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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
2003 Cooper s won’t start just replaced starter and now I’m not getting any spark the only code I’m getting is p0128 could the temp sensor or thermostat be causing the car not to spark? Already checked coil pack it’s getting continuity and everything is functioning as it should just no spark.
How many miles on the car? Did you double check to make sure you didn't leave something disconnected? Does it make any sounds when you turn the key? Do the spark plugs smell of gas?
Code P0128 is related to the coolant not getting warm enough it seems. To me this shouldn't stop the car from running. Here's some more info that you should find helpful related the the P0128 code https://new.minimania.com/msgThread/.../1/P0128_Code_
I thought I had it all connected but one of the power cable from the battery to the starter I forgot to hook back up and sparked so disconnected the battery again and then connected it. I checked all fusses and nothing was blown.
So the car is turning over and wanting to start but it not? Have you tried push startung the car? If so does it act like it wants to start, but just seems like it wants to die?
I had a simaliar issiue with it not starting and it ended up being the ingintion switch. The switch sends the signals to the car to allow it to start as it reads the chip in the key to disable the immobilzer and allows the car to start. It will prevent the car from being push started if the switch has gone bad. The switch can be checked for resistance using a meter.
Vehicle is not getting spark. I hear the beep tone that the key in in the ignition. Mel light is on and service engine light as well when I run a scan on it the only code i get is p0128.
This is all that came out for my thermostat. I felt around for pieces but found nothing... hmmm
Many times the connector on the back of the coild has corroded pins, usually electrical contact cleaner is all it need to get it working again. (especially, if you have disconnected it)
I know may sound silly, but did you go back and make sure everything is connected and tighten down correctly? There are a few things that can be checked without diving in too deep for possibly unneed parts.
Follow the below link and check the ingintion switch to make sure its functioning. They include discriptions on how to visually verify the part as well as testing of the part with a multimeter. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...on-switch.html
How is your fuel pressure? It can be checked under the intercooler at the schrader valve on the rail, but you need to remove the intercooler to access it. I would recommend using a fuel pressure guage if you are doing all the work to get to the valve as this will give you a reading on how much pressure you have. You need around 50 PSI +/- 3 PSI at the rail with anything lower indicating fuel delivery issues. The fuel pressure guage can be used to also tell if you are having a pressure loss as well. You can have low fuel pressure with a functioning pump as there are multiple connections inside the tank that might be the issue.
A cursory audio check of the fuel pump can be done by lifting the rear seat up and turning the key while listening. The fuel pump is loud with the seat up so this is easy to check, but it can be fairly brief. This will only tell you if the fuel pump is dead or working, but it will not rule out a weak fuel pump. If you don't hear the pump running take the access cover off and "fonzie" the pump. Then try starting again. This is only a temporary fix if it work as it tells you the pump is going out and will need to be replaced.
Has the fuel filter been replaced? This is one of those parts that Mini claims are a "lifetime" item. If you have not done this then I recommend doing it, especially if you find you do need to replace the fuel pump. The parts are not too expensive, and people are changing them out between every 80k - 100k miles.
As an anecdotal note I went thru the not starting issue as well around the 124k mile mark. For me it was a combination of a failing fuel pump and bad ingnition switch. There were no codes that came up when this happened so it was a shot in the dark the whole way. I replaced the fuel filter at the same time as its easy to get to and I was pretty sure it had never the replaced. The car is running like a champ now with the only issue being some air in the line when I took it around the block after all the new parts were installed.
So far all my trouble shooting has lead to the ecm. I’ll check some of the for mentioned ideas you gave to Check but most have already been checked, and rechecked. Very frustrated car cranks over just won’t start.
Getting codes 2301 and 2304, car cranks but won’t start no spark still. Not sure where to go next, cam sensor? Snapped cam? All electrical seem to be functioning properly.
Getting codes 2301 and 2304, car cranks but won’t start no spark still. Not sure where to go next, cam sensor? Snapped cam? All electrical seem to be functioning properly.
Code P2301 seems to have the common issue of it being the DME (ECU) when it comes up. Thats from searching thru the forums here on NAM. This is something you will want an indy shop or dealer to check as there is talk of alignment between the DME, EWS, and key sensor ring that can go out of alignment. It appears that you can go with a used DME with matching numbers, but will need to have everything aligned in order for it to function properly.
As for replacement there seems to be different options.
2003 Mini Cooper s, I can’t get spark, getting code 2301 and 2304. Bad coil? I replaced coil and starter, battery was tested and came back good. Car cranks but won’t start, I’m not getting any spark. The connector does not lock into place on coil pack could that be giving me those codes? Everything I have done shows me car is functioning properly,things I haven’t tried is a compression test and checking the cam position sensor on my live scan it’s showing I’m getting rpms so that would mean the crank sensor is functioning right? Took it to a shop and they told me it was the starter, but now it cranks over with the new one but still no spark. Lost please help.
Quite often the cam position sensor and ,or the crank position sensor will go out. Both are needed to get spark and importantly at the right time. The cam position sensor is on the passenger side, towards the back of the head. You need to support the engine and take off the upper motor mount on the engine, one 10mm screw gets it out and a new one back in. (this would be the first one to change.
The crank position sensor is a bit harder to remove and replace. It is on the outside left front on the engine (taken from divers seat) It is also a 10mm bolt. Make sure to replace the o-ring also, as these always leak in time.
What code should I see if either of those are bad? On the live scan I’m getting rpms, so does that rule out the crank sensor?
Random multiple misfire, misfire cyl 1, misfire cly 2, misfire cyl 3, misfire cyl 4 and any combo of any of them. And also no spark at all. (if it does spark, but at the wrong time)
The crank sensor can inhibit any cylinders firing, if the sensor is dead, or the contacts on the plug are corroded.
