Bought a 2008 Hardtop Base (automatic), 97k about five weeks ago and have been fighting the engine light since week one.

Gas cap - replaced
Solenoids - replaced 2
Camshaft sensors - replaced 2
Air filter - replaced
Timing chain and tensioner and rails and sprockets and everything remotely related - replaced
Dropped the oil pan and cleaned out plastic rail bits
Changed oil twice, and oil filter; cleaned out everything we thought could possibly have plastic rail bits
Timing - adjusted after husband accidentally set it to 180 rather than 90 when replacing chain
Cleaned MAF, MAP, throttle body
Replaced vacuum hose
(and probably more I can't think of this second)

Since changing out the whole timing chain shebang, the car has been sputtering and lurching a little while driving at higher speeds (and stalling at stop lights and in stop-and-go traffic) and giving us a P0010 code.

When we start the car, it splutters and the idle goes up and down randomly, even without any touch to the gas or brake pedals.

Husband's been a DIY mechanic on our cars since his first BMW back in 1996, so we'd prefer advice on what we need to tackle next and take it to the dealership as a last resort.

Any ideas?

Also, my apologies if I've left out pertinent info ... this is my first post, so please be gentle with me.

 

Okay, small update. We've been getting a P0010 and my husband found that one of the solenoids keeps coming unplugged. He'd replaced both camshaft sensors just before that and the car was running fine - 2nd replacement on those, but he said they just aren't always good when you buy them - but now that the check engine light/p0010 has gone away and that solenoid is plugged in, we're back to spluttering and dying at stop lights and right at start-up; blowing a little white smoke then, too.

Help?

Thanks!

 

My favorite question --- was the timing set according to the Bentley manual? Some of the other manuals don't mention using the chain tensioner tool, which can cause timing to be set slightly off.

Another performance issue is carbon build-up on intake valve stems. This might be unique to the "S" version, but worth checking. A little build-up is normal. Maybe compare yours to other threads on this forum --- there's lots of pics showing excess build-up.

Then there's spark plugs to change, fuel injectors and filters that get plugged, ignition coils that wear out, etc, etc.

If the engine was turned over with timing set at 180, maybe do a compression or leak down test to see if any damage was done.

Best of luck ---

 

Thanks so much, oldbrokenwind!

I don't know if he used the Bentley manual, but he definitely used the tensioner timing tool.

Spark plugs and coils were replaced when he did the timing chain, and I'll ask him about fuel injectors and filters. I'll mention the compression/leak down test, as well; I'm hoping the five miles or so we drove before realizing the timing problem didn't damage anything! ��

Is it odd that reattaching the Vanos that was unplugged (p0010 is gone, at least!) seemed to bring back the shuddering, spluttering idle issues that appeared to be solved with new camshaft sensors and the accidentally disconnected solenoid?

Again, many thanks. I drive it and worry; he fixes it.

 

I don'tknow if this helps at all, but I had an ongoing timing issue that we could not fix. Replaced every single part that had anything to do with the timing chain and VANOS, except... we finally pulled the intake VANOS gear and it was broken internally. The unit had tried to adjust the timing so far due to the slipped timing chain that the internal spring broke. As soon as it was pulled you could ell it was broken.

It was not cheap, but replacing it cured all of my timing woes...

It is this part: http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...FQcLaQodIdkPMQ

Picture attached.

 

Kind of a nuisance to check, but Scubus might be on to something.

Another thought --- one of the unique characteristics of the Mini computer is that it "learns" driving habits and engine performance. As a part deteriorates, the ECU recognizes it and makes appropriate compensation, as applicable. My own experience with this is when I have post-turbo hose leaks --- it continues to run, just lower performance, until it gets really bad and needs immediate repair. If I reset the ECU before repairing it, it won't even start. However, if I repair it ,THEN reset the ECU, all performance is back to normal --- the ECU "forgets" we even had a problem. So, my suggestion to your husband --- after each repair, reset the ECU. If your code reader doesn't have this capability, it can also be reset by disconnecting the battery for "a little while" --- quite frankly, I don't know how long, my code reader can clear it --- I've read about this trick on this forum. I'd guess that a couple minutes would be overkill.

 

I forgot about that. Even with the fix, I had to drive a little over 100 miles before the CEL would stay off and things "settled down" for lack of a better description. It didn't run bad belt it felt off until the CEL would stay off. I was told it was the ECU relearning things.

 

Hmmm ... He said he looked at the vanos sprocket when we pulled things for the timing chain and didn't see anything obviously wrong with it, so I *think* we can check that one off the list. He also cleared the codes every time we checked them and made a repair or an adjustment.

He tells me he didn't set the timing to 180, but instead put the pin tool in after locking the cams the first time we did the timing chain, and had to jiggle things a little to get the pin to go in. The second time we took it all apart, he did it in the correct order and adjusted the individual parts back to where they should be (my non-technical explanation; sorry).

No engine lights at the moment, occasional stall when we start its, so he had me drive it about five miles round trip to Walmart this morning. The car stalled and died while I was reversing out of the parking spot, then stalled a little and blew a huge cloud of white smoke while leaving a stoplight on the way home.

Still no engine lights.

The only other known issue with the car is my gas tank level not reading correctly.

Thanks for all the ideas so far!

 

White smoke often indicates coolant is being burned. A really clean spark plug, noticeably cleaner than the others, would indicate which cylinder was leaking. Might have a lower compression test reading too.

 

We're going to take it apart this morning and look at the timing bits again. We'll look at the spark plugs, too, but since they're all new with about ten miles on them, I'm not sure how that's going to pan out.

Since all of this has started happening *after* the timing chain change, I guess we should look there first.

Husband says he did *not* use the Bentley manual when changing out the chain, so I'm trying desperately to find one online so we can reference it this time. Anyone know of an online source that actually offers it?

I've only found click-bait options so far, and the info offered on the Bentley site doesn't include timing chain.

** Found a Haynes manual I can download; will this have the needed info? **

Thanks in advance for resources ... I really want to know we've done the work the right way (plus I don't know if I can get him to take it apart again after this). 😏

 

I'm told the Haynes manual doesn't have the tensioner tool info, so I've attached a pdf procedure explaining it. The rest of Haynes should be OK. Hope the attachment helps ---

I haven't heard of any downloadable source for Bentley. Let us know if you find one? There are "stretch" or "TTY" bolts used for timing chain gears, that are 1-time use and should be replaced. These are all ID'd in Bentley's manual, along with torque and tightening sequence specs --- hopefully in Haynes too.

 

Could be a High Pressure Fuel Pump issue?

Might be worth reading:
http://www.brrperformance.com/blog/?p=2420

Good luck, hope you find the issue soon. From experience I know this can be very frustrating. Hang in there!

 

Okay, thank you SO MUCH to everyone! I drove for 45 minutes tonight with no CELs, no stutters, no smoke, and eventually no worries ... best and quietest driving performance since we bought Georgina (she came with a St. George's Cross on top)!!

In another thread here, someone mentioned the correct tightening of the Vanos sprockets when changing out the timing chain. Apparently my husband had tightened them down way too tight when putting them back in, and tightening them to the correct Nm made all the difference in the world.

I'm so relieved and happy to have my car back!!

Thanks again!!
- Jenny