I have a 2008 Mini Cooper S. A couple of weeks ago, it was giving out random error codes, but running properly. Errors started out with bad fog light, brake on, and then became combinations that did not make any sense, when I looked them up using the manual.


Then, before I could get it to the mechanic, it began (on each different start):
- showing error lights and making a grinding noise on one start;
- then the lights, grinding noise and it started then died;
- then the lights, grinding noise, what sounded like sparks under the dashboard;
- then it finally wouldn't start at all.


My mechanic said it was a bad battery and replaced it. I took it home and literally the exact same pattern as listed above happened within a couple of days.


This time, the mechanic said it was a bad starter and then a bad fuel pump. He replaced them both - very costly! When my husband picked up the car at the shop, the exact same error lights came back on and there was the sparks noise again.


At the time, they said they think the error lights and the sparking noise were being caused by a faulty fuse block and CAS unit. They would have to pull out the dash (6 hours of labor) to determine this. We chose not to have them do this at this time, since they said everything else was fixed.


In 2 days, the exact same pattern happened as above. Now they are saying that the fuse block and CAS unit caused all the issues - it killed the battery; killed the starter; and broke the high pressure fuel pump. So they want to fix the fuse block and CAS unit which would put us at about $6000 in repairs. And another $3000 on top of that if the starter and fuel pump have gone bad again.


My main question is - can a starter and high pressure fuel pump BREAK from a faulty fuse block and/or CAS unit? I get that it may cause them not to work properly, but break them to the point of replacement? And if so, shouldn't they have known this could happen and told us before we drove off? Unfortunately, they are the only mechanic that works on Minis in my area.


Thanks so much for any advice/help.

 

I think you took your car to basically crooks who know nothing about trouble shooting or how to repair a car...might as well buy you a new car and give it to you instead of repairing it...now that's out of the way...where are you located>? the CAS or fuse box have nothing to do with it. Im glad that you stopped them from just wasting your money!
If the car keeps dying every two days, then the alternator isnt charging the battery properly.
take the car to another place or if you're close to philly, i'll be happy to take a look at it.

 

could the fuse box in the pass kick panel cause no power to the fuel pump ? tested the fuse with a multi meter with the car in the run position and no power. if I run a line from the battery to the pump it works fine.

thx brian

 

it could. sometimes water gets in there and effects the operation. Also, a loose plug can cause the issue.

 

our car has a sun roof, I read that the sun roof drain can leak into the fuse box, is that myth or poss ??

thx brian

 

correct.

 

does the car need reprogramed if I swap the kick panel fuse box out ? I saw on the forum how to replace it, its' something I can do.

thanks

 

if you match it with same part number, you dont have to. Otherwise it is better to reprogram it. The goal now it finding if the fusebox is indeed the issue.

 

I found 2007 s kick panel fuse box on e-bay. I have no power to pump when the key is on. no power at the fuse f43 for the fuel pump, the relay is behind the fuse in terms of power. i.e. the fuse gets power first. it ran great till thurs when it cranks and no fuel. pulled the line at the sub frame to make sure, and I do have spark.

thx

 

before you buy the fusebox, take yours out and take it apart. then see if there is water intrusion. if the fuse box is cheap, get it and try it out. you can also check car-part.com for more deals

 

thanks, will do . what if I don't see any sort of water damage ? can I ohm check the relay on the board ? why else would I not have power to the pump fuse? any other diag I can do ?

 

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...supply/cpOA4eI

this is a wiring diagram you could use to see if the DME is sending a signal to the relay.

 

that's great. thanks , so I need power from the dme purple / green wire, it should be 12 volts ? if I do have power the box is bad, if no power then the dme has an issue need needs to go to the dealer. I've been unable to find any info like this via any screech engine

 

need not jump ahead too far. check the signals first. 12v is correct or at least anything above 5v. I am not sure if the signal is momentary. make sure you also try to get a reading while cranking IF you dont get a signal the first time.

if no signal at all, test for continuity to the DME from the fuse box ( purple / green wire).

one step at a time dont assume anything and dont overwhelm yourself.

 

great will do, I will ck for power @ the dme wire with the key in the on poss, and crank poss. when i check for continuity, you mean ohms ? correct (for a break in the wire) the other end of the dme is under the dash or under the hood ? thx. I got some happy news to tell my wife. jeeps are much simpler. lol

thx again

 

if you go back to the wiring diagram and click on the blue text, it will open another page showing more details about that text like location or picture of the connector. Finally, I would start at the fuse box first then work backwards.

 

thanks, I did hit the link, that you mentioned https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...ystem/FAP7GaY0 ( it's shows a pick up/ pump on the wrong side . but that just may be for general info? ). I did find the purple/green wire on block #4 as pictured lower in the diagram, with the key off I have 12 volts !! that threw me for a loop. it shouldn't have 12 volts with the key off. the diagram in the link states that the fuel pump relay is external. I did test it for ohmns between post 1 and 2 I have .006 ohns and I tested @ 20k button on the meter. I would assume I have power between post #3 and 5 ?? I did swap in another relay, the prongs were as wide, cranks and clicks from the pump. it was worth a shot to try if we didn't live near Pittsburgh i'd thank you in person. i'll check back monday before work

thanks again Brian

 

opps I was in a hurry sat. and didn't finish posting my results. I did get 12 volts with no key at the purple/green wire ,then got power with key and at start up. the white/blue had no power. but the one time that I didn't have a multi meter on the white / blue wire going to the pump I did hear it come alive. swapped replays again. no start up.

 

I think that relay is unique to the other relays. If you run power through the white/blue, would the car start? Unpin it and try that. make sure all the plugs are pushed in good.

 

I forgot to mention, you need to have the fuse box screwed tight into the chassis for (-) connection.

 

working by my self it's not easy to do both. all I did was remove the plastic trim around to box to get to the wire easier, when I wife gets home I can try it. I did have the pump wired to the battery and it pumped before, didn't have a extra set of hands to start it. I did put back seat back in, i'll try to get power from the batter to the kick panel, were the white/ blue wire is

 

yep, just removed the plastic trim. well ad power at lunch

 

at lunch I used a wire with alligator clips, clipped it to the white / blue wire at the kick panel fuse box, and touched it to the battery. test one was with the key in the run poss. that pump came on, test two was to crank it the engine, pump was on as well. no start. when you say unpin ? I left all plugs in the box, I have not removed any. just cut in to insolation to get reading, or jump voltage.

thanks again for your help

 

by unpin i meant to take the wire out of the plug so the voltage only goes to the pump and not back feed to the fuse box circuit. if the pump worked and the car still did not start, then there is another issue we need to narrow down.

did you try swapping the relays next to the ECU, the green ones?

Did you check the ground wire on the valve cover?

did you check the ground strap on the engine mount?

did you buy the new fuse box to test if you have a bad fuse box before spending time trouble shooting?

 

I have swapped them around. 2 seem to be fan related, the other 2 are marked engine ? what ever that means. I will double check the grounds. i'm going to the store now to get a new relay. the one I swapped in has a different layout :( shoulda looked sooner. no I didn't order a box yet. does the pump need a signal ? other then power ? there is 5 or 6 wires that go into the pump .

thax