So my car would not crank or even attempt to start but it would still pop start if I pushed it and threw it into gear. I brought it to the mini dealership and they said the ignition switch is bad but would cost about 400 to repair.
I looked up the part online and it is only about 80 dollars.
Is it a part I can repair myself?
Or does it need to be programmed to the key or something from the dealership?
Any help would be appreciated since I do not have the money for the repair.

 

I just replaced this myself only two weeks ago. It's really simple. Do you have a Chilton manual? The switch itself is just a plastic piece with a connector and some copper contacts inside. I think that over time, the 'springiness' of the copper goes and the contacts themselves wear out and then , hey presto, no starting.

No key reprogramming is necessary, certainly not on my '02 R53 anyway as the immobiliser portion is on the opposite side of the column. You need to remove the Top and bottom plastic steering column covers (after carefully prying out the rubber around the ignition key slot). The switch is on the left side of the steering column held in place by a couple of tiny set screws (a metal rod actuates the switch). Undo those, take out the switch, remove the connector, put the new one in , and put everything back together and that's it. It's about a half-hour job tops.

 

My '03 R53 just went completely dead with the ignition switch doing nothing. New battery and just back from a long drive. A squirt of WD-40 brought it back to life, but I'm not sure how long that will last. I have the Haynes manual and it has fairly detailed instructions on the shroud and switch removal, but do you need to remove the lock cylinder to remove the switch? Also, where did you get the new switch?

 

You don't need to remove the lock cylinder, which was a good thing as I followed the instructions in my Chilton and failed miserably. The cylinder just controls a rod that passes through to the switch itself.

I got my switch from Pelican Parts, but seeing as you mentioned you had a Haynes I'm going to assume you're in the UK (I'm an expat hence the guess). Unfortunately I'm not familiar with the parts places in the UK, so I can't help you there I'm afraid.

It's a very straightforward job to do yourself - if I can do it anyone can.

 

TSpoonEars,

Thanks for the quick response. I'm not in the UK (bad assumption), so Pelican will get my order. Haynes says to remove the lock cylinder "Insert the ignition key and turn it to the accessory position. Using a straightened paper clip through the hole in the end of the lock housing, depress the locking plunger and withdraw the lock barrel". I'm glad I won't have to try that.

Once I get the new switch installed, I'll report on my success. Currently the switch is still working from the WD-40 bath.

 

My Chilton (which looks exactly like the British Haynes manual I'm used to so maybe it's an East coast/West coast thing like Hellman's mayonnaise) says the exact same thing regarding the lock cylinder.
I could be completely inept at lock picking (quite possible), but I tried for half an hour to remove it and failed miserably even though it sounds so straightforward. Anyway, no need to do that as you'll see.

Good luck!

 

Here is a diagram to help.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...70#61326913965

#1 is the main column , #5 is the lock cylinder (coded part )

#4 is the ignition switch on the other side.


Ignition Switch Part #61326913965


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/61326913965/






Some guys have gotten away with cleaning the oxidation and others had to replace them due to failed internals. Here is a link:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...on-switch.html


Thanks and hope that helps. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the diagram. I just finished and it took me about an hour. My old man eyes were having problems seeing the small stuff. Here are my tips:
• The Torx size for the shroud is T-20.
• After removing the Torx screws, lower the facia panel below the shrouds. My ‘03 just popped down.
• The switch plug has a release on the left side that you pull out and the plug almost falls away.
• Don’t remove the screws that hold the switch completely. They take a small flat-head.
• I had to align the female receptor to the same orientation of the old switch. The new one was off about 90 degrees.

It works! I’m happy. Thanks again everyone.

 

Great, you are welcome.

 

After spending about 3 hours earlier this summer diagnosing that the problem was in the ignition switch, I have been driving around with the lower column shroud off the car; and just jiggling the switch when it wouldn't start. I finally got around to buying the switch and just replaced it. Since I had the shroud off it took me all of 15 minutes to do the job.

No need to remove the upper steering column shroud.

Thanks to JT911 for identifying the type of screwdriver(flat) needed for the job. Because of the size of the set screws I would have assumed a Phillips, Allen or Torx, but you need a very small flat blade. Almost eyeglasses repair kit size.

Good work all!!

 

Hey guys, first of all, I want to thank all those who contributed to this thread. My '04 Cooper S was totally dead and thanks to the contributions of you guys I replaced my ignition switch and the Cooper runs again!

One thing that I would add (that I don't believe was previously mentioned) is that I found it VERY helpful to pull the lower dash panel out, which allowed the lower steering cover to come out completely. This was the only way my big clumsy hands would ever be able to reach and replace the ignition switch. The lower panel just pulls out with a firm yank... No screws... No clips... and it made the job go much easier.

Again, thanks for the help everyone! So glad to have a forum like this to turn to before going to the dealer with my tail between my legs

 

You are welcome. Glad you got it fixed.

Thanks

 

Hey. Just out of curiosity, did you squirt WD40 directly in the key hole or did you take the plastics off the column and spray the electrical portion? My engine doesn't always shut off when I turn the key off and remove it.

 

Hi all,

I found this and related threads while diagnosing a similar issue on my '03 R53. I've cleaned the old ignition switch but now cannot manage to get the key cylinder back in. Has anyone had this problem? Is there some specific technique required to get the key cylinder back in?

It seems the ignition switch needs to be positioned the same way as when the key cylinder was removed, and the same would apply to the key position in the cylinder as well. But when I do this, not all the metal tabs/fingers are lining up with the notches/grooves inside.

Is there some twisting of the key/cylinder that needs to be done when inserting it? Does the key need to be in the cylinder to reinstall? Maybe a magical incantation I need to recite???

Thanks for any guidance you can provide.

 

Wow, that was a really constructive reply. Makes it seem completely crazy that I got the ignition switch disassembled, cleaned, and working again while having no idea what I'm doing or what I'm messing with. That'll sure teach me!

Apparently I need to state more clearly. I put everything back together exactly as it was when I removed the pieces but still have trouble getting the cylinder back in the way it SHOULD be going in.

Maybe anyone besides Dave.0 has something constructive to offer.

 

I have cleaned it in the past, on reassembly you have to put it back exactly how it is :



Show some pics and I can help. Are you having a problem mounting it to the steering column or clamping it back together ?

 

The ignition switch was no problem. Cleaning did rotate the inside cam around, but I used my own picture and the mount location to get it back on correctly.

My problem was getting the key cylinder back in-- removal wasn't required to get to the ignition switch but I only realized it after the fact.

I did get it installed again-- I actually needed to jiggle the steering wheel a bit more to get it to lock back in place. Seems pretty obvious given the steering column lock/release tied to the key cylinder, but I had assumed nothing had moved so it should slide back in easily.

Thanks for the reply.

 

I am having the same problem as the OP.
How can I diagnose its the switch and not the starter itself
I took the car for a drive today and all was well. Then the list time it started by itself the starter acted like taking its last breath.'
After that no starting. I have a new battery

 

I have this exact same issue. Starter sounded weak and now won't turn over.

 

I'm not sure if the issue I'm getting is related to the ignition switch or not. The reason why I'm thinking it has anything to do with the switch is because the issue happens only when turning the ignition off.

When I turn the ignition to the off position the windshield wipers start running and the airbag light will flicker on the dash. The only way to get this to go away is to unconnect a 42-pin connector by the drivers footwell near the fuse box. Anyone else having this issue?

 

Not heard of that one. Have you tried when you turn it off to move it around a little. It might be making contact with something while off. Maybe a broken piece inside making contact?

 

Hi there,
I'm having a problem with a 2007 Mini Cooper I recently bought for a commuter car that I have been having a lot of problems with. Thinking it may be the Ignition Switch?? Hoping to get pointed in some direction as I've been scouring the Internet for a similar problem/solution. I also have a 2004 S that hasn't giving me the problems this one has.
I had the Check Engine light come on all of a sudden. The car seemed fine and had had no issues with it. Took the car home and parked it. Whet to start it again, and nothing. Engine did not want to turn over. Did a battery check and battery was good. Then some of the warning lights came on: engine, key, explanation point, windows started to going up and down slightly. When FOB was removed, the "P" on the Transmission selector was still lit up,radio still functioning(touching brake petal would turn radio off, releasing would turn it on) and we couldn't get it to go off without disconnecting the battery. So even though we turn off the car and remove the FOB, the electrical is still staying on. Car still will not turn over and when turned on, internal lights will flicker off and on.Any suggestions on what we should be looking at? Appreciate any help, this is driving us crazy!

 

Look at that ignition switch first, should cut the power when it's off. Its still making a connection in the switch for a power turn on.

 

I think I'm having the same issues as you. My 2007 Mini Cooper S just stopped working all of the sudden. I put the key in and nothing happens, the only thing that will work is the radio and it doesn't go off unless I push the volume button to manually shut it off. Then randomly out of nowhere I'll put my key in and it'll click, I can push to start and everything like nothing was ever wrong. It's not the battery because I can easily lock and unlock my car. Does anyone know what this might be???

 

All the power stay on with key off
I was in small fender bender d/s front. Radio,Windows and speedometer lights stay on pull out all relays, the only way to cut power disconnect battery