I'm in need of a new belt tensioner for my '06 R53.
I've found a few options online...
penskeparts.com
OEM belt tensioner for $257 (at this time) - part # 11287509476

Google for the LUK belt tensioner
part # is BMW026221 - Cheapest I found was $93 (at this time)

Has anybody used the LUK brand tensioner?
I imagine the quality can't quite be up to OEM but I'm wondering if it's crap or not. I guess for an extra $20 it would be good to get the tensioner stop (Alta makes one) that would keep it from catastrophically failing. Installing that while replacing wouldn't be difficult.

 

This is what I did:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...2D%30%38%29%20

and then I bought and installed these too:

http://www.waymotorworks.com/powerfl...e-bushing.html

Works like a charm. And I also have an Alta tensioner stop.

 

I've bought three over the years from different sources. The Gates purchase online for $90 most recently. To be honest, when you line them up and study them, they are all made by the same manufacturer, just priced differently at outlets/sources.

 

Any thoughts about longevity of the brands? I got a Gates last year and it's bouncing already, even though the shock absorber looks identical to the OEM one I took off.

I'm considering this Alta rigid tensioner stop. Does anyone have any thoughts or experience on this one?

http://www.altaperformance.com/p/254

 

I have not tried it, but it looks like a great idea. I'd like to know if the length is preset or if length adjustments are provided. You can bet that there will be some that will adjust it too long and stretch/break the belt.

 

I personally have that Alta Tensioner Stiffy on my R53. Going on 4 months and 4,000 miles. No problems whatsoever. And yes, it is adjustable. Install was easy, less than an hour by myself.

 

Have you tried the Litens brand? Not only is it cheaper, but the part is an exact replacement and they're an OEM supplier for BMW.

 

I ordered mine as a Gates about two years ago. The box said Gates, but the metal casting was marked with Litton or something like that. About $85 at the time. Still going strong.

 

I ordered one of the Alta replacements. We'll see how it goes. It is adjustable. The risk of overtightening is not belt breakage. The risk is bearing damage.

 

You should be ok w/ the Alta stiffy upgrade. The damper, bushes are the weak points of the self adjusting OEM tensioner.

 

I do not recommend using the alta tensioner rod. They call it a damper but it's the same as an adjustable end link. It does NO dampening. The tensioner was designed for a damper for a reason and you won't have the correct belt tension with a link that has no give.

We did make our own WMW delrin damper bushings due to the others we've seen fail.

 

Bushings are good, but how to deal with dampeners that fail every year?

 

Way, is there any option to replace the worn dampener strut itself? That is the part that is failing for me.

 

Yeah, I understand. Just like the lousy OEM harmonic damper, what I'm wishing is for a more durable strut. Old school tensioners were manually adjustable & never seemed to harm anything long term. This shouldn't be like replacing a harmonic damper w/ a solid pulley. The only drawback is having to manually adjust when you get belt squeal or slip. Advantages? No fear of effects snapped belts, worn bushings,+ they're practically a cheap lifetime part.

 

ALTA's adjustable tensioner essentially converts an automatic tensioner with damper to a manual tensioner with no damper. In fact, you can do away with the coil spring.

 

Keep a close eye on the manual adjuster.

In the old days with V-Belts the adjustment was always manual, but I think it is easier to throw a serpentine belt since it doesn't ride deep in a V so I would check the tension very frequently.

 

ive also recently picked up one of the alta adjustable tensioner stops. going to be putting it in when i replace the crank pulley. i purchased the 2% overdrive ati super damper pulley. my main hope for this alta tensioner stop, is that this $425 pulley will be protected in the event of belt failure. im not sure what the negative effects of this alta tensioner stop will be, but if anyone cares to explain in a little bit of detail, id appreciate it. it seems like a decent idea to me as long as it is adjusted to the correct length.

 

Under varying loads in a forced induction engine, the belt(w/ its elasticity) behaves variably,too. The stock tensioner adjusts to these by itself, making sure you'll have compensating tension all the time. This eliminates the need to adjust your tension once the belt slacks over time.

Theoretically with the Alta Adjustable, you will need to initially calibrate an ideal constant applied tension, readjust 'periodically' to make sure you won't have squealing & slipping. This may not be ideal if you track your R53 as you'll be exposing the belt to a wide rev range. Generally & presumably, the Alta should be good for 'regular', less aggressive city/highway driving behavior. We don't have enough data to extract a realistic average adjustment interval yet. This thread below has some user reviews on it.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...testers-4.html

The Alta eliminates the need for a tensioner tool, but releasing tension won't be as convenient as the OEM & that tool. It also gives you peace of mind on the collateral damage from snapped belts. Neither would you have damper & bushings to replace anymore.

There are pros & cons to both, hence the 'controversy'. Long term tests shouldn't hurt, unlike the case of harmonic damper vs solid. Definitely we should go w/ the former on that.

I'm curious myself & would be a willing tester as soon as mine arrives. Alta site seems to have run outa stock. We'll see.

 

thank you minsanity. i understand now. i dont track my r53, but i do like to frequently pretend that highway on-ramps are 1/4 miles haha. i also just purchased that tensioner tool. i like the idea of being able to adjust the tension, but after reading all this, im a bit hesitant to put this thing on there. i guess i'm just guna have to do it and see what happens, like you said. i think for me, the big one that takes the cake, is that id rather replace a tensioner stop and a belt, than a $425 pulley. thanks again for the info.

 

No problem jown, that's what we're all here for, right? To fuel our passion & to hopefully get these cars live forever!

 

minsanity. im in the process of installing my new crank pulley. ive got the old one off. the new one is ready to go on. i just installed the alta tensioner stop. i am now extremely confused as to how im going to move the tensioner assembly out of the way to fit the new crank pulley, since the oem tensioner tool seems to be useless. do i really have to unbolt the alta tensioner stop, raise the tensioner, and fit the pulley, and lower the tensioner, and re bolt the alta stop? or am i missing something?

 

You got it.

 

finally all put back together and running correctly. what a relief it is. :] thanks all.

 

Sorry to have missed your post jown. Just checked in. By now, you must've known that crank pulley is accessed by removing the passenger wheel well. How's the 17% S/C & 2% overdrive crank combo? Post dyno results should you get one, okay?

 

yeah everythings all bak together and well. ive got a few more little things to do, and dont really take the car out during the winter months, but ill def post some results when i get them.