but rail pressures at idle is many times higher than before. Still can't get valvetronic codes to clear. Continue driving and engine is smoothing out and getting more responsive, and actually seems to have decent power. Return from about 10 miles of driving and car seems fine, and what's this? No codes! I did not have to clear anything. It must have needed a full drive cycle that I was not able to get with the failing HPFP.

Now off to fix the new oil leak from the pan gasket that was installed after cleaning out the pan from timing guide/chain debris. The new magnetic oil drain plug from ECS is nice but the hard washers included are also causing a leak. Time to switch it out for a crushable copper washer. No, it's not just leaking down from the pan gasket either, dripping quite steady after wiping down several times. Also going back with the Loctite sealant instead of the pan gasket. The 2008 we have has no leaks at all from the pan gasket changed four months ago, oh well.

Thanks for your help MiniToBe and Scudder44.

 

My pleasure and anytime brother

 

I am having the same issue with the eccentric shaft motor. Did you ever resolve your issue and if so how? Thanks