Can a bad fuse block or CAS unit cause a starter/fuel pump to fail?
#27
02-04-2019, 11:13 AM
by unpin i meant to take the wire out of the plug so the voltage only goes to the pump and not back feed to the fuse box circuit. if the pump worked and the car still did not start, then there is another issue we need to narrow down.
did you try swapping the relays next to the ECU, the green ones?
Did you check the ground wire on the valve cover?
did you check the ground strap on the engine mount?
did you buy the new fuse box to test if you have a bad fuse box before spending time trouble shooting?
did you try swapping the relays next to the ECU, the green ones?
Did you check the ground wire on the valve cover?
did you check the ground strap on the engine mount?
did you buy the new fuse box to test if you have a bad fuse box before spending time trouble shooting?
#29
02-04-2019, 11:38 AM
[QUOTE=MiniToBe;4448177]Excellent. I would also urge you get a replacement fuse box just in case. Whenever I do flooded Minis, the first thing I replace is the fuse box and would be back in business 
[
ok, i'll post an up date after I get the relay, the area by the box is totally dry pulled up as of the carpet/ foam as I could. just a few sink dead bugs under the fuse box
[ok, i'll post an up date after I get the relay, the area by the box is totally dry pulled up as of the carpet/ foam as I could. just a few sink dead bugs under the fuse box
#30
02-04-2019, 04:02 PM
The Fuse box will be the issue with the LPFP. The relay for the LPFP is not a plug in type. It is integral to the fuse box circuit board. It is a water intrusion problem caused by plugged drains from the sun roof. There are 4 drains. Check under the carpet. If water is found, remove the carpet and dry everything out. Check the trunk well(under the foam insert). If there is water the rear drain(s) are leaking. Get the drains fixed first, then address the electrical problems.
#31
02-11-2019, 11:13 AM
local parts store didn't have one in stock go figure, so 24 hours later they sent me a bmw 5 post/leg relay, no go mine has 4. got one from ecs tuning, was the rite one. Put in Friday nite after work. same as before :( didn't start, didn't have power. ordered a used fuse box. be here Friday ? ish I'll update when I get it in
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ECSTuning (02-11-2019)
#32
02-11-2019, 11:16 AM
The Fuse box will be the issue with the LPFP. The relay for the LPFP is not a plug in type. It is integral to the fuse box circuit board. It is a water intrusion problem caused by plugged drains from the sun roof. There are 4 drains. Check under the carpet. If water is found, remove the carpet and dry everything out. Check the trunk well(under the foam insert). If there is water the rear drain(s) are leaking. Get the drains fixed first, then address the electrical problems.
#34
02-12-2019, 03:14 AM
If you want to wire around the JBE, it can be done but I don't know which wire coming off the JBE feeds the LPFP or which wire energizes the relay. To test the LPFP, and get it running so it can be driven, run a wire directly from the FP fuse location to the LPFP. Put a fuse and an on/off switch in this wire so you can protect and control the pump.
#35
02-12-2019, 05:53 PM
#36
02-14-2019, 07:49 AM
#37
02-14-2019, 10:31 AM
I never thought to jump it, it did run 12 volts the pump wire at the fuse box to see if it had life, but not to run it..
#38
02-14-2019, 10:57 AM
the fuel pump fuse is before the relay. It will not run current to the pump because the relay contact is open. To test the pump, unplug where the white-blue wire is and run 12v power to that pin and the pump should run. Good luck
#39
02-20-2019, 12:04 PM
so we had the car towed to p and w mini of Pittsburgh Tuesday and to day that send up a e-mail and they said the reason it won't start is due to a cracked air tube from the air box to the turbo is why the car won't start. wtf ? I have no fuel pressure. I doubt that replacing this hose will make the car start. any thoughts I did have a po420 low efficiency o2 code. could the hose have any thing to do with that ? I just replaced the hose as I had ripped the old one removing it.
#40
03-05-2019, 10:06 AM
update, the dealer service report states, the engine was flooded with gas, and had no compression. that put oil in the cylinders and got it to fire. how did the pump finally turn on ? and how did it flood with gas ??? I've worked in service for many years to hear it had no compression because the engine was flooded with gas makes no sense to me. old cars or tractors with carbs leaked gas, replace the parts in the carb, and they will fire.. wtf ??? I think there was more but they just didn't say it. i'm gonna buy my own compression gauge, and check it my self.
#41
03-05-2019, 11:08 PM
update, the dealer service report states, the engine was flooded with gas, and had no compression. that put oil in the cylinders and got it to fire. how did the pump finally turn on ? and how did it flood with gas ??? I've worked in service for many years to hear it had no compression because the engine was flooded with gas makes no sense to me. old cars or tractors with carbs leaked gas, replace the parts in the carb, and they will fire.. wtf ??? I think there was more but they just didn't say it. i'm gonna buy my own compression gauge, and check it my self.
#42
08-26-2019, 07:35 AM
the electric pump runs on Pulse Width Modulation principle. On/ off to maintain pressure up to the HPFP due to it being a returnless fuel system. Meaning, there is no fuel pressure regulator. The engine probably flooded because either your HPFP solenoid failed and the injectors are trying to keep the car on and they open way too much. But the fuel does not atomize because it’s running at 70 psi vice 3000 psi. Another reason the cylinder floods is a stuck open injector, which happened to me. The HPFP should show as a fuel metering problem code. You have to change the oil ASAP because it’s probably soaked with fuel. Hope this helps.
#44
01-03-2020, 06:05 AM
I have a 2008 Mini Cooper S. A couple of weeks ago, it was giving out random error codes, but running properly. Errors started out with bad fog light, brake on, and then became combinations that did not make any sense, when I looked them up using the manual.
Then, before I could get it to the mechanic, it began (on each different start):
- showing error lights and making a grinding noise on one start;
- then the lights, grinding noise and it started then died;
- then the lights, grinding noise, what sounded like sparks under the dashboard;
- then it finally wouldn't start at all.
My mechanic said it was a bad battery and replaced it. I took it home and literally the exact same pattern as listed above happened within a couple of days.
This time, the mechanic said it was a bad starter and then a bad fuel pump. He replaced them both - very costly! When my husband picked up the car at the shop, the exact same error lights came back on and there was the sparks noise again.
At the time, they said they think the error lights and the sparking noise were being caused by a faulty fuse block and CAS unit. They would have to pull out the dash (6 hours of labor) to determine this. We chose not to have them do this at this time, since they said everything else was fixed.
In 2 days, the exact same pattern happened as above. Now they are saying that the fuse block and CAS unit caused all the issues - it killed the battery; killed the starter; and broke the high pressure fuel pump. So they want to fix the fuse block and CAS unit which would put us at about $6000 in repairs. And another $3000 on top of that if the starter and fuel pump have gone bad again.
My main question is - can a starter and high pressure fuel pump BREAK from a faulty fuse block and/or CAS unit? I get that it may cause them not to work properly, but break them to the point of replacement? And if so, shouldn't they have known this could happen and told us before we drove off? Unfortunately, they are the only mechanic that works on Minis in my area.
Thanks so much for any advice/help.
Then, before I could get it to the mechanic, it began (on each different start):
- showing error lights and making a grinding noise on one start;
- then the lights, grinding noise and it started then died;
- then the lights, grinding noise, what sounded like sparks under the dashboard;
- then it finally wouldn't start at all.
My mechanic said it was a bad battery and replaced it. I took it home and literally the exact same pattern as listed above happened within a couple of days.
This time, the mechanic said it was a bad starter and then a bad fuel pump. He replaced them both - very costly! When my husband picked up the car at the shop, the exact same error lights came back on and there was the sparks noise again.
At the time, they said they think the error lights and the sparking noise were being caused by a faulty fuse block and CAS unit. They would have to pull out the dash (6 hours of labor) to determine this. We chose not to have them do this at this time, since they said everything else was fixed.
In 2 days, the exact same pattern happened as above. Now they are saying that the fuse block and CAS unit caused all the issues - it killed the battery; killed the starter; and broke the high pressure fuel pump. So they want to fix the fuse block and CAS unit which would put us at about $6000 in repairs. And another $3000 on top of that if the starter and fuel pump have gone bad again.
My main question is - can a starter and high pressure fuel pump BREAK from a faulty fuse block and/or CAS unit? I get that it may cause them not to work properly, but break them to the point of replacement? And if so, shouldn't they have known this could happen and told us before we drove off? Unfortunately, they are the only mechanic that works on Minis in my area.
Thanks so much for any advice/help.
