Brake cost...

Called my MINI dealer in Albuquerque...said I have about 38k miles on my 2009 Cooper Hardtop, am due for service, and was wondering if he could give me an approximate $ figure of what to expect.

He said "$75 to $675, depending on whether it needs front brakes."

My jaw dropped.

I said "you mean a front brake service is SIX HUNDRED DOLLARS?"

He said..."yeah".

Good grief.

OK...is this normal?...do other dealers charge about the same? Or is that that the next closest MINI dealer to ABQ is several hundred miles away that drives up the "market" cost?

BMW dealers do service?

I live in Santa Fe where there is a BMW dealer, but no MINI dealer...I was in the BMW dealer with a friend a couple weeks ago, and the service guy said that getting BMW dealers to do MINI service is "in the works", but he had no idea when that might happen.

Anyone been successful going to a BMW dealer for service?

Thanks...

 

Minimum costs:
Front brake pads: $50 each set (one set per side)

Most likely additions:
Sensor: <$30 (single sensor)

Unlikely but possible expense:
Rotor: $60 each
Labor: (free if you do it yourself) guestimate ~$120/hr -- break job w/o cleaning is about a 2 hour job TOPS: front only should be about 30 minutes. If you're meticulous about cleaning add another half hour.

This does not include bleeding which generally you need not do it for a long while (and def. not at 38k unless you're running REALLY HARD). Any shop can do your breaks so if the BMW shop doesn't find a local reputable service center. If I were in the area, I'd be happy to do them for you, but I'm afraid that would be an 18 hour drive.

 

BMW delaers to not service MINI as a general rule. Is it in the works? A rumor since 2002.

There is NOTHING special about MINI disk brakes. Actually, I find them to be on the easy side to replace, some of my Hondas are harder.

Any decent brake place should be able to replace your pads with their stuff . . . things to remember:

- MINI rotors are soft and as such wear fast. They should not be 'resurfaced' or 'turned'

- I have gone two sets of pads to one set of rotors on both of my MINIs since 2002 - ALL STREET driving - but go thru MINI pads in 40,000 miles and my Miata was still on original pads at 125,000 miles

- I've never seen disk pads sold as one wheel only.... A set of pads is normallly for an axle. Rotors MIGHT be priced each ... it depends

- there is only one wear sensor per axle, and if the sensor did not trip, it can be re-used

 

Oops, you're right, I did say per side and not per axle.

 

I am looking at a quote for a front axle brake job (pads, rotors, brake wear sensor, etc...) from Mini of Austin for my daughter's mini (as an fyi, she lives in NM). $769.79...hand delivered to me with a straight & serious face by the service adviser after I had them fix the hpfp. He was kind enough to knock off a $6 misc. charge so there's that.

Since she is in Austin for the summer, I purchased the parts for under $200 (they wanted $491) & will do the brake job myself. First time doing so on a mini but quite a bit of experience on American & Japanese imports.

Will let you know my thoughts, how many busted knuckles I have, etc... after I'm done with it this weekend.

 

Just FYI: Rear brakes are different in the Mini's than other cars. Your normal brake spreader will not work. You'll need to (at least rent/buy) a proper brake spreader kit that not only pushes but turns for the rear brakes.

Otherwise, they are easier than my Challenger (maybe because they are smaller).

 

Thanks for the heads up! Luckily I don't plan on/need to do anything w/the rear brakes yet.

 

there is a very good DIY available here-on

it is for a GEN1 but the only dif' for a GEN2 is the socket needed for the caliber bolts

the MINI rear is not UNIQUE .... MANY cars use this (e-brake) system which is why the tool comes with a handful of adapter plates. YES, know it applies, but don't go nuts over it

 

My rear brakes needed replacing before my front brakes did.

 

I saw a decent set (I guess) of 4 pads with sensor for $74 on Tire Rack.

And actually, it's been so long since I let a shop do my brakes, I don't even know what the going rate is...$125 to $150?

Rotors are probably fine...I drive moderately aggressive.

I have done my own brakes several times (with other cars), so I feel confident doing the MINI...but...

One thing...you mention "cleaning"...are you talking about the piston? Cleaning/lubing the piston?

I once had a piston stick (one of two pads on a given wheel was MUCH more worn than the other wheel)...took it to the dealer, and he said the pistons need lubed when pads are changed...well...duh...I hadn't thought of that.

Do I have that right?

Thanks so much...

 

- there is only one wear sensor per axle, and if the sensor did not trip, it can be re-used

Ah ha...ONE sensor per axle...I guess that's why only one was shown in the picture of a set of 4 pads on Tirerack...I was wondering about that.

Thanks...

 

HOLY COW...more than what I was quoted??? That's unbelievable.

I mean, truly, how much business and/or good will are they gonna get with ABSURD prices like that?

Thanks for that info. I suppose I should now feel like the ABQ MINI dealer is a bargain at $600...but ah, NO, I don't.

And yeah, I will be doing like you...doing my own brakes, when the time comes.

Geez...maybe I ought to rent a billboard near the MINI dealer quoting maybe HALF price for doing MINI brakes...two brake jobs a month would more than make my car payment.

 

By "brake spreader", do you mean pushing the piston back in to make room for the new/thicker pads?

I always use a C-clamp...you are saying that won't work on the rear brakes?

Thanks...

 

OK...

Answered my own question about the brake spreader for the rear (push AND turn to retract the piston):


And...

Found this for the front...like I said, I always used a c-clamp, but this is a cheap tool that looks like it works very nicely:

 

MINI rears must be turned while they are pushed back .... this is how the e-brake system works. You CAN do it with needle nose and a strong grip or with a special tool

Harbor Freight has a kit and many chain part stores will lend/rent one

If you just push straight back you will screw things up . . . .

 

Q: Don't you have to crack the bleeder on the caliper before pushing the piston back in to let the brake fluid out at location? Always told it is a BIG NO-NO to push old brake fliud backwards through any anti-lock braking system. Plus, if the brake master was topped off as the pads wore down, it will overflow all over the place when you push the piston back in. It's possible that Mini's are different, but I doubt it...

Also, brake fluid replacement is normally on a time schedule, not a mileage schedule. Check your manual for that one.

If you are not confident in doing your own brakes, then I highly recommend having a professional do it. Just my 2-cents. Cheers!

FYI: My dealer told me a complete front and rear brake job was $1,800 when I bought mine (all rotors and pads are always replaced at the dealer). The first one is included in the new car 3 (or 4?) year plan, but you are on your own for the second one. That was their big sales pitch for getting the extended maintenance program.

 

Interesting...I hadn't heard that about not pushing brake fluid back thru an ABS system.

Well...all I can say is I have done it several times to apparently no ill effect (non MINI vehicles).

And yes, if a person has topped off the brake fluid as the brake pads wear, then the reservoir might very well overflow when the pistons are pushed back in...sometimes I use a turkey baster to suck an ounce or two of brake fluid out of the reservoir if it looks like it will go above the "full" line...on the other hand, if the brake system is not leaking, then "topping off" should not be necessary between pad changes, so overflow should not normally be an issue.

Also, you need to push the caliper in sorta slowly, as I have seen a stream of brake fluid squirt up and out of the reservoir if the piston gets pushed in too quickly....don't know if that would happen on a MINI.

And...

$1800!

Wow...a mortgage payment to get your brakes done!

 

Bought my own Front Brake Pads and Rotors, dealer charged me for Sensors and $150 for install!! Rears will be getting done in October, same setup and will have Dealer install!!

 

I am a automotive repairer and yes you must not push the fluid back through the ABS system. i have had many customers over the years get away with it many times till the one time it costs them 2k to replace the abs module. dont risk it because your too lazy to put a bleeder on the end.

 

OK...wow...never knew that damage might occur...(nothing to do with lazy...)

Thanks...

 

Just so both sides of the argument are represented, and so folks who might be reading this thread get the whole picture, I came across this explanation (below) in another forum.

What the guy says about the ABS system being "two way" does make sense, otherwise, how would brake pressure be relieved after a person applies the brake even one time?

I mean, I still think to be 100% safe (since there is some controversy over this), the bleeder valve probably should be opened while compressing the piston, but, well, anyway, here is the other side of the story...and we also have to remember that perhaps all ABS systems do NOT work the same way (emphasis mine)...

"The abs is actually a 2 way system. In normal braking, fluid is pushed by the master cylinder (about 1200 psi) through the lines to the abs box then through the lines to the calipers. When you release the brake pedal, the 1200 psi bleeds back through the lines going through both the abs sensor and the master cylinder. If the pressure did not bleed off then the brakes would be constantly engaged which can happen if you have a pinched line

With hard braking (brake lock-up) or low traction (snow or ice), when the wheels lock up the abs box acts as a hydraulic pump. The pressure hold solenoid valve in the abs box closes and the pressure release solenoid valve opens routing the fluid to the ABS pump which then sends it back to the master cylinder. This is what causes the brake pedal to push back against your foot.

So with all of this, using a c-clamp or a piston tool to push the piston back will NOT hurt the abs system."

 

I use a smartphone app, "RepairPal" as a sort of reasonableness test of repair costs. They claim to maintain a database of such, by location. In this case, it was quoting $400-600, roughly, so that's ballpark for what you were quoted.

Others have walked through the parts (set of pads, a sensor, set of rotors) and labor costs. I'm planning on doing my own, when it comes to it, but it appears it's wise to shop around, based on this thread.

 

Yes doing it yourself is cheaper and pretty easy. My Mini dealer makes me go to the BMW dealership across the street to get work done.

 

I am in need of an rear brake change and I have neither the tools or space DIY. lol

However, I did my research and for the rear parts only rough estimate $230 (OEM sensor, rotors, and pads). The mechanic I go to great professional guy estimated $270. My questions is do I need to bleed the brake liquid for rear? (I've changed my front brakes about a little over an year ago)

Your advice is greatly appreciated!

 

All well and good, but the reason for braking the bleeder valve AT THE CALIPER while compressing the piston is so that the OLD DIRTY BRAKE FLUID THERE does not go back into the ABS system. It's the old dirty brake fluid that can damage the ABS. Lots of calipers collect the ugly stuff!

Using a C-Clamp or a piston tool to push the "piston" back into new pad position is just fine (basically required), but the fluid from the caliper should exit the bleeder valve at the caliper, not travel back through the brake line.

Do as you wish folks. I'd recommend discussing this with a professional. You can still do your brakes by yourself very easily. It isn't really that much more work to open the bleeder valve, just another step in the process...

Two more cents worth.

PS: My 2012 Mini Cooper Service & Warranty Information booklet that came with the car states, "Brake Fuild Service: Change brake fluid EVERY TWO YEARS, or when specified by CBS. The ventilation system microfilter is also changed at the same time."