When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
I have a 2004 Mini Cooper (R50) where the fuel pump quit. I replaced the fuel pump today, and while I was under the seat i also replaced the fuel filter. Oddly enough, it was easier to replace the fuel pump than the filter. Regardless, my daughter's car now starts but now the fuel gauge reads empty even though i have a full tank. I have read that it will eventually start working. Anyone have any advice? Will it magically start working or is there a computer reset that needs to be done?
I've replaced both these parts and the fuel gauge was working fine afterwards. No computer reset is necessary. Are you sure all the electrical connections are good?
If you reconnect all the electrical connections after the job, then it is possible the fuel level pickup was damaged from mishandling. It is a potentiometer and is quite delicate at the wiper. The wirings (blue) are also delicate.
Quiz of the day. Have you ever wonder why the electric fuel pump, made of DC motor with brushes does not turn your fuel tank into a readymade IED? If you ever play with these motors you know they create all sorts of sparks when energized. Sparks and petrol cannot be good.
It was an aftermarket fuel pump. I double checked and the sending unit appeared to make good contact with the float arm and all the connections are solid. Car starts better than it has in a while with the new pump. The only odd item is the fuel gauge will not work.
On a side note, I did not know there was a sending unit on the filter side. In fact i did not even see a sending unit. Do the 2004 Base Mini Coopers have a second sending unit. If so, I guess it is possible that i could have damaged it while replacing the fuel filter.
Would think that the part is either "vapor proof" or "explosion proof." The bigger issue would be how the amp draw that creates heat is addressed.
Back in ~ '76 when I was a Volvo mechanic, they told us the fuel pump sparking wouldn't start a fire or such because there was no oxygen available when in the liquid gasoline and the pumps themselves were "explosion proof" just in case. And they were cooled by the fuel itself.
A side note - don't welders say they's rather work on a full fuel tank than a partially full or empty tank because of the fumes ?
-Mike
i didn't pull it out far enough to see the extra items. I don't think i damaged the sender. Perhaps i have a defective new fuel pump. There are posts out there that stat it will come back to life after a few days of driving. Any truth to those comments?
Lots of info here on the fuel filter cartridge side and the level sensor. Possible the other side float was bad. Its has two sensor. One on the fuel pump side and one on the filter side. But check that ar, if you bend it and it does not sense the arm, then that could be an issue. 16146765122/
New symptoms with my fuel filter and fuel pump replacement. The gas gauge still does not work so either the fuel pump is defective or I unknowing damaged the sender on the fuel filter side. However, now there is a very strong gas smell on the outside of the car. Not the inside, but the outside. What would be causing this. Is the fuel pump sending too much fuel to the injectors? Again, the smell is only on the outside. No visible leaks in the engine compartment or inside the car. The smell is coming from the right (passenger side) rear.
Last edited by backsidedriver; Dec 13, 2017 at 07:57 PM.
Ok, so scratch the gas smell, this was my fault. I took the filter assembly out again and discovered that the rubber o-ring gasket was not seated properly. re-seated it and boom, no more smell. So, my only issue is still a gas gauge that does not work :-(
Ok, well one thing fixed at least. My guess is the other side level sensor or the one you put in got bumped near the sensor. Do you have a scan tool, I would get this and select the fuel sensor and see if you can get it to read both sides. Or if you can get a code when you scan the system. It's on sale right now also.
