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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
Car suddenly started jerking and running very poorly on freeway. Couldn't maintain speed and barely made it too shoulder and lucky there was an exit. Got towed home. Car starts up no problem every time but immediately runs bad. Checked the codes got P0300 P0301 which are the misfires. This was expected. Also read P002E which is cam profile control circuit low. I think this was triggered because it was running so bad. Also, got P007F which is Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control "A" Supply Voltage Circuit High. I think this was also triggered by poorly running. Also got P2E00 which I have no idea. Maybe the reader mixed it up somehow with P002E. Don't know. Then I got C342D, which is a big mystery. So those are the codes. I suspected hpfp, went through a ton of threads didn't find my issue and codes. I took a closer look and saw white residue on the hpfp at the fuel line connection (the one that goes to fuel rail). See picture. While running, I don't see any leakage. Because I don't see or smell first mean it's not happening. Just not a lot of room. Maybe I need to do a longer test. Has anyone heard of just the fuel line failing? I'm wondering/hoping that if I replace that fuel line this will fix it. Any suggestions?
Thanks! Yeah it us tight. What plug are you referring to? Also my scan tool today showed rail pressure at idle ranging around 700psi (645-830). Not sure about fluctuations but I think 700 is good.
So I'm really puzzled here. My car is missing in every cylinder. It's running really crappy almost no power. CEL is on with misfire codes. No half yellow engine light in tach. I got 700+ psi at fuel rail. Plugs were changed les than 10k ago. I think coils are good. I pulled one at a time while running and heard idle go down then back up when plug back in. My issue came up very suddenly on freeway. I wanted to know: 1) would a bad vanos solenoid cause the engine to run so poorly? And without any related codes other than misfires? If so how can I test the solenoid to be sure that it's failing? 2) Would a bad vanos intake cam timing sprocket cause the engine to run so poorly without any related codes other than misfire and how to test or diagnose that? 3) Would a bad MAF sensor cause my issue without any related codes? How to test and diagnose? 4) if I'm getting 700 + psi at fuel rail at idle normal? It varies from 640 to 835 but mostly around 700. Is this normal and can I rule out hpfp? Car starts every time but runs horribly. 5) Would a bad o2 sensor cause the car to run so bad? When I start it cold as it warms voltage goes up so I think it is working. 6) Throttle position sensor? 7) any other sensors or issues I could check? I checked the timing chain and I'm right at the service limit of 67 to 68 mm. I replaced chain and guides at 105k. Car has 130k. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Minitobe
Before I saw your post I went through it again and well here’s the short story.
1) I’m a ******* because I didn’t pull and inspect plugs to begin with. I just pulled the coil wires and listened. So I pulled the plugs and they have a lot of carbon deposits but also #2 hook is gone! That means pre-ignition. ****. Time for a compression test. Remember, all cylinders were misfiring though. Not sure what’s causing this. Carbon deposits in cylinders? Bad Injectors? Pre-ignition means a lean condition right? How do I isolate the underlying cause here? Bad hpfp? Should I test that? I need a test kit with adapter any recommendations? Or is testing hpfp unnecessary because 700+ psi at rail and no starting issues or related codes like p0087? See picture of plugs.
2) I pulled intake manifold and confirmed heavy build up. Last cleaning 40k ago. Seafoam just before changing plugs didn’t do much I guess. Should’ve put in an oil catch can! Doh! Also saw the gaskets weren’t sealing very well. Oil was seeping through the bottoms of gaskets see pictures.
3)If I’ve got good compression then timing should be good too right? I can check timing. Since manifold is off I can see if valves are closed at tdc right? I don’t know shoot. Maybe I should stop trying to shortcut and do it the right way eh?
Good plug 1 and 3 look like this 4 has white reside on hook instead of brown Bad plug #2 It’s cut off a bit but you can see it’s spitting back into the manifold. This is #2 and the rest are clean. 2 is the one with bad plug #2 intake bales are clean probably because it was blowing back unburdened fuel I’m not sure. #1 with build up and not oil seeping through bottom of gasket (right center of photo). 3 and 4 look just like this #3
Cylinder 2 has ZERO compression. The rest were at 115 on the nose. Dry test. Battery ran down so I couldn’t do wet test but with #2 at 0psi that was pointless. Also test was done cold with entire intake tubes and manifold removed. So I’m wondering if maybe a piece of carbon stuck on the seat of intake valve preventing it from closing. Remember the intake runner had a bunch of light brownish and wet (unburdened fuel) blowing back. Am I wasting my time cleaning it or should I just pull the head?
Can you determine if the intake or exhaust is leaking air?
I feel either way you might have to take the head off unless you can prove a stuck object at the valves and you can remove it. That spark plugs hook can cause serious damage. The worst I've seen was a chipped cyl wall. Might also want to get a camera in there.
Last edited by MiniToBe; Feb 24, 2018 at 04:26 AM.
I don’t have a leak down tester with zero compression in 3 (not2) Im gonna have to pull the head. I’m pretty sure there’s damage. But does anyone know the proper compression psi on a cold and dry test? I’m not seeing this in the Bentley manual. Intake manifold was removed so no need holding gas pedal down.
Can you inject air into the cylinder and see where it comes out from? I know either way the head needs to come off, but at least you have a clear direction of what to expect.
You are absolutely right. I will check #3 is closed and shoot some air in there. With zero compression I should hear where that sucker is leaking. Right now I got it locked at #1 90° BTDC. I know cyl 1 intake and exhaust are closed. I forget how the other cylinders are without looking at it. I’d really like to leak down test all cylinders. The 115 psi is concerning. 🤔 It sounds really good though. I can really hear the compression popping in those other cylinders. I could have a bad gauge. Not likely but I’ll try another. The leak down might give me some info about those other cylinders. I read that 170 is a good number so at 115 I’m concerned just fixing cylinder head will not fix my problem. This is all a big mystery because car was running great then all of the sudden loss of power. There was no noticeable or gradual loss in power before it gave up.
Last edited by shanksamillion; Feb 24, 2018 at 10:25 AM.
Reason: Spelling
Why cylinder 3 gave up is a mystery. I’d really like to know why. But in addition to that I need to figure out why I’m only getting 115 in the other cylinders. Before I start thinking bottom end I want to rule everything else out. Would a bad intake vanos sprocket cause a consistent loss of compression across all cylinders? Or maybe is it possible that there’s so much gunk on those intake valves that they can’t quite seal up all the way? Anything else not bottom end?
Noticed a good chunk of the electrode is missing on one of the plugs. Soo, my theory is that chunk took out an exhaust valve and probably damaged the turbo..
What year car and how many miles on it for this to happen ??
2008 almost 130k and the head was off at 90k at dealer. I forget what they did I’m trying to find the record. Mini actually covered the job even though it was out of warranty. Long story but it was like $7000 of work. It had a timing chain issue a couple years later and I did that work and it’s run great since then. That timing chain job I did was 3 years ago.
Cylinder 2 blew a huge hole in exhaust valve. I kinda had a feeling this was the case going into it after seeing what happened to the spark plug in that cylinder. I have some questions. I think I need to start a new thread.
