Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Issue with starting.

Old Aug 13, 2015 | 05:18 PM
  #1  
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Issue with starting.

Well, had the car about a month and it's been plagued with issues thus far but I'm beyond determined to get everything fixed. This started about a week ago.

Anyway, tl;dr, battery in the boot was flooded probably for over a month because I guess the dealership decided to wash the carpet? Sat half submerged and has been having issues when the terminal posts got sloshed.

Basically what happens is every time I go to turn the car on, lights come on but the airbag light is dulled and flickering a tad bit. Press in the clutch, go to engage the ignition, aaaaand a whole lot of nothing no clicking, or attempting to start, just dead still and silent.

After a 2-45 times of going from off to immediately on, off again, on again, it'll finally crank and bam! Instant startup, no hesitation. And then the windshield wipers kick on without actually turning them on and eventually stop, airbag light goes off as well after 5 minutes of driving.

Can't for the life of me figure it out and I'm terrible with electrical. Thought it was the starter but definitely is not.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2015 | 05:12 AM
  #2  
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News:
Today, as in 40 minutes ago, car wouldn't start yet again. Doing a popclutch didn't help at all, not a single crank or spark. So I was messing around and it seems like pumping the clutch several times with the ignition turned actually gets it going.

Airbag light still stays on for about 3 minutes, radio flickering between on off for 3 minutes, windshield wipers run about one cycle and it sprayed my arm with the headlight sprayer...

Tested it again at work, turned er' off for awhile. Had the key all the way turned and pumped the clutch 3 times when I went to start her, and bam. Ignition.

Still can't figure out if my battery is dead, and the alternator is attempting to recharge it while driving (which seems likely at this point due to being submerged in gross salty water for over a month or two) or if my coil/spark/wires need replaced... Possible misfire present between 2-3k rpms under load but no stored codes. I'm leaning towards the latter, and this car seemed to be badly beaten and has a huge lack of maintenance.
 

Last edited by Teh; Aug 14, 2015 at 05:54 AM.
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Old Aug 14, 2015 | 09:44 AM
  #3  
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Update 2:

Checked ignition coil, cylinder 4's prong was pretty corroded but unfortunately after cleaning, no change in behavior other than the "misfire" feeling disappeared and there's no rough idle intermittently anymore.. Still required to pump the clutch 1-3 times...

I've gotten about 5 "answers", 5 different places, and I still have no clue either

1: Ignition coil/plugs/wires
2: Battery is dead (which was tested, and it isn't)
3: Starter solenoid might be going
4: Clutch Switch... apparently?
5: Anti-theft system, FOB is dead.
 

Last edited by Teh; Aug 14, 2015 at 10:00 AM.
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Old Aug 14, 2015 | 08:30 PM
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The clutch safety switch operates a relay next to the main fuse box in the drivers foot well. If you are quiet, and have the key in (but engine not started) you should hear the relay click on and off as you push the clutch pedal down. Easy test...

Thought mine was going bad, but it wasn't, then suspected the ignition switch (nope) and finally tested the starter (bad solenoid).

Keep at it...

Clean all the electrical contacts you can. I use deoxit products - 100% for cleaning followed by deoxit shield for protection.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2015 | 06:29 AM
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So it's been about 11-12 days since this started out, and I'm still having the issue.
Replaced the battery for sh*ts and giggles, but that obviously didn't fix the problem.

Cleaned all contacts I could get to. Nothing changed. Cleaned everything I could think of. Clutch switch is good. Ignition is seemingly good?

People are now suggesting a BCM, clock spring, or loose/faulty wiring near the radiator or going to the radiator.

I'll check that out today. Mostly posting in case someone has a similar issue.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2015 | 07:59 AM
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I use one of these inexpensive cigarette-lighter voltmeters to help with problems like this. You can use a normal voltmeter, too. A scangage II will also report battery voltage and will read basic OBDII codes and clear them.

Amazon.com: INNOVA 3721 Battery and Charging System Monitor: Automotive Amazon.com: INNOVA 3721 Battery and Charging System Monitor: Automotive

You should see 12.6V or so with the key in and before you try starting it. Voltage will drop while you start, and then quickly should go back to the range of 13.7V while the alternator is charging.

One way or another measure these values and post them:

Battery voltage key in, before you crank:
Battery voltage after you start car and its been running for 1 minute or so:

Good luck.

What was the comment about sitting in salt water? Is it a flood car or are you referring to the water you found in the battery compartment? The positive battery cable in the battery compartment has several connections and active elements under plastic covers - have you inspected/dissassembled all that and cleaned the connections? (let it set for a few minutes after disconnecting the battery - one piece is the pyrotechnic battery disconnect and you want to make sure the safety system is completely safe before touching any of that).
 
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Old Aug 26, 2015 | 05:39 AM
  #7  
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Another update:

It's been pretty bad weather and I've been so overly busy with my newborn (well not yet) child on the way in a couple of days, and the problem is getting progressively worse it seems.

Hopped in the car, tried to start 'er for a solid 10 minute and finally got her to crank.
She ran like crap when she was idled... Weird part though? No airbag light, radio worked fine, no problems other than the rough idle?

And my car's key is absolutely beat at this point from all the constant twisting and hard grips...
Oh, and had to rip out the windshield wiper fuse because THAT was a PIA having the windshield wipers flop around every time the car started.

If one good thing could just happen for me, I'd be so glad.
I'll be ripping up wires all weekend, so here's to hoping.
Or, it could just be that my key fob is completely ruined and needs to be replaced, causing the immobilizer to kick in with my luck. [Not even sure if the 04's had immobilizers..]
But nothing is ever that easy.


Originally Posted by David.R53
What was the comment about sitting in salt water? Is it a flood car or are you referring to the water you found in the battery compartment? The positive battery cable in the battery compartment has several connections and active elements under plastic covers - have you inspected/dissassembled all that and cleaned the connections? (let it set for a few minutes after disconnecting the battery - one piece is the pyrotechnic battery disconnect and you want to make sure the safety system is completely safe before touching any of that).
I was originally referring to finding water in the back compartment. Bought the car in Virginia, near a beach. Salt water didn't really surprise me any.

I've disassembled the grounds/hots on a LOT of places in this car and cleared them of corrosion, and still nothing.

Sorry for the late response.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2015 | 06:28 AM
  #8  
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If it ran like crap: you probably have a check engine light on, which will be your first move to fixing the problem: identifying it. If you get it running and want to run to Philly, we'll do a quick scan for you.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2015 | 06:45 AM
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I wish it threw a code, my life would be easier but it didn't. Just a fairly rough idle. Sputtering-like.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2015 | 05:12 AM
  #10  
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Found the issue for those who have this issue in the future!
I took a gamble, bought the cheapest part that I thought may be causing the issue which was an ignition switch.

That's right, an ignition switch. After looking up on youtube ignition switch issues with BMW's (especially the early to late 90's), they matched up exactly to what problems I was having.

$68, 1 day shipping, and 20 minutes of my time. And viola, problem solved.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 02:59 PM
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Great detective work and fix! Maybe I should try that for my non-functioning rear wiper and f/r washers.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2018 | 02:59 PM
  #12  
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2004 R53 won't start

I have a 2004 R53, manual transmission. I drove it this morning to run errands. Came home and washed it. I then moved it to the shade to detail it. When I went to crank it again, NOTHING. I have power to the lights, radio, windows, everything, but it does not even begin to turn over, no clicking or anything. HELP!
 
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