How many miles on the car? Did you double check to make sure you didn't leave something disconnected? Does it make any sounds when you turn the key? Do the spark plugs smell of gas?

Code P0128 is related to the coolant not getting warm enough it seems. To me this shouldn't stop the car from running. Here's some more info that you should find helpful related the the P0128 code https://new.minimania.com/msgThread/.../1/P0128_Code_

 

When you changed the starter did you disconnect the negative terminal on the battery first?

 

 

It has 160,000 on it. It cranks but won’t start, pulled the plugs their soaked in gas and I’m not getting spark.

 

 

Might be the ECU got fried when you got the short. When you put the key in and turn it what lights and sounds to you see/hear inside the car?

 

So the car is turning over and wanting to start but it not? Have you tried push startung the car? If so does it act like it wants to start, but just seems like it wants to die?

I had a simaliar issiue with it not starting and it ended up being the ingintion switch. The switch sends the signals to the car to allow it to start as it reads the chip in the key to disable the immobilzer and allows the car to start. It will prevent the car from being push started if the switch has gone bad. The switch can be checked for resistance using a meter.

 

 

Many times the connector on the back of the coild has corroded pins, usually electrical contact cleaner is all it need to get it working again. (especially, if you have disconnected it)

 

I know may sound silly, but did you go back and make sure everything is connected and tighten down correctly? There are a few things that can be checked without diving in too deep for possibly unneed parts.

Follow the below link and check the ingintion switch to make sure its functioning. They include discriptions on how to visually verify the part as well as testing of the part with a multimeter. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...on-switch.html

How is your fuel pressure? It can be checked under the intercooler at the schrader valve on the rail, but you need to remove the intercooler to access it. I would recommend using a fuel pressure guage if you are doing all the work to get to the valve as this will give you a reading on how much pressure you have. You need around 50 PSI +/- 3 PSI at the rail with anything lower indicating fuel delivery issues. The fuel pressure guage can be used to also tell if you are having a pressure loss as well. You can have low fuel pressure with a functioning pump as there are multiple connections inside the tank that might be the issue.

A cursory audio check of the fuel pump can be done by lifting the rear seat up and turning the key while listening. The fuel pump is loud with the seat up so this is easy to check, but it can be fairly brief. This will only tell you if the fuel pump is dead or working, but it will not rule out a weak fuel pump. If you don't hear the pump running take the access cover off and "fonzie" the pump. Then try starting again. This is only a temporary fix if it work as it tells you the pump is going out and will need to be replaced.

Has the fuel filter been replaced? This is one of those parts that Mini claims are a "lifetime" item. If you have not done this then I recommend doing it, especially if you find you do need to replace the fuel pump. The parts are not too expensive, and people are changing them out between every 80k - 100k miles.

As an anecdotal note I went thru the not starting issue as well around the 124k mile mark. For me it was a combination of a failing fuel pump and bad ingnition switch. There were no codes that came up when this happened so it was a shot in the dark the whole way. I replaced the fuel filter at the same time as its easy to get to and I was pretty sure it had never the replaced. The car is running like a champ now with the only issue being some air in the line when I took it around the block after all the new parts were installed.

 

 

 

 

Code P2301 seems to have the common issue of it being the DME (ECU) when it comes up. Thats from searching thru the forums here on NAM. This is something you will want an indy shop or dealer to check as there is talk of alignment between the DME, EWS, and key sensor ring that can go out of alignment. It appears that you can go with a used DME with matching numbers, but will need to have everything aligned in order for it to function properly.

As for replacement there seems to be different options.

 

 

Check all your fuses including the mega fuses near the battery in the back.

If the power cable shorted to ground there is a good chance of a blown fuse or two.

 

 

 

Quite often the cam position sensor and ,or the crank position sensor will go out. Both are needed to get spark and importantly at the right time. The cam position sensor is on the passenger side, towards the back of the head. You need to support the engine and take off the upper motor mount on the engine, one 10mm screw gets it out and a new one back in. (this would be the first one to change.

The crank position sensor is a bit harder to remove and replace. It is on the outside left front on the engine (taken from divers seat) It is also a 10mm bolt. Make sure to replace the o-ring also, as these always leak in time.

 

 

Random multiple misfire, misfire cyl 1, misfire cly 2, misfire cyl 3, misfire cyl 4 and any combo of any of them. And also no spark at all. (if it does spark, but at the wrong time)



The crank sensor can inhibit any cylinders firing, if the sensor is dead, or the contacts on the plug are corroded.