My '09 R56 has 109,000 care-free miles on it. Just had a rear brakes done at my local dealer, and the service manager told me that my output shaft seal is developing a leak. He recommended that I get it taken care of soon. Then he hit me with the bad news. Although the part is less than $100, the labor kicks it up to just over $2000. That hurts, and it seems a bit excessive. That's almost 15 hours (@ $130) just to replace the seal.

Was he being alarmist? I don't want the seal to let go and lose fluid. I would expect that would do more damage to the transmission. Also, is that labor estimate (14.5 hrs) in line or way too much?

I read in the R53 threads that someone had this done, and his mechanic spent 3-4 hours on it. Not sure how different this is on the R56, but I can't see 5 times the labor.

Any opinions or suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

 

One shaft seal is $32. 3-4 hours might even be pretty long for a trained tech. I'd get it fixed but walk on that estimate.

 

Thanks, Mike. That's what I was hoping to hear. I'll look around for an independent tech locally and get it done soon.

 

+1. ^^^^

Don't pay dealers labor prices if you don't have to because they're not just high per hour but they also use helium to overinflate the hours needed to complete the job. I feel lucky to be close to Motoring magic.

 

2.5 hours labor. I know motoring magic charges 99/hour.

 

You said output shaft seal. I'm guessing that you mean rear main seal? According to the Bentley manual, the transmission needs to be removed to replace this seal. If that's correct, I'm guessing that it would be more than 3-4 hours. And since my MINI has a manual trans, I know I'd be replacing the clutch if I'm pulling the trans.

But as mentioned above, I would definitely be finding an independent shop. There's no way I'd be at the dealer with their prices!

 

Yes you need to clarify if they mean the axle output shaft seal, or engine rear main seal.
an axle seal is usually 2hr labor or less
a rear main seal requires removing the trans which could easy be 15hrs

 

I have a few questions about the transmission output seals...I've tried the Pelican Parts DIY write-up, but the seals are very, very, very, very firmly seated in the bearing hole, and although I did manage to mangle one up and pry it out after several attempts with the prybar and a healthy amount of PB Blaster, the other one (driver's side) won't even budge. The seal just won't yield, even with a huge amount of leverage & force. You'd almost think it was cast or reinforced alloy! I already put a few nicks & gouges in the bearing lip on the right-hand side of the differential from the seal I did get out, and am having a great deal of trouble putting that new seal in at current.

The Pelican DIY write up explained it like a cake walk, but the reality is vastly different. I spent over an hour and a great deal of frustrated murmuring in several fruitless attempts to get that seal in there, but it always goes in slightly canted, and can easily pop back out with just my fingers. I'm using a 2" PVC cap as a seal installer as some have suggested, but my hammer is 32oz, and probably doesn't have enough oomph to really get on it. I'm replacing the seals as a preventative while I'm in there for the clutch. The entire subframe, steering rack, axles, and suspension are all still dropped, so I've full access to the transmission from below.

I've some loaner tools from O'Reilly, consisting of a 5 lb slide hammer & tri-arm puller attachment, which I tested to fit inside the old seal to ensure good bite and no interference with the transmission internals. I've also put the new seals in the fridge so that they'll contract a little bit for ease of installation.

Getting to the point, is it safe for me to use this slide hammer assembly to yank the seal out of the transmission, and then use that same slide hammer to install the (chilled) seals? There isn't a writeup that I can find anywhere on how to install the specific seal for an R55/R56 Cooper. Other videos are useless, as the MINI has that metal guard on the outside, and the seal is a much tighter tolerance than even the rear main seal or transmission input seals, almost impossibly so.

 

My dealer supplied a Cost estimate of $300 to replace the RMS on my 2008 MCCS. But it isn't leaking, so I passed.

 

Any updates or suggestions on this? We’re all done with the clutch and ready to put everything back together but can’t get this dang seal in place and it took forever to get out! Can’t find ANY info online 🤬🤬

 

Having the same issue as discussed here with the drive shaft seal (axle seal) not going in evenly using 2 inch pvc reducer per some comments at Pelican for the procedure. Looking to get a metal seal installer that is hollow in the middle so that it doesn't damage the dust shield on the seal. Any recommendations out there? I am dead in the water with my daily driver on jackstands. Anyone else solve this issue before?

CaddyDad

 

Scratched the output shaft sealing surface when trying to remove and install the axle seal . Had the car towed to a local shop where they said, after holding on to the vehicle for 5 days and not not even looking at it, that they will not work on it because of customer-caused damage that they wouldn't be able to guarantee their work. Thus, I am going to have the car towed back to my house today and try to sand the sealing surface smooth, then use a small amt RTV to try to install and seal any imperfections. Unless someone has any other suggestions.

In terms of the seal installer, I did purchase some black-iron piping and related reducer that fits perfectly so we will see how that goes when I try to reinstall.

Thanks!

 

Success with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper, some RTV insurance, and to install it... a 6" piece of 2" black iron pipe, 2" to 1" reducer, and an 18 inch 1" extension to help install the seal on the left side.

Let me know if anyone else is struggling. Glad this is behind me.

 

I didn't even bother sanding mine, just used Permatex Black silicone around the outer lip of the seal and installed with a 5 foot section of 2" PVC pipe and a hammer. Been leak free for over a year now.

 

I am trying to replace both output shaft seals (driver and passenger side). I have both CV axles out, but the seals are completely STUCK in place and I cannot get them out. I have used a seal puller tool from Autozone (looks like a mini pick ax), seal puller tool (one with threaded rods), and pry bars. I removed both dust shields successfully, but the seals won't budge! At this point, a lot of the edge that I was pulling on have been mangled up and I'm running out of places to pry against.

Any advice on what to try next? I'm afraid that the seals will eventually be so damaged, I won't be able to get them out. How did you all manage to get these out?