r56 Battery Replacement Help
i'm looking to get my battery replaced pretty soon. i've been suffering some really crappy start ups in the morning. its takes way longer than it should to cold crank the car recently. so i think the battery is going (same battery since i picked it up from the dealer ship in 2008). i decided to go with the Bosch battery at my local Pep Boys. but the only thing i'm not sure about is the venting. i've never had to deal with venting a car battery before.
I believe MINI uses AGM batteries (for all models), which are sealed and not flooded or vented. The DME needs to register the battery change, as it controls the charging based on the installed battery type, size and age.
This is required as the battery in the R56/55/57 sits right in front of the fresh air intake for the cabin.
My car sits for a couple of weeks at a time without being started. Today, after three weeks in the garage, the battery gave up.
I went to Pep Boys to buy their Bosch 47-600b battery, which they say, and has been mentioned here, as a direct replacement.
Their group 47 battery was smaller in size than the MINI battery. A group 48 is an exact match in size, post positions and venting. $113 plus $12 core. Took about 10 minutes for me to reinstall.
I went to Pep Boys to buy their Bosch 47-600b battery, which they say, and has been mentioned here, as a direct replacement.
Their group 47 battery was smaller in size than the MINI battery. A group 48 is an exact match in size, post positions and venting. $113 plus $12 core. Took about 10 minutes for me to reinstall.
Autozone has a perfect fit battery for the 2009 Mini Clubman S
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...2330_401065_0_
I replaced myself in about 15 minutes and absolutely no issues, all you need is a 10mm wrench and 10mm socket. IMHO, the procedure to "Program" the battery is complete nonsense. This is a complete consumer ripoff as this procedure could easily be instrumented to run on-board automatically whenever complete voltage loss and restore is detected. The local dealer tried to charge me nearly $200 for labor and programming for a freakin battery exchange
+ another $160+ for the battery.
OMG , I love the MINI car but that is pure ripoff job by the MINI organization.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...2330_401065_0_
I replaced myself in about 15 minutes and absolutely no issues, all you need is a 10mm wrench and 10mm socket. IMHO, the procedure to "Program" the battery is complete nonsense. This is a complete consumer ripoff as this procedure could easily be instrumented to run on-board automatically whenever complete voltage loss and restore is detected. The local dealer tried to charge me nearly $200 for labor and programming for a freakin battery exchange

+ another $160+ for the battery.
OMG , I love the MINI car but that is pure ripoff job by the MINI organization.
I have read Schatzy post a few times:
Registering the battery replacement
Why register the battery replacement?
After fitting a new battery, the service function 'Register battery replacement' should be run. Registration of the battery replacement is necessary to notify the power management (software in the engine electronics and intelligent battery sensor) that a new battery has been fitted in the vehicle.
Without registration of the battery replacement, the power management does not run properly and this can lead to function limitations, for example reduction or deactivation of individual consumer units.
Register battery replacement
This function informs the power management in the DME/DDE of a battery replacement. The following operations are performed:
As the battery depends on the engine ands options fitted, the following information is coded in the CAS:
On installation of a battery with higher or lower capacity or installation of an AGM battery, Progman must be used to recode the CAS:
OK, if the power management really deactivates non essential functions the older the battery gets, wouldn't a new battery last even longer if those functions stay deactivated with the new battery in place? With my battery going south in 3 years I do not see any appreciable extension in the battery life from this management system. I think I will take my chances and just change the battery. Those who have a battery going south with less than 50k miles go see the dealer ASAP. If you are under warranty they should replace the battery. (I have 51k miles so I am out of luck but my dealer told me if I had under 50k they would have replaced it under warranty.)
I'm thinking of going with an optima red top since it is sealed and does not need a vent tube. I know lots of r53s have had good luck with them. If any R56 owners have tried the optima red top I would like to hear your feedback. (especially what size you used since there is no official Mini fittment). Second choice is the deep cycle diehard.
Registering the battery replacement
Why register the battery replacement?
After fitting a new battery, the service function 'Register battery replacement' should be run. Registration of the battery replacement is necessary to notify the power management (software in the engine electronics and intelligent battery sensor) that a new battery has been fitted in the vehicle.
Without registration of the battery replacement, the power management does not run properly and this can lead to function limitations, for example reduction or deactivation of individual consumer units.
Register battery replacement
This function informs the power management in the DME/DDE of a battery replacement. The following operations are performed:
- The current kilometre reading is stored for the battery replacement.
- The stored measured values (battery charge statuses, current, voltage, temperature, etc.) are deleted.
- The power management is initialised.
As the battery depends on the engine ands options fitted, the following information is coded in the CAS:
- Battery capacity (for example 90 Ah)
- Battery type: AGM battery or lead-acid battery.
On installation of a battery with higher or lower capacity or installation of an AGM battery, Progman must be used to recode the CAS:
- With Progman, run the retrofit ”Battery” (select battery capacity of the fitted battery).
- Register additional battery replacements with this service function.
OK, if the power management really deactivates non essential functions the older the battery gets, wouldn't a new battery last even longer if those functions stay deactivated with the new battery in place? With my battery going south in 3 years I do not see any appreciable extension in the battery life from this management system. I think I will take my chances and just change the battery. Those who have a battery going south with less than 50k miles go see the dealer ASAP. If you are under warranty they should replace the battery. (I have 51k miles so I am out of luck but my dealer told me if I had under 50k they would have replaced it under warranty.)
I'm thinking of going with an optima red top since it is sealed and does not need a vent tube. I know lots of r53s have had good luck with them. If any R56 owners have tried the optima red top I would like to hear your feedback. (especially what size you used since there is no official Mini fittment). Second choice is the deep cycle diehard.
Last edited by smoke05S; Jul 20, 2013 at 08:48 PM.
Do you know if you have the IBS? Open the cover for the battery and look at the negative cable. If you have it, there is a component on the negative cable right at the battery terminal. Not all of them have it, I don't. If you dont have it, I don't think there is anything to reset
Replaced at 52000 miles
My 2010 MCS battery died 6 months later after replacement at the dealer. I watched the dealer replace it and they did no reprogramming, so when the piece of crap stock replacement battery failed I bought a group 48 battery from Carquest, Gold 84 month warranty. Bought there as the Gold batteries they sell have a first three year replacement with no cost or pro-rate. I installed myself, it has vent which was cake to hook up. More cold crank amps. 740 compared to 480 for the stock battery. No problems. Whether I will have reprogramming done if required, I might mention when I have inspection II done at the dealer.
As an aside I have read all the horror stories about timing chain problems and the biggest thing you can do to prevent this is change oil every 5k or less...religiously. I checked my chain by pulling the valve cover and everything is perfect at 50k miles. Did that when I changed spark plugs for the second time. synthetic oil gets dirty and contaminated after 3000 miles with any engine and the Prince engine is a highly stressed close tolerance engine...ain't no Chevy or Ford. Varnishes and other contaminates from combustion blow by stick to the surface of the metal parts and can really mess up close tolerance engines, so change the oil and don't believe the 15000 mile claims Mini puts out. The contaminates come from the blow by through the piston rings from burned and unburned gasoline and its reaction with the heat and oil formulation used, even the synthetics. Current oil filter technology does not address liquid or gaseous contaminates other than particulates, and Mini is using ancient oil filter technology. Enough said
As an aside I have read all the horror stories about timing chain problems and the biggest thing you can do to prevent this is change oil every 5k or less...religiously. I checked my chain by pulling the valve cover and everything is perfect at 50k miles. Did that when I changed spark plugs for the second time. synthetic oil gets dirty and contaminated after 3000 miles with any engine and the Prince engine is a highly stressed close tolerance engine...ain't no Chevy or Ford. Varnishes and other contaminates from combustion blow by stick to the surface of the metal parts and can really mess up close tolerance engines, so change the oil and don't believe the 15000 mile claims Mini puts out. The contaminates come from the blow by through the piston rings from burned and unburned gasoline and its reaction with the heat and oil formulation used, even the synthetics. Current oil filter technology does not address liquid or gaseous contaminates other than particulates, and Mini is using ancient oil filter technology. Enough said
My 2008 MCS has 38,000 miles and the battery just died. Am I covered? 
Anyways, Is there a list of brand and models that will fit?
So far from what I have gathered are the following:
H5 (BCI Group 47)
Bosch 47-600b
Legend BAT 7547
Braille B2015
Found this nice guide to remove and install the battery.

Anyways, Is there a list of brand and models that will fit?
So far from what I have gathered are the following:
H5 (BCI Group 47)
Bosch 47-600b
Legend BAT 7547
Braille B2015
Found this nice guide to remove and install the battery.
Last edited by Papote; Oct 23, 2013 at 08:28 AM.
Just had PepBoys put a Bosch battery in for me on my 2008 Justa with 44k miles, $178 including installation, fancy felt and goop on the terminals - with tax. They used a "battery-minder", no settings or clock time lost. They used a vented battery, H5/L2/47 Part # H5-650B
My 2008 MCS has 38,000 miles and the battery just died. Am I covered? 
Anyways, Is there a list of brand and models that will fit?
So far from what I have gathered are the following:
H5 (BCI Group 47)
Bosch 47-600b
Legend BAT 7547
Braille B2015
Found this nice guide to remove and install the battery.

Anyways, Is there a list of brand and models that will fit?
So far from what I have gathered are the following:
H5 (BCI Group 47)
Bosch 47-600b
Legend BAT 7547
Braille B2015
Found this nice guide to remove and install the battery.
Hey guys, recently I've been having to press the start button 2-3 times to get the car started but there was never an actual struggle to start until today so I'm thinking its the battery. 11' R56 with 60K~ miles. Anyone else experience something similar?
I too am curious what the overall most popular replacement battery is.
I too am curious what the overall most popular replacement battery is.
In my case, I had noticed sluggish starting (taking a bit longer to start than usual. I would press the start button just once, though. Two days ago, I tried to start and it just clicked. I plugged in my Battery Booster and it started immediately. It hasn't happened again, but I have the booster in the trunk just in case.
In my case, I had noticed sluggish starting (taking a bit longer to start than usual. I would press the start button just once, though. Two days ago, I tried to start and it just clicked. I plugged in my Battery Booster and it started immediately. It hasn't happened again, but I have the booster in the trunk just in case.
I've got a PC925 but Rennline also makes a PC680 kit.
I have not had good luck with dry cell batteries on the street; the track of course it can save you many pounds - 40lbs on the Mini and that is weight that is up high above the center of gravity. But I have power windows, sunroof, A/C heat fans etc, and those dry cells just don't hold a lot of reserve juice. Rennline also advises against street use on the PC680. It would remind me of the oldest VW's I had, the 6volts, on a rainy night trying to choose which accessory to use - wipers or headlights? Because you couldn't have both at the same time for about 10 minutes after starting on a cold engine.
Our temperature around here ranges from 15F to 125F and a dry cell would leave you stranded too often to seriously consider. IMO...
Our temperature around here ranges from 15F to 125F and a dry cell would leave you stranded too often to seriously consider. IMO...
In my case, I had noticed sluggish starting (taking a bit longer to start than usual. I would press the start button just once, though. Two days ago, I tried to start and it just clicked. I plugged in my Battery Booster and it started immediately. It hasn't happened again, but I have the booster in the trunk just in case.
I have not had good luck with dry cell batteries on the street; the track of course it can save you many pounds - 40lbs on the Mini and that is weight that is up high above the center of gravity. But I have power windows, sunroof, A/C heat fans etc, and those dry cells just don't hold a lot of reserve juice. Rennline also advises against street use on the PC680. It would remind me of the oldest VW's I had, the 6volts, on a rainy night trying to choose which accessory to use - wipers or headlights? Because you couldn't have both at the same time for about 10 minutes after starting on a cold engine.
Our temperature around here ranges from 15F to 125F and a dry cell would leave you stranded too often to seriously consider. IMO...
Our temperature around here ranges from 15F to 125F and a dry cell would leave you stranded too often to seriously consider. IMO...
And Rennline recommends this PC925 model for our cars, but not the PC680 for off track use. I think I will be happy with my Bosch, and if I get 2 years in this climate out of it that is all good. Almost no battery last three years in this heat no matter what you pay assuming you drive it everyday. Sure, I could find a battery that would mostly fit for under $100, Interstate for instance, should have something that would work with some bodging. And the Bosch won't last any longer for the extra money I'm sure but this is off my checklist for at least two years now.



