Hello all. Hopefully someone out there has had this problem or know a bit about ignition systems. I've spent all day researching threads and troubleshooting (never had ignition problems before so this has been going real slow).

Drove the Mini up the driveway in the AM. 6 hours later come to start her up and nothing happens when the key is turned to 'Start". Everything in the car powers up and works fine. Key in 'Run' gives fuel pump spin and all the usual. Just nothing more in 'Start'. I've been diagnosing possible faulty starter today. Here's the breakdown:

- 2 yr old Mini Battery tested at Autozone good (650 cranking amps out of rated 480)
- Cleaned up all the ground connections
- Engine strap good
- Clutch switch good
- 12.4V all the way to solenoid live lug
- signal wire disconnected from solenoid has 12V when starting, 0V when connected and starting
- Disconnected signal wire from solenoid and connected 20A fused patch cable in its place from battery post under hood. Result: starter fired right up.

I'm ready to diagnose the ignition switch pins, but it got dark out. Going to jump back on it tomorrow.

One thing of note, my Mini has a leaky hatch handle seal and water seeps into the battery area. It is constantly condensated in there, but no puddles. I don't think it is affecting this issue though since there is no corrosion from it.

 

It's FIXED! Problem was in the ignition switch and the gremlin was oxidized pin 8 to pin 5 contactor. Opening up the switch it was slightly obvious the contact point was darker than others. No doubt from repeated starts with miniscule arcing occuring. Might be able to see it in the uppermost contactor:

Furthermore, taking an Ohmmeter to pins 5 to 8 revealed 1.2 Ohms whereas other connections were all at 0.8. An emory cloth with electronics cleaner got it back down to 0.8, put the puzzle of a switch back together and voila!

Need more time to be sure, but as an added bonus this has also solved the hard starting issue this car has had since I got it (must crank for 5-10 seconds before running). Now starts up crisp everytime. I totally thought that was a fuel pressure regulator issue, but a little more time will tell.

 

usafdrew - I was inspired by your success as I was sure I had a similar issue. I have failed the 'put the puzzle of a switch' back together - my key doesn't turn as far as it used to. I'm sure too much time has passed for you to recall any tips but I thought I'd ask anyway.

 

If your switch wasn't put back together the right way, I'd say your best bet is to take it apart and try again. When I had it apart, I just made a mental note of where the ball bearings and grooved plastic pieces oriented. But getting it back together was mostly just eyeing how things moved in the switch. Best of luck!

 

I have the same prooblem. I just replace the switch is working great now.

 

Here is a link to the diagram and part if anyone needs it. Part number 61326913965

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-question.html

 

Well, I guess one of the benefits of having an old Mini Cooper is that I get to post on ancient threads.

When I turn the ignition key on my Mini Cooper 2004 standard I get no lights on the dashboard but a click and a little humming in the engine bay and that's it.

Pulled my ignition switch out. Multimeter shows there's no contacts between pins 5 and 8. Opening up the switch, I cleaned it and now there's contact.

At the present moment I'm trying to figure out how to get it back together. Right now it won't turn far enough to allow all the contacts to connect. This time pins 5 and 8 never connect because the cylinder within won't turn far enough. I assume it's supposed to allow contact... but I don't want to modify it until I know for sure.

Question: what do pins 5 and 8 do? I cannot see the diagram someone posted a while back unfortunately.

 

Update: pins 5 and 8 are probably for the starter. The only reason I was having trouble making them connect is because that position is strongly spring loaded!

After cleaning and reinstalling the switch my starter solenoid clicked loud and strong like before. Pretty sure my main problem is a bad starter or the solenoid.

 

I don't post on here very much but I just wanted to thank you guys for the info. I have been having this problem and couldn't figure it out. The dealer was not able to fix it either. They could not duplicate the problem I had. So after filing the points on the springs and reassembly it started 5 times in a row. The car has been sitting for almost a year with intermitent starting probs. I'll see how she does tomorrow!!

 

Had the same problem. Ignition lights and radio on but one click then nothing. I pulled the cover off the steering column exposing the ignition barrel and found a two pin plug . It needed reseating and it’s been starting fine after.itll need replacing but by leaving the round cover off the key barrel I can press the plug in if and when it needs it. Hope this helps

 

Just had mine finally go bad. I fixed it in the past doing the clean/fix job and the contacts were really worn and the plastic center part was worn down. Just got a new bremmen part version and all better. Its was not wanting to start and doing weird electrical things at start up. Now its all tight and feels like new on start up.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/61326913965/