Recently replaced my passenger-side axle, and in doing so, I must've upset the output shaft seal (p/n 23117518638) as it's begun to seep over the past couple weeks.

Yes I know... I should've thought to replace the seal when the axle was out, so this is on me, but what I've noticed is there's not a whole lot of dialogue on this forum for doing this job.

Outside of draining the gearbox oil and removing the axle, is it just the standard operation of prying out the old seal and gently and evenly tapping in the new seal, or are there implications unknown to me that should be considered?

Pelican has a DIY (HERE) for the R56. Outside of the differences in chassis components, is it basically the same for the R53?

 

Interesting that you are having this problem, as it is now an issue for me. According to my research, for MINIs made from 2007 to 2011, there are some suggested special tools. One tool is needed in order to remove the old seal, so as not to damage the area where the new seal will be seated. Also, a special tool is suggested, in order to place the seal into proper position. It is also my understanding that the axle needs to be removed to do this job. According to the Pelican article, which you referred to earlier, removal of the axle is not required.
I would be interested to know what difficulties you had, if any, when you replaced your axle.
Cheers.

 

You shouldn't have to drain any fluid for an R53, the fluid line is below the axle. Simple as popping the axle back out, pry out the old seal, clean the area with some brake clean, install new seal, reassemble car.

I've just repurposed a socket as a "seal driver" on a long extension, just make sure you're tapping on the outer lip of the seal, the inner section is just a dust cap and will crush and cause problems.

 

Figure 10 of the DIY specifically mentions removing the axle.
There's no other way to replace the seal (on any transaxle) without first removing the axle.

I had no difficulties whatsoever removing my passenger-side (or driver's side) axles. Outer ball joint connection to lower steering knuckle needs to be unbolted (2 bolts), and control arm lowered. Axle nut was removed, and outer axle slid out of wheel bearing hub. Once the center support bearing carrier was unbolted (3 bolts), she came right out the passenger wheel well.

Top Tip: Remove the power steering fan and lower motor mount to create more room, making this job much easier...

Easy Peasy...

 

Thanks Nick.

Your always solid advice is a tremendous resource to those on this forum!

 

Thank you.