Have any of you had any issues successfully replacing your R56 battery? I've been going through a HUGE battle with MINI over repair of my car's engine, and they now tell me the battery is junk....and they want $312 to replace! When I questioned the price, I was told a 1.5 hour program must run on the ECM (?) to tell the computer that a new battery is in place, which effectively affects the alternator's output? When I asked the dealer about warranty on my existing battery, they said it wasn't worht pursuing, as MINI won't back them (argh!). Have any of you replaced the battery on your own MINIs without such a program being run? Have you had any problems? After all of the problems I've had with this car, I don't want to have another problem, now with the battery. Any advice? Thanks!

 

I was worried about bringing mine in when my battery went kaput. I searched the forum here and found others changing their own without a problem so I gave it a try and no problems since. I didn't have to do any re-programming. I only had to set the clock. Radio and car settings stayed. Good luck.

 

MiniBOL: Where did you find your battery and what "group number" was it? Thanks in advance.

 

on a related note: How does one even remove the batt in an r56? i dont need to yet, but i was wondering..searched and cant find a how-to, im sure its here somewhere.

 

Man, I have heard some BS stories in my life that a dealer will tell...but this is one of the worst I've heard.

They're sophisticated cars, like so many others built today, but it's not that sophisticated. The car doesn't care if it's got a new battery or not, and the alternator output isn't going to change. A 12v battery is still a 12v battery...only variables are capacities in Ah, CAs and CCAs...

So I'm raising the BS flag....

Go down and get yourself an H5 (BCI Group 47) class battery, any Auto Zone or Advance Auto will carry one. The battery in there now isn't made by MINI, its an Excide (or comparable) with MINIs name on it.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...07-mini-s.html

 

thanks!

 

Ditto - a battery is a battery, but some dealers are stealers.

 

Even this short write up makes it sound more complicated than it is. Once you start popping it off, you'll see what I mean. Most difficult part is the wiper arm(s)....and that's not tough at all.

 

THERE IS a procedure that is supposed to be done on the computer system when a battery is replaced and it DOES affect the way the car sees the battery. No it does not take 1.5 hours only about 5 minutes.

So for those who think this is BS well it is not totally

Here is the wording straight out of the Wiring Diagram Service from BMW/MINI

Registering the battery replacement

Why register the battery replacement?
After fitting a new battery, the service function 'Register battery replacement' should be run. Registration of the battery replacement is necessary to notify the power management (software in the engine electronics and intelligent battery sensor) that a new battery has been fitted in the vehicle.
Without registration of the battery replacement, the power management does not run properly and this can lead to function limitations, for example reduction or deactivation of individual consumer units.
Register battery replacement
This function informs the power management in the DME/DDE of a battery replacement. The following operations are performed:

• The current kilometre reading is stored for the battery replacement.
• The stored measured values (battery charge statuses, current, voltage, temperature, etc.) are deleted.
• The power management is initialised.

Replacing the battery: other battery capacity or AGM battery
As the battery depends on the engine ands options fitted, the following information is coded in the CAS:

• Battery capacity (for example 90 Ah)
• Battery type: AGM battery or lead-acid battery.

In the case of battery replacement, in general the battery capacity used as series standard may be used.
On installation of a battery with higher or lower capacity or installation of an AGM battery, Progman must be used to recode the CAS:

• With Progman, run the retrofit ”Battery” (select battery capacity of the fitted battery).
• Register additional battery replacements with this service function.

Battery: battery capacity and battery type
The battery capacity can be read from the label with the technical data. The other label contains safety instructions.
AGM batteries can be recognised by the black battery housing. The cycle-proof AGM batteries are used for especially heavy loads on the vehicle network depending on equipment and requirements.

 

Well there's a first, but thanks for the insight....but I still think it's BS (JMHO). All it's doing is telling the car the battery capacity changed, if you went with a different battery. And I'll presume it's so the car can disable a thing or two if the capacity is too low, maybe?. It still has nothing to do with alternator output. And I still doubt this even, considering a car, when running, runs on the alternator not the battery.

And if I read this correctly, this is only if a battery of higher or lower Ah, and/or type. If you picked up a battery over the counter, same type and capacity...then this is a moot point.

If I actually needed a battery right now, I'd be willing to bet I could drop a battery in of the same class, with the same or higher capacity...and never miss a beat. But it's just my opinion and has no real time proof.

At RealOEM, an original spec MINI battery is $183....$129 less than quoted in the first post. That's a straight drop-in made by Excide, so the car would know no difference.

 

IF you really read what it says the car computer keeps records of the "current (as in time not amperage)" charge state, voltage, amperage draw, and temperature. This is used by the computer to turn off certian functions of the car that are deemed non-esential under certian circumstances.

True to some extent but the car can draw more current than the alternator puts our if "everything" is running all at one time.

See above comment.

Not really as stated before the computer keeps track of the battery status. After some time a battery does not hold voltage or charge as well and these affect the way the computer runs so a new battery of the same type will have different (better) characteristics

This is possible but it is definitely recommended to run this procedure.

And you can get the same battery or better for probably much less as a local auto parts store.

 

Most helpful.....Thanks!

 

Schatzy, you're 100% correct on everything you said. Which lends even more credence to the fact the car is monitoring it's draw, not the type of battery.

When I need a battery, I'll still get mine locally. I can understand a 5 minute reset, probably as simple as a TPMS reset...but still don't buy the 1.5 hour ECM programming.

Nor would I ever pay over $300 for a battery that is mediocre at best.

 

I had my battery replaced under warranty and they did it outside the shop in less than 10 minutes and that included the service write up time and install and reset. Don't remember how they did it but there was no machine hooked up to it.

And yes they way over charge for the battery at a dealership. But one thing people need to remember is that they MUST buy one with a drain/vent tube. if they do not then the off gassing of the battery will enter the cars cabin as it sits right in the direct path of the cabin air intake.

 

Damn. Hope my battery doesn't go out

 

What if a guy used a 9V battery (the little rectangular ones you put in smoke detectors) and connected leads to the battery cables prior to disconnecting them from the old battery. Wouldn't the 9V provide enough power to the computer so it doesn't even know the battery is being changed? If the MINI battery is nothing but a different color Exide then the computer would be a happy camper once the new battery was installed and the 9V leads removed right? My battery is acting up on my '07 MCS so I am interested in what the NAM community thinks of this idea......Thanks in advance, Mike

 

Will not work.

 

I don't understand what the big deal is, I went to my local NAPA and told them I needed a battery for my 2008 Mini and they gave me a Legend 75, part # Bat-7547 for $108. I replaced it myself and didn't have to do anything, didn't even loose any of the radio presets. It comes complete with a vent tube just like the OEM battery.

 

And was that a Hawaiian part price? It may be less expensive on mainland US.

 

Yeah, that was a Hawaiian price after giving them the old battery.

 

You can go to NAPA online https://www.napaonline.com/ and find it for your specific year and local store.

 

AAA came out and replaced the battery in our '08 Cooper. They had the right size with the vent tube. No issues!

 

Follow up on replacing the battery in my '07 MCS. I tried the idea I threw out there of using a 9 volt battery connected to the battery leads while the old battery was disconnected. Perhaps I'm making more out of this than is warranted but no mileage, distance to service, radio presets, window functions etc. were lost in the battery change out as discussed in the new Bentley manual. I don't know if this didn't work as stated by PatM or if it just isn't an issue as suggested by Benibiker....got a Bosch Group 47 battery from Pep Boys for $107.99 then applied a 10% coupon so got out of there for a C note, 36 mo free replacement, 96 mo prorated warranty. Battery manufactured by Exide which is supposedly the OEM battery manufacturer. All's well that ends well.

 

Well done!