Did an oil change today. While moving the coolant reservoir out of the way to get the oil filter housing, some coolant leaked out the hose joints and dripped into oil filter housing. (I've removed the cap and old oil filter at this point)

I did my best to soak up the coolant with shop paper towels, but I'm not sure any got in the engine. What the hell was BMW thinking with this design? This problem seems unavoidable, even in a shop with pros working on it.

What kind of damage can a bit of coolant in the engine cause? How can I prevent this in the future?

 

It happens when you move the line some coolant comes out on older lines, Looks like the gasket inside the connection or the play in the connection itself. When you set it back in place and it still leaks , the the line needs replaced.



Mentioned here in the DIY oil change process

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...l-video-3.html


N14 Engine Coolant Line R56-R59 Cooper S 2007-2010 / JCW 2009-2012 11537567849

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11537567849/




N18 Engine Coolant Line R56-R59 / R60 R61 2011+ JCW 2013+ 11537600674

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11537600674/



Don't know if that elbow end will fit both N14 and N18 from the N18 kit ?

 

It might just burn off. Just for a precaution, might be a good idea to run it for 20 minutes and then change the oil. Not sure what Mini you have, but take a look at these tech articles here for help on any future DIY work.

-Luccia

 

Thanks for the replies.

It only happens while I'm moving the reservoir. If I'm lucky, it stays out of the way while I work on the oil filter. Sometimes it's snaps back into place and when I move it out of the way again that's when coolant leaks.

 

It always happens when changing my oil in a MCS. I have a R59 but I don't think it matters. I just clean it up with paper towels. Then top off the antifreeze if needed. It has never been a problem. I have about 50,000 miles and has done this since the first oil change at 600 miles.

 

Most people twist the tank just at the right point that the connection of those two lets off the gasket and you get a couple drips If you put it back into place and it still drips after the the re-install of the tank from the oil change then you have an issues.

 

When I perform my oil change I usually get a few dips of coolant when moving the reservoir, after I use a bungee cord to hold reservoir it no longer drips once stationary. This doesn't sound like it's a big problem as many others have done this time and again without any coolant flowing out of the reservoir, freak accident. Your part seems like it needs replacement.

 

I have the common leaking connector at the bottom of the expansion tank so want to replace the joint. I have a 2007 R56 which looks like I need the complete hose assembly. I checked the part # for the expansion tank and it is the same for 2007 and 2011 so I assume the connector is the same. I am guessing I could get the hose for the 2011 R56 and just swap the elbow connector with the one on my car to save some money. Any reason why this would not work?

 

I can now confirm the elbow from the 2011+ coolant return line fits the 2007-2010 expansion tank so a dripping connector at the bottom of the expansion tank can be fixed for $30 less by swapping over the elbow joint from a 2011+ pipe.

 

+1 Thanks for the update, had a couple people said they did this , but did not post back up.

 

Just the info I was looking for!! Thanks so much.

Did you consider a slightly longer section of hose and a hose clamp?

 

I have an r56 2010s with the dreaded oil filter/cooler leak. Was told by 2 dealers $1000 to fix. Decided a pint of oil a week was a better installment plan on this problem after having had the "death rattle" last year and needing a $2500 timing chain repair (was blessed mine only jumped 3 teeth and died on the side of the road meaning only the chain and tensioner's needed replacement---not the head). So, everything was ok, and was able to live with the slight oil leak, until I moved to Florida, where its always hot, every red light is a 5 minute wait and the oil leak -for those who are unaware- is the worst you can have in that it drips onto the exhaust and causes a total embarrassing smokeshow at every traffic light.
So I went searching on the web. ...Youtube videos and lots of reading. I decided I would try the $60 silicone seal replenishing additive from Titan. I would still try this as the reviews are convincing and believable. Fully guaranteed, but $60 bucks is still $60 bucks (although less than $1000 for the repair.
During my research, it seemed the products that absolutely DID NOT work, were the "thickening motor honey" type stuff like Lucas and STP, etc. The Titan claimed to be water thin and a reconditioner of the dry seals. Compared to a dry sponge being re-hydrated, then expanding, thus stopping the leak.

So.... I searched a little further for products with a similar claim and found

NO LEAK ENGINE OIL TREATMENT

• Mfr. Model # 20401

I ordered it from Walmart for 5.99 plus 6.00 shipping and had it in two days. Put it in cold the next morning as instructed. It was thin which made me happy as it was not a thickener type solution. The bottle claims it's for rear main seals, but again for 12 bucks, it was worth a shot.

Had this smokeshow for a year now after using every other BS stopleak i could find.

Driven 50 miles.... LEAK. HAS. STOPPED. not slowed down.... S.T.O.P.P.E.D.

Replacing the gasket is the best solution if you have spare $1000 bills lying around. I dont.
NO LEAK worked!. I'll update if it comes back, but I truly believe after using everything else, that this stuff reconditioned the silicone gasket, and sealed the leak AND stopped my red light embarrassment. Try it if you want....it worked for me!!! :-)

 

That's interesting. Those products always struck me as BS and or dangerous. My car has had every leak available to the n14 engine. The one that surprised me most was the vacuum pump o-ring which was hard as a rock and brittle. If No Leak could fix that, I'd be amazed.

Congrats, I hope it holds. How many miles on your car?

 

Thanks. 107k. 2010 S Coupe 6 speed. I hope so too. It's my 3rd, and the first one I ever had the death rattle, and oil cooler leak. Hopefully the turbo oil leak is not around the corner, lol. I'm pleasantly surprised this has worked, and at this point recommend it. BTW i've only driven 50 easy miles since I put it in. It said 200 miles as most all of them do, but it's worked faster. Frankly I'm amazed. I just knew it wouldn't work, but it has. Prtior to this I would dangerously keep my oil level just above minimum because if it was completely full it leaked more. It's at full for the first time in a while and no leak.

 

 

Yes, I used stop leak branded stuff in the past a long time ago in my very early car days and it did not work.

 

I'm sure it depends on what type of seal you need to expand via the Stop Leak chemical and how big the gap is. Perhaps it works like a charm on the silicon-type (feels like silicon anyway) gaskets in the oil cooler housing.